Leather Dyes How To Make- Aniline, Pro Dye? (Chemicals Msds)

[DavidL]

When I see leather from the tannery it looks to be a homemade blend composed of a few ingredients, so I'm looking for help from someone with knowledge of chemistry.

Do leather dyes need a binder to prevent dye bleed? I suppose heat setting could bind the finish to the leather, but thats not certain.

Fiebing PRO Oil dye

Diethylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether

Dipropylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether

Propylene Glycol Methyl Ether Ethanol
Isopropanol
Xylene

Ethyl Benzene
Ethyl Acetate
Cobalt and Chromium Complex

is any one of these chemicals a binder? What makes a leather dye hold (chemical or otherwise) and penetrate into leather. I would like to be able to make the dye water soluble (aniline powder) with the minimal amount of material and easy to source chemicals.

Edited February 21, 2015 by DavidL

[TwinOaks]

David, this is becoming ridiculous.

[DavidL]

I apologize if it comes off as ridiculous. I posted this in another leather forum dedicated to leather chemistry and put this on here just to see if any responses show up.

The dyes I have right now angelus and fiebings pro are far to expensive when bought in Canada so I'm looking for anyone who has made these dyes themselves..

A sort of simple solution like:

Water

Aniline powder

Plus chemical binder

[TwinOaks]

Not "binder"....Mordant

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mordant#Common_dye_mordants

[TexasJack]

None of the compounds you list are binders or mordants. Except for the metal complex, they are all solvents.

There are dyes that can be made at home (use google) but trying to duplicate a commercial dye is impossible. Trying to duplicate almost anything from an MSDS is also impossible, as the document is designed to list hazardous chemicals and safety instructions, not provide an accurate and complete formula or manufacturing sequence.

[TwinOaks]

I'd like to suggest re-checking some of your sources for products. I just pulled up Zelikovitz's website and compared prices with Tandy. Wow, it was a bit of a surprise that the same product from Zeli is about 20% LESS expensive....and that's for Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes. For the water based dye, which I presume is akin to the Pro Waterstain retail prices are closer, but Zeli sells in smaller bottles. For the same amount it's (Z) $13.98 for 8oz vs. (T)$15.99 for 8.5oz.

And since Zeli is already in Canada (Ottowa, Ontario), you don't have those pesky import tarrifs to deal with.

Now, since you've got the VAT, the prices actually come out about equal. The way to get the prices down is to become a business and buy at wholesale. "But that requires $$ for a business license, more accounting, quarterly taxes, yada, yada, yada...." What? You thought that becoming a manufacturer with a couple of hundred (thousand?) hides in the back yard, a warehouse full of chemical vats, and 55 gallon drums of homemade dye was going to be cheap???

I commend you for wanting to know how to do things yourself. I think knowledge is one of the most valuable/important things you can have. But you also need to know your own limitations.

[DavidL]

Thanks jack. Maybe the lack of a binder is why oil dye for me bleeds a LOT making it unusable for me regardless of how much I rub.

I for sure am not going to source the solvents though. My question was more of me spit balling a thought and seeing where it goes. I am looking into aniline dyes, semi aniline dyes and natural dyes and learning about the other few methods of dyes that are outlined in a book I'm reading.

Just for reference I recently stumbled on a potential mordant, copperas aka green vitriol aka ferrous sulfate. Source was from a old book on tanning. Used in inks and indigo dyes and very old methods of dye making.

The last time I checked prices from tandy was 40-50 for the larger bottle (I think it may be removed from the catalog), but tandy has been known to raise prices.. so I probably should have known.Next order will be zeli if I need pro dye.

The thought of 100 hides to manage is more of a goal (that I may or may not want to pursue depending on how well I can tan a single hide) than a reality as of right now in its beginning stages. I do have the tendency to go too fast at times.. so your comment is very valid.

A single hide (more likely a square foot at a time), natural tannins (powdered or bark) plus syntans (penetrating), lime, and other common organic material and tools plus a litre of dye is all thats needed right now. So around $500 plus shipping is a realistic cost analysis for testing. 1-2 years for development. In a barn it should be enough room to tan 100 hides comfortably , although these things are more apparent when its time to do it.

Edited February 22, 2015 by DavidL

[Hennessy]

i had a leather leather man around dallas tx show me how he dealt with oil dye n by golly i do it every time i can !when your ready to dye [esp black] first put a coat of lacquer down i wait a suitable time for dryin then apply dye ,dry .buff off virtually nothing then relaq. where possible n if in best interest i still can oil or dress from backside.i encourage people on here over n over n still haven't seen any other person talk about its success or negative i do it all th time .

[DavidL]

i had a leather leather man around dallas tx show me how he dealt with oil dye n by golly i do it every time i can !when your ready to dye [esp black] first put a coat of lacquer down i wait a suitable time for dryin then apply dye ,dry .buff off virtually nothing then relaq. where possible n if in best interest i still can oil or dress from backside.i encourage people on here over n over n still haven't seen any other person talk about its success or negative i do it all th time .

Thanks for sharing this. thats sounds like it should fix the issue of bleeding. So the lacquer/resolene before dyeing prevents the dye from over soaking the hide. Does it still penetrate the lacquer/resolene into the grain or stick onto the resolene to prevent the bleeding?

[club49]

I was hoping that Jack would give you an answer. I just purchased some Aniline dye from leather world. I can't wait to try it. I am also going to try Jacks suggestion. David, have you tried using the lacquer yet?