Arch Punches And Bag Punches... Sharpening

[rickmoo]

I've been wanting some good arch punches and won a set on ebay. i got a dozen Osborne punches in good shape. i use a 2 lb. plastic coated mallet, but they don't punch veg tan easily. also i paid a lot of $ for a 1 1/4 " Osborne bag punch and i had to dress the inside with a diamond file. the outside is curved inward too much. i bought this to make life easier , more precise and faster, but i'm a little disappointed after paying so much for it. anyone have or know a really good way to dress up these punches to get them to cut properly...

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Don't use a bench grinder as they are too fast, and can create too much heat if you are inexperienced.

The problem may also be in what you are punching on. I prefer end grain wood myself, as the plastic boards and such don't give me a clean cut.

The insides show old be a straight edge, no bevel. The outside edge is what gets sharpened. Depending on the hardness, a smooth file will can remove the chipped edges, then use a sharpening stone to smooth, and polish them up. Do not get the angle too steep/thin this will only cause the edges to chip, or dull faster.

Edited February 28, 2015 by BIGGUNDOCTOR

[rickmoo]

Thanks, i definately wouldn't use a grinder. i would dress it by hand with a file or various grits of paper then polish...the surface i use is and inch or so thick piece of granite, with a sort of hard piece of rubber on it. might be the rubber is the problem. i'll try a piece of wood instead. one would think that with what these tools cost they would be set up right. the arch punches are not new, but the bag punch is..... also a few of the arch punches have a slight flat spot as if had been if dropped. i was trying to think of something tapered i could drive in there it round them out.... any suggestions?

[Northmount]

Good old fashioned anvils had a nice conical point. You could slide it over something like that and gently tap and work on the dinged area.

There was another thread hear the past couple days bout sharpening drive punches, has some good ideas.

Also to help with both driving the punch through the leather, and for pulling it back out, lubricate the end of the punch with paraffin or bees wax. Just press it into the block of wax.

Tom

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

When using wood always use the end grain, not the cross.

Center, and other punches are tapered. I used one Friday at work to drift a hole out.

I wouldn't wax a punch as it will affect finishing the leather later.

[Northmount]

When using wood always use the end grain, not the cross.

Center, and other punches are tapered. I used one Friday at work to drift a hole out.

I wouldn't wax a punch as it will affect finishing the leather later.

Good point. Many posts here over the past have suggested wax. So to be on the safe side, save punching until after the finish has been applied. Better than having to use deglazer to clean up, or try to fix messed up dye or finish.

A little off topic, woodworkers use paraffin wax on machine surfaces to protect against rust and to help wood slide much more easily. They say it doesn't affect the application of finishes. But they get to sand the surface before applying stains and finishes. Can't sand that nice smooth leather surface!

Tom

[howie696]

I use these chopping boards they are all end grain and last for ages

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111235882616?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=410252003037&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[rickmoo]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions....