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fibersport

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About fibersport

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  • Location
    Valparaiso, IN USA
  • Interests
    sewing, photography, boat/car restoration

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  • Interested in learning about
    Pfaff sewing machines
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  1. Can you share the link for the diamond shape logo one?
  2. I'm not trying to be condescending but have you tried looking for the correct presser feet? I had gotten an edge guide presser foot for my Pfaff and it would not fit even though the ad for said it would,. I could have made it work but I found another brand that worked perfectly, it too said it would fit a Pfaff. It isn't easy but you can find parts that will actually fit a Pfaff. CKPSMS was the brand that worked for me, I know they do have other presser feet that they say will work with a Pfaff but I have not tried them. Keep in mind the model number of the one that worked for me had 1245 in the part number which I take it to mean it would for a Pfaff 1245 machine.
  3. I would agree with the previous posts that your machine probably didn't have one. If you compare your gear cover to the one in the video, there doesn't appear to be a place to connect the oil wick. If you open up that gear cover, I bet you'll find a blob of hardened grease and not oil.
  4. Best source for parts like that will be on ebay. There was someone in Poland I think that was selling parts a year or two ago, not sure if he is still listing. New parts will probably be non-existant sorry to say and it seems only the consumable type parts are available from China. Keep looking on Marketplace and ebay for a another machine you could use for parts, they do come up time to time. Remember that the 145 and 545 are almost the same except for a few things, H3 and H4's are also very similar so you could expand your search for those as well. I had a 145 and sold it, replaced it with a 545 and am very happy with it. Good luck with your hunt, be patient and something will come up eventually.
  5. The Pfaff 145 doesn't have any belts on the machine itself so you must be talking about the drive belt from the motor to the machine. Take your original one to Ace Hardware, auto parts store or even on-line if you can read the numbers on it and get a typical small engine 3L belt with matching numbers. The 3L is the belt width across the widest part, do not use a 4L as they are too wide and stiffer. They should last for decades, unless the machine has been sitting with tension on the belt which will give it a permanent set. There are also other types of belt you can use, some look like a round hose while others look like a leather belt with interlocking pieces. Do a little searching to see what's out there.
  6. I never thought of holding both threads with the foot, it would sure make it esier sometimes when you really need two hands, I'll have to try that.
  7. I watched your videos again, it really looks like it's a tension issue. If you watch, the top thread is wrapped around the bobbin thread yet the bobbin thread doesn't seem to move at all. The the top thread tension on mine is pretty tight, if I pull the top thread to the right, it actually bends the tip of my needle to the right, and I have a #22 needle on it. The bobbin tension is loose to the point where it seems it almost doesn't have any tension. I would check to see if your top is tighter than the bottom. If you get it to the point where it's sewing, you can then adjust your tension to bring the top and bottom threads together at the center between your layers of material.
  8. You have to close that cover over the bobbin, otherwise it will ball up like that. If that doesn't work, still close the cover but loosen the tension on the bobin.
  9. His videos are pretty informative, I've watched them a few times. One other thing, are you holding both threads tight when you start sewing? If not, the bobbin thread will ball up like that.
  10. Bobbin tension does look a little tight, however I'd like to ask how you are setting up your machine. Are you closing the bobbin cover. Are you holding the top thread while you cycle the needle up and down to catch the bottom thread? Any chance you can make a video of you setting up the top and bottom threads?
  11. You most likely will not be able to get the needle postioner to work with a speed reducer. The simple reason is a needle postioner reads the location of the input shaft of the machine, it is programmed for a particular distance per revolution. With a speed reducer, that distance per revolution is now changed, the positioner is not designed for the change and therefore can't work.
  12. If I remember correctly, the Pfaff 145 is not so easy to take apart. I'm pretty sure you will need to reset the timing on it due the screws you have to remove. It does make it a great time to clean and lubricaate everything under there. If the thread is all balled up underneath the hook, it's a good chance that the safety was tripped - it will then show up as a really out of time machine.
  13. One thing to check is if your safety clutch has been tripped. If the thread is bunched up, there's a good chance it tripped and will appear as if the timing is way off.
  14. The Consew servo motors have a brake. One option is to remove the cork pads, the other is to apply just a little bit of force on the treadle to get the motor almost turning which will release the brake, you can then turn the hand wheel very easily.
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