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About Gump

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  • Location
    Chezzetcook Nova Scotia
  • Interests
    leather work , welding ,machining and generally fixing stuff.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    I'll try anything.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    sewing machine research

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  1. Use light machine oil or mineral oil, it is all the same stuff. 3 in 1 oil is as good as any.
  2. Merry Christmas Gump,

    i was wondering if you could give me any tips on how to get the stitch length of my 153W103 to 5 stitches per inch or less. I bought it a few weeks back and a longer stitch length would be awesome.



  3. Fiskars serrated Titanium will cut 10 oz and are only about $30. I lucked into a pair at a dollar store, but can't buy another pair here in Canada, not for sale here they told me . We're considered the a$$hole of the world here in Atlantic Canada, but readily available stateside.
  4. You're gonna have to go stateside, as Techsew has a limited selection, and will only sell you boxes of 100 needles. I bought 2 boxes because they were on sale, and they are not top quality. If you do buy from Techsew, get the more expensive needles and save some headaches, ie thread shearing and breakage.
  5. dikman; I have the same motor on a 111, and it is 1/2 hp @ 3450 rpm. It takes 10 mins. to stop turning after turning it off and can't be stalled when sewing.
  6. The 132 k 6 has problems with stitching uneven layers, as the foot is wider than the feed dogs. The inside of the foot has no feed dog under it, so stitching next to the bound edge can be difficult. I repair horse blankets on an old 132 because they are so dirty that I don't want to sew them on a better machine. The shuttle system is also much easier to clean and re-oil after use. I think you could spend $ 2500 much better on a cyl. arm machine with compound feed. That said, an old 132 could serve you well at 1/4 the price.
  7. Ask administrators for permission for the adult section. You will likely find what you are looking for there.
  8. Sometimes a clutch will get sticky and grab erratically and not slip as you would like. To fix this I run the motor up to speed, hold the machine pulley tight, turn the motor off and stamp the pedal down until the motor stops. This glazes the clutch and allows it to slip more smoothly. This works well for me doing it just once, but it depends on the condition of your clutch.
  9. I had to drill through both ears on the body and the driver arm and put a new, larger, pin in. The amount of wear to produce slack was only .020" on my machine, but due to the length of the arm, it multiplies a lot by the time you reach the needle bar. I simply drilled right thru and then polished the hole a bit with emery cloth on a dowel until I had a tight fit, then removed the arm and sanded out the body holes until the pin turned freely with no play.
  10. I use nothing but Lepages heavy duty contact cement, and rarely have to wait more than 2-3 mins. for set up. You only need a thin coat on each side, just enough to change the colour of the leather to a wet look. If you think Lepages is slow, don't ever bother with barge cement as it will drive you crazy waiting for it to set. I have not found any glue faster or better holding than Lepages, including spray glues used for upholstery.
  11. I had one of Tandys euro bends that went moldy on me after forming. I used oxalic acid solution and it basicly wiped the mold right off. As with yours, it is the only time its ever happened to me. I told the local Tandy manager and he riembursed me for the oxalic acid.
  12. Try looking for some pics and info on similar Sieko machines, as it is likely a rebranded machine. It looks like it could be a Sieko.
  13. Checked ISMACS, and they don't list a 152 k 103. Perhaps you are looking at a 153 cylinder arm machine. A 153 has about the same specs as a 2700 Techsew, without reverse. I use my 153 k 103 more than any of my others because of the versatility of the cylinder arm. The only 152 listed is a 2 needle chain stitch machine, and not for leather.
  14. To my recollection, that is not the adjustment lock. Turn your shaft over and there should be another screw on the other side that is your lock screw. Loosen that screw a turn or so and adjust with the large screw in your picture. That small screw you are trying to remove just holds the assembly to the shaft.
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