cutikatsam Report post Posted March 1, 2015 So I am almost in the market for a good leather sewing machine. I have read hours of posts from all of you wonderful people! I may be more lost now than I was. Any help would be great help. Here is what I need to do and maybe someone could tell me what I need to look for in a machine. 1) Relatively easy to use 2) Sew about 1/2" - 3/4" of leather occasionally but mostly 1/4" 3) Table big enough to unroll chaps or leather vests while sewing 4) Walking foot that actually works like a walking foot. 5) $1500 - $1800 or less preferred budget OK That is it. Is there an option for me????? For now I am struggling with hand stitching EVERYTHING. A 20 minute holster takes 3 1/2 hours to stitch which makes it not cost effective to sell anything. I do it though because I love it. My Jenome costume machine sews through pig and the likes but that's about it. I have been looking really hard at the Cobra Class 17 and the Highlead GC20618. I also really like the Cobra Class 4, I think but it is a little above budget and may put me back a couple of months or more. What do y'all think? Am I on the right track? Thanks everyone in advance for any input you may have! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rlpullman Report post Posted March 1, 2015 I use a Cobra Class 18 for all my flat work. it has been a good dependable machine. It is a compound feed machine. Although it won't do 1/2". It can take up to 138 thread top and bottom, but I primarily use 92 for most of my work. For chaps and vests it would work just fine. It is a couple hundred more than the class 17, but worth the extra. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CDragonworks Report post Posted March 1, 2015 If you have an industrial sewing machine place near you go check them out. One thing I will tell you is make sure whatever you get is easy to get the parts for if you need them. I have a 1951 Singer 111G156 and I use it so much I have had to replace the hook now about every 3-5 years due to plain old wear. Be sure you get a good manual that shows all the places you may need to adjust as if you have to haul it to a shop it becomes stupid expensive! We have to time mine from time to time but with the amount of sewing I do it is no wonder! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cutikatsam Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Thanks guys. I am actually going to check out the Highlead this weekend but I can't find a Cobra anywhere around me to check out! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jwalker Report post Posted March 4, 2015 i'm SOOOOOOOOOO glad i finally got me a Cobra class 4....its extremely versatile and user friendly....i still run mine at the slowest possible speed, cuz i aint no pro user by a long shot..however, the dvd that comes with the machine, and the customer service support from the entire manufacturer team has been nothing less than splendid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leathercraft209 Report post Posted March 4, 2015 If by holster you mean gun holster, then you might want to consider a machine that can use 207 to 346 thread. I looked into machines a few months ago. (bought an Artisan Toro 3200...similar to Cobra class 4) And one major thing was the flat bed machines max thread was usually 138 or 207 on top, and 138 bottom. This is fine for thin items, like wallets, cases, and purses. But, not really ideal, if you want to make holsters or anything heavy duty....Though, maybe its personal preference, I like using 277 thread for anything above 8-9oz leather. And use 277 - 138 for wallets. Also, as mentioned above, many flat bed machines won't clear 3/4"... some won't clear 1/2". The Cobra class 4 and Artisan toro 3200 have really great range of thread options and are more versatile (when I went to Artisan store, they had a 1in thick piece of leather in the machine for demo). But they definitely cost more than a flat bed machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ContactCement Report post Posted December 14, 2017 (edited) The Tipp man boss machine is the mechanical machine I will purchase someday for thicker projects. A few sewing machine dealers are jerks and charge too much for a re-painted obsolete sewing machines put together from junk yard parts. You get what you pay for. When the special parts you need has been unavailable or the last 90 years they will charge whatever they like. Then you can trade it in and they may give you if your lucky less than scrap metal price per pound for your machine. Edited December 14, 2017 by ContactCement Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerseyFirefighter Report post Posted December 14, 2017 I know budgets are a big PITA. Truth be told I blew mine out of the water and invested a good portion of personal finances toward my machine. That said it does return dividends in time and product. I went with the closest shop (philly) and despite not carrying cobra or cowboy, picked up a similar 441 clone. (ferdco) I went there to look at the highlead despite it being a bit more expensive. luckily they did not have any in stock. I can't stress how beneficial going to a good company locally could be like how others stressed to me. I was given a personal 3 hr crash course on the machine free of cost, and it help me beat any type of learning curve I would have to endure if a machine like this just arrived at my door step in a crate. Best of luck regardless on your decision. You will like only buy one (maybe two) of these in your lifetime. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ContactCement Report post Posted December 15, 2017 (edited) Bring sample fabric or leather with you for a demonstration. To prove the machine will indeed meet your needs. Small bobbins and needles turned me off delaying any industrial sewing machine purchase unless I were to learn upholstery repair. I almost rushed into buying the wrong machine and glad I didn't. Edited December 15, 2017 by ContactCement Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites