thejaxxxon Report post Posted March 2, 2015 These are my first tries at leatherwork. The first is for a CZ97b and the second is for a Ruger LC9 with laser. Need advice on how to go about darkening them without losing the strength and retention. This is the 97b, lined with deer skin. I haven't finished the edges yet, I am seeing if anything needs changed. LC9 thank you for your advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted March 2, 2015 A couple of things. It looks like you tried to mold them a bit. Stitch lines look like they need to be moved closer to the gun. The holster will loosen up pretty quickly with use. You said you want to darken the holsters without loosing retention. Did you wet mold them and then dry with a little heat. If you have a good firm holster you should be able to apply a light coat of Neats Foot oil, or Olive oil then lay in the sunn for a nice tan. Depending on how dark you want them you can dye them without any effect to the retention. A suggestion, I usually find it much easier to burnish the edges of the open toe and the mouth of the holster before stitching together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Camano wins (beat me). I will leave my post even if it repeats. Thejaxxon, it is a start. First (no order) the edges. Once you cut and, I guess, glue and sew, you need to smooth the edges. Take off the "chopped" look. I do it with a band sander and/or a small drum sander mounted on an old grinder and/or a Dremel tool with a drum sander. Once smooth, you need to burnish. Barely, barely dampen the edges and rub with canvas, piece of old towel, or buy a hand burnishing tool. The edge should turn glass smooth. Then dye the edge if possible. Rub/burnish the edge again. I am guessing that it is hand sewn. I don't hand sew. Anyway, get the stitching closer to the handgun. Snug=retention. You have discovered if you try to mold raw veg tanned leather it will mark bad. Actually, you are burnishing that spot. Now if you are going to die the holster that won't show other than the bumpy molding around the trigger. Camano, please post one your pieces for thejaxxon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thejaxxxon Report post Posted March 2, 2015 I have definitely learned the lesson on burnishing the edges of the holster before sewing them together. The holster with the snowflake is my second one and I have since burnished the edges. On the molding, do you do it after you treat it or is there some other way to do it? I have also learned that making the patterns perfect makes the edges that much easier to burnish. Is there a general rule on determining where to place the stitch lines? it is hard to account for the thickness without tons of experience in it. Thank you for the replies! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted March 2, 2015 To mold get the holster good and wet inside and out. this only takes a couple of dunks or hold under the faucet getting all areas wet. The holster should feel fairly pliable. Insert the gun or holster mold into the holster start using your fingers and thumbs to push leather against the gun, you will start to see some shape start to take place, I let the holster rest and dry a little then start again when you get most of the shape you can get more defined lines using tools such a modeling spoon etc. If you have a close enough stitch line you should have to pretty much force the gun into the holster and you will already begin to see the shape and some of the contours of the gun just keep working from there. Do the molding before or after dying but definately before putting any finsh or sealer on. As to locating the stitch line there are several methods. Here is a little tutorial that may help you. This is just one way of doing it. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35904&hl=%2Bmarking+%2Bstitch+%2Bline+%2Bholster Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) If I am building, say a pancake holster, I cut and temporarily glue the two pieces together. I bevel the edges and sand very smooth. Sometimes I will put a stitch line on the front piece top and bottom (where the gun slides in and the barrel opening). Put it back together for good with glue. Then I stitch the normal stuff around the perimeter. Then I wet the holster, place the gun in the correct position and use a food vacuum to quickly get a good mold of the gun. After setting for while I take it out of the vacuum bag to dry or, maybe some more detailing. Now you have a perfect outline and will know how to stich. Sew 'er up, insert the gun and let 'er dry. Somewhere in there I dye the pieces. Kidding. I always dye before I glue. Forgot to add when I put the two pieces back together for good I will touch up the edges with a band sander or any of the aforementioned tools. Edited March 2, 2015 by Red Cent Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BHPshooter Report post Posted March 6, 2015 The only thing I would add (that hasn't been mentioned already) is that your stitches are awfully close together. I don't know what size thread you're using, but I usually shoot for 5 stitches per inch. It would be worthwhile to invest in an edge groover, an overstitch wheel, and a good awl with a diamond-shaped blade. You'd be surprised how good those can make your stitching look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
