Members leatherwytch Posted April 4, 2015 Members Report Posted April 4, 2015 The non glossy is matt or satin shene Quote Creative people need maids. Http://www.LeatherWytch.com
Members MorningStarL Posted April 4, 2015 Author Members Report Posted April 4, 2015 Thanks. I just found out there's a dyes and finishes forum. I'd only searched this one. Quote
Members heydox Posted April 4, 2015 Members Report Posted April 4, 2015 I would suggest vinegaroon. It will not rub off like the USMC black dye because it chemically changes the leather rather than dying it black. It will take a couple days to have a batch ready, but it is a time proven way to get a very rich black. Quote
Members MorningStarL Posted April 4, 2015 Author Members Report Posted April 4, 2015 I never thought of that. My partner's used it on wood. I'll see about brewing up a batch. I know now that part of my problem's been that I'm not leaving things to dry long enough. Quote
Members Gump Posted April 4, 2015 Members Report Posted April 4, 2015 I personally don't like the USMC black, as it just doesn't work near as well as Fiebings Pro oil dye. But the problem you are having has to do with the hide more than the dye. I had one double shoulder from Tandy that gave me the same problem as you are having. I had to wash the hide with alcohol to get it to absorb the dye. The dye clearly didn't penetrate the leather on your projects. I returned a bottle of dye because I thought there was something wrong with it, but the replacement was the same. After washing with alcohol and dyeing, I used neatsfoot oil to replace oils removed by the alcohol. When dyeing with a dauber the dye should suck right into the leather until it reaches saturation, then pool slightly on the surface before absorbing. This should be enough to fully cover without having any serious rub off problems. Drying usually only takes a few hours, and then it can be buffed. Applying to much dye will only cause more rub off and stiffen the leather. As for sealing with anything, I usually only use neatsfoot oil on black projects and don't have any problems as long as water still beads on the surface. When water starts to absorb, then it is time to re-oil. I have 30year old knife sheaths that still look good. Quote
Members MorningStarL Posted April 5, 2015 Author Members Report Posted April 5, 2015 Bingo! I used to always clean off a sheath with rubbing alcohol last thing before I dyed it, and once I read your reply, Gump, I realized I've forgotten to do that at all this winter. I bet that was it. Do you think if I went back to it now and cleaned them with alcohol and tryed the dye again, it would help? Or is it too late? The mink oil should have penetrated by now. Thanks for the reminder. Quote
Members Gump Posted April 5, 2015 Members Report Posted April 5, 2015 The old adage is "you can always dye it black" should definitely work in this case. Quote
Members wlg190861 Posted April 11, 2015 Members Report Posted April 11, 2015 For a rich black. You cannot beat vinegaroon . I let my vinegaroon sit for 7 days before straining an using, gives a very rich black that, dyes will not match. The best thing is, it will never rub off no matter how hard you rub Quote
Members MorningStarL Posted April 11, 2015 Author Members Report Posted April 11, 2015 I'm going to try that. I've been away from leatherwork for over a week -- work deadline I wasn't sure I was going to make. My partner says he's sure there's some around here somewhere -- he made it to use on walnut shelving. Be a lot easier just to make some from scratch tomorrow. Quote
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