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Everything posted by fibersport

  1. The blue shaft just lifts up and down. The pink part has a curved edge to allow it to be locked onto the numbered plate that indicates the stitch length. The spring inside the knurled knob is there to keep the knurled knob under a little tension, probably to make adjustments a little easier. The blue shaft doesn't go in or out any more than it is. The split nut on the end is supposed to be that way, it's not broken. I believe the set screw is just there to limit the knurled knob from going in too far. The knurled knob and the pink part slide on the blue threaded rod. It's been a few months since I had mine apart so this is from memory. It's really a wierd design, you would think they could have designed it a little simpler which they eventually did.
  2. Glad it worked for you too! If you watch these videos, and sit down and play around with it, you'll learn more about your machine than you can imagine. Do you have a manual for it? I would have to check but I think the one for the 1245 was most helpful in setting the timing and all other settings as well, the 145, 545 and 1245 are all very similar.
  3. This may sound odd but put the cover on the right side back in place. Make sure your timing is correct and dial in your tension. I had a problem with birdnesting on my Pfaff 145 and it turned out the missing cover was the problem. After putting in back and making all the adjustments all is well.
  4. Johnny, I might be interested in the 3 pieces on the left, the two knee parts and the one that attaches to the underside of the machine that the knee lift contacts. I don't need the bobbin winder parts. What might you want for them? Probably should go to private messages from this point - not sure how the admin feels about buying/selling being public.
  5. I'm looking for most of these parts. They seem common to many models. The parts in the small box are mounted underneath and connect to the knee lift mechanism. If you don't have the parts, I would be interested in seeing how you converted yours.
  6. I'm looking for most of these parts. They seem common to many models. The parts in the small box are mounted underneath and connect to the knee lift mechanism. If you don't have the parts, I would be interested in seeing how you converted yours.
  7. If nobody has parts, does anyone know of a good source for parts? I've tried searching by part number and description but keep striking out. Somone has to have a rusty old machine just waiting to be a reasonably priced donor of a few parts!
  8. I've got a Pfaff 145-H4. I'm looking for the parts for the knee lifter mechanism on the machine, I can find the part numbers if it helps.
  9. I'm sure this is a long shot but I figured I would ask, is there a chance that anyone is parting out a Pfaff machine? I need a few parts that would be common to many models.
  10. Yes, that thumb screw will change how high the foot rises, loosen it and try it all the way one direction then the other although most will probably leave it at about 3/4 of the maximum adjustment. There are some good videos on Youtube about adjusting the Pfaff machines.
  11. Here is one of them. If you do a search you'll find a bunch of manuals. Keep in mind the 145, 545 and 1245 are basically the same machines. pfaff_145-manual-EN.PDF
  12. How does it not fit? Needle system numbering is very confusing. Do you have a needle that does work? There is a very good chart that shows the dimensions for the different needle systems at this site that I found very helpful: https://ismacs.net/needle_and_shank/needle-cross-reference-chart-round-shank.html
  13. Thanks for the chart Uwe. Were the ABCD and H1,H2,H3,H4 treated the same way? Meaning 145 - A or 145-H4 ? I know the letters for material, stitch length and safety clutch were a separate set under the model.
  14. I would recheck your needle timing and thread tension, and makd sure there are no leftover thread pieces wrapped around the bobbin. You could have also bent the needle guard when the needle broke, that could affect things as well. Just my suggestions ....
  15. Thank you both, all very informative and helpful in trying to decipher my machine. It's interesting that there is a chance that my machine still can be an H4 - not that it really makes any difference to what I need it for. The most difficult thing I've run into is finding documentation that is for my machine and not different or newer models. I don't know enough about the history of the 145/545/1245 along with the H series and A-D models to be certain what I have and what the correct settings are. I will still post the chart I have that shows the parts I have in my machine that would tell me it's now something it wasn't - just need to be able to extract a page first. Again, thank you both for the information.
  16. I spent a couple of hours yesterday just sewing verious seams for practice, all without any issues other than running out of thread on the bobbin. It was a good feeling knowing that I now have much more faith in the machine so when I do start my projects, I won't have to worry about it at all. Good luck with your new belt, if nothing else it will give you peace of mind knowing that things are now able to be brought back to the correct timing.
  17. A few things made me think this. First the name tag is stamped H4, second the part numbers on many of the bobbin parts are listed in a Pfaff manual as being for an H2 and for fabric and third it uses a 135x17 needle, I tried a 190 but there was no way I could time the machine with it. Many of the screws are chewed up so it's obvious the machine has been "worked on" in the past 60 years. I'll find the source and post the page later today.
  18. DoninReno - I wanted to let you know that I figured out my problems with the machine. I took it all apart last night and found out that it is not s 145-H4 as the tag says but has been downgraded to an H2 for fabrics. All that really doesn't matter since it will sew what I need it to but it was a little disheartening. Anyway I went back tonight determined to get it working again. I reset everything both according to the book and by gut feel. I had to use the original needle but figured it worked before so it should work again. I got it all back together and made some test stitches only to find out it was still birdnesting on the underside. I adjusted the tension with only about 80% of the stitches coming out good. I then started thinking about the odd sounds it was making and then opened up the cover plate over the bobbin. My stitches seemed to be better. I adjusted the tension to even things out and all was good until I closed the cover. It made a sound like the bobbin was spinning very fast and I had birdnesting again. That's when I noticed the cover plate over the bobbin had a pice of metal on the underside that had some curved sections. I tutned the cover plate around after realizing I had it in backwards. I was then able to sew without any birdnesting at all. The good thing ios that i was able to learn a whole lot more about my machine and how to clean and time it. I appreciate your comments and assistance with this problem which turned out to be a mistake on my part.
  19. I solved my bottom stitch birdnesting tonight, maybe this might help. I noticed it would make an odd sound like the bobbin was spinning, that's when it would generate tons of loops. I removed the cover plate over the bobbin and everything was fine, adjusted the top tension and colsed the cover and it would birdnest. open the cover to watch and it would be OK. Turns out I had the top cover plate turned 180 degrees which would allow the thread to hit it causing the noise. It sounds bizarre but my problem is gone. The top cover plate has some curved areas above the bobbin which I believe lets teh thread hit it and then direct it where it needs to go. I should say that I have a top load bobbin, not sure if you do or not. Next is to play around with tension to get my stitches all dialed in.
  20. Can some of the Pfaff experts out there help me out with understanding the models of a Pfaff machine? Mine is a 145-H4 designed for leather, however it seems to have been downgraded to a fabric model B or C. I'm curious what the differences between the H2, H3, H4, A, B, C and D models are. I have the various manuals but nothing that actually explains the differences. For instance, I know an H4 uses a 190 needle system, however mine seems to be better with a 135 system but I would really like to know why? Any help or direction to a source is greatly appreciated.
  21. If I may jump in on this one .... I have a Singer 251, it was my first industrial/commercial machine some years back. It does not have a walking foot and is more appropriate for quitling which is what the woman I bought it from was doing, it also has an oil pump. Fast forward some years and I wanted to try and make a seat cover for my Jeep. All went good until I tried cramming multiple layers of Sunbrella under a foot that raised up only a hair over 1/4". The search for a walking foot machine built to handle leather began and I found a Pfaff 145 about 2 weeks ago for a cheap price although it did need a lot of TLC. I was able to get it sewing very well, even up to 8 layers of vinyl with no problems. Then I thought I would be smart and clean all the rust and gunk on it. My problems began and it has been a little difficult getting information on this machine which is about 60 years old. There have been a few people on this forum who have helped quite a bit however parts seem to be difficult to find. If the machine you found is indeed rebuilt and in great working order, I still think the price is a bit steep. I don't think I would buy an older Pfaff for that money unless I planned on light useage only because of possible issues with parts. My Pfaff did run great and would probably be more than I could ever need (once I get it dialed in) however there are costs associated with that. Honestly if you want a mchine with a lineage, look for a Pfaff 1245. If you want a machine that you can get parts for get a Consew. I deal with an upholstery company that is making seats for our train cars, they also make seats for Amtrak and Delta so they know their business. I was at their plant a few weeks ago, all their new machines are Juki's. They have numerous models but if they have invested their money into those machines, that has to tell you something. Just my $0.02 ...... And a servo motor will make a big difference!
  22. You have given me more great information to try out maybe tonight - thanks again. I have not done any adjusting yet, I didn't realize the needle guard was adjustable. I do believe the hook is good because there is another one facing the opposite direction that seems to be almost in line with the main one. This backwards hook is called the hook gib in my parts manual. The needle guard also was chewed up on the top edge so I wonder if some needle decided to commit suicide on it at one time. The manuals I have been able to find are for newer models and seem to cover mine pretty well. With your help, the manuals and a little mechanical engineering logic I should be able to figure it all out in time. Will update as things progress.
  23. You could be right about a bent hook, however I just got the machine last week and had it sewing perfect stitches, only until I tired to clean it and adjust it did my problems show up. I do know that originally I adjusted the clearance so that the needle guide just touched the needle, now it actually bends it to the left. I just recieved an order of new needles and should be able to try them out along with some adjustments tomorrow. I do think that either the hook or the needle guard are bent. The machine sat for years in an unheated garage and accumulated a lot of rust, dirt and old dried grease. Maybe I should have left it alone? All I can find is a manual for a Pfaff 1245 which i understand is close to the 145 which is what I have. I'll keep trying with all the suggestions - thanks to all for the help.
  24. I already found that guy. My machine is missing the parts for the knee lift, the ones mounted to the machine, both on the underside and the topside. I have numerous parts manuals but I need to identify the correct parts for my machine. I can live without the knee lift for now but down the road I'm sure it will make life easier. Another member had mentioned a shop in Indianapolis, and I know of Hoffman Brothers, just looking for some others that people are familiar with.
  25. Thank you both. Currently it looks like the needle guard may have been damaged with a prior owner. The top edge was all chewed up so I dressed the rough edges but noticed that after setting my clearance between the needle and hook, the needle guard really pushed the needle over. When I first got the machine running smoothly, I had adjusted the clearance so that the needle just barely moved, now when I tried to set things by the book, my stitches are now a little erratic and the needle guard pushes the needle over quite a bit- hence my question regarding clearance. I'll keep playing with the clearances and see how it performs.
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