fibersport

Best source for parts like that will be on ebay. There was someone in Poland I think that was selling parts a year or two ago, not sure if he is still listing. New parts will probably be non-existant sorry to say and it seems only the consumable type parts are available from China. Keep looking on Marketplace and ebay for a another machine you could use for parts, they do come up time to time. Remember that the 145 and 545 are almost the same except for a few things, H3 and H4's are also very similar so you could expand your search for those as well. I had a 145 and sold it, replaced it with a 545 and am very happy with it. Good luck with your hunt, be patient and something will come up eventually.

The Pfaff 145 doesn't have any belts on the machine itself so you must be talking about the drive belt from the motor to the machine. Take your original one to Ace Hardware, auto parts store or even on-line if you can read the numbers on it and get a typical small engine 3L belt with matching numbers. The 3L is the belt width across the widest part, do not use a 4L as they are too wide and stiffer. They should last for decades, unless the machine has been sitting with tension on the belt which will give it a permanent set. There are also other types of belt you can use, some look like a round hose while others look like a leather belt with interlocking pieces. Do a little searching to see what's out there.

I never thought of holding both threads with the foot, it would sure make it esier sometimes when you really need two hands, I'll have to try that.

I watched your videos again, it really looks like it's a tension issue. If you watch, the top thread is wrapped around the bobbin thread yet the bobbin thread doesn't seem to move at all. The the top thread tension on mine is pretty tight, if I pull the top thread to the right, it actually bends the tip of my needle to the right, and I have a #22 needle on it. The bobbin tension is loose to the point where it seems it almost doesn't have any tension. I would check to see if your top is tighter than the bottom. If you get it to the point where it's sewing, you can then adjust your tension to bring the top and bottom threads together at the center between your layers of material.

You have to close that cover over the bobbin, otherwise it will ball up like that. If that doesn't work, still close the cover but loosen the tension on the bobin.

His videos are pretty informative, I've watched them a few times. One other thing, are you holding both threads tight when you start sewing? If not, the bobbin thread will ball up like that.

Bobbin tension does look a little tight, however I'd like to ask how you are setting up your machine. Are you closing the bobbin cover. Are you holding the top thread while you cycle the needle up and down to catch the bottom thread? Any chance you can make a video of you setting up the top and bottom threads?

You most likely will not be able to get the needle postioner to work with a speed reducer. The simple reason is a needle postioner reads the location of the input shaft of the machine, it is programmed for a particular distance per revolution. With a speed reducer, that distance per revolution is now changed, the positioner is not designed for the change and therefore can't work.

If I remember correctly, the Pfaff 145 is not so easy to take apart. I'm pretty sure you will need to reset the timing on it due the screws you have to remove. It does make it a great time to clean and lubricaate everything under there. If the thread is all balled up underneath the hook, it's a good chance that the safety was tripped - it will then show up as a really out of time machine.

One thing to check is if your safety clutch has been tripped. If the thread is bunched up, there's a good chance it tripped and will appear as if the timing is way off.

The Consew servo motors have a brake. One option is to remove the cork pads, the other is to apply just a little bit of force on the treadle to get the motor almost turning which will release the brake, you can then turn the hand wheel very easily.

While you can use both needle systems, you might run into some problems if the machine is not adjusted correctly. It sounds like yours was set for the 135x16 or 135x17 so as long as it all works, go ahead with using them. The 45mm pulley on the motor will give you the slowest starting speed to make it easier to control the machine. A larger pulley on the motor will produce a faster starting speed on the machine. To slow it down any more will require a speed reducer but that's getting a little complicated for now, enjoy the machine with the servo motor with the smaller pulley if the previous owner installs one.

Not to disagree with your findings but a Pfaff 145 H3 would normally use a 134-35 needle system. Now, they can be adjusted to run the more common 135x16 or 135x17, just make sure that you're running the correct needle. The Pfaff's are a great machine, I had a 145 and was able to find a 545 which I have now. I installed an analog servo motor with a 45mm pulley, I can run a stitch at a time for great control.

Thanks, it's more of just a question as it isn't causing any problems.

Wizcrafts: Would clockwise be what is recommended? The reason I ask is my Pfaff 545 manual shows mine should run clockwise but I've heard some will run it counterclockwise to get a little more tension on the bobbin thread. I've noticed that sometimes I hear what sounds like the bobbin spinning. I've never had it knot up but just wonder if that might help tighten things up a bit to eliminate the sound - not that it really matters.

Not sure if this was brought up but a butcher block counter top would make a great top.

Check this manual out, it's for the newer 1245 but most of it will apply to the 145. While the machine isn't designed to run backwards, it shouldn't bind up in a turn or two, it might take a few times to get everything set correctly, just make sure it's oiled up. I like to use a mixture of a light grease like Lubriplate and a 3 in 1 household oil. One more thing, is there a chance the safety clutch was tripped? If it was, the timing will be off and it can lock up like that. Read up on resetting the safety clutch and check that. 1245-1246 adjustment manual.pdf

I think this is what he meant by the hollow [ploy(sp)] poly belts, but the connector is called a barb, not a burr. https://durabelt.com/hollowbeltinfo.php You need to be careful on the minimum pulley diameter with the ones shown, says a smaller pulley will cut through the tubing. There are other brands.

I have a Pfaff 545 that I'm trying to determine the age of. I found a serial number list on the ismacs.net site but the serial number on mine doesn't fit the format. Anyone out there have any ideas? Here is a picture of the serial number on my machine, according to the website it should have 7 digits whereas mine has 9, and 3 of them are vertical.

Nice job on the cleanup. It really looks like a low hour machine. For a servo motor, just go with a simple brush motor, the Consew CSM550 is great, that's what I use on mine. I got mine here https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html . Be sure to call them up and ask Bob for the 45mm pulley, you probably won't need the speed reducer with the smaller pulley. The belt will depend on a few things, but it will be a 3L belt, you can get them at ACE Hardware. You can get a close measurement with a piece of closeline or even an extension cord. As for removing the pulley, there is a set screw that needs to be removed as well as a horizontal screw. Take them both out and you might be able to tap the pulley off, if it's really stuck you can pull it off with a 3 jaw puller. A little heat from a propane torch and some penetrating oil could also be helpful. I might not be too concerned with it though, it wouldn't be worth breaking it just to clean it up as replacements would be tough to find. You could also just use the motor to run the machine while you clean it up with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper, depends on how far you're taking it down.

keep in mind that the marvel mystery oil may remove the decal so you might want to avoid that area, I had a 145 and upgraded to a 545. Great machines but parts can be difficult to find. You might also want to lubricate all the working parts with the oil and then start taking it apart to further clean it once you have it free up and running smoothly. I have a bunch of files for the 145 and 545, holler if you need anything.

It looks like the Vevor is a brushless servo motor, and probably on the lower end of the price range. That being said, it probably has a start up speed in the 500 rpm range, too fast to use it stitch by stitch. As long as you don't have a needle positioner attached, you can slow it down by installing a 45 mm pulley on it. You could also buy or build a speed reducer. I made one out of angle iron, pillow block bearings, a shaft and pulleys - yes they can be made out of many materials, it all depends on your abilities. I bought a Consew 550 servo motor with brushes, installed a 45mm pulley and it's wonderful, its start up speed is around 150. You will need to learn where the start up speed comes in with your pedal, it's still easy to get two stitches instead of one but again, muscle memory will come with more use. You might want to look here where I got mine: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html talk to Bob.

Glad to help -

Hi from a fellow Hoosier! Wizcrafts summed it all up about the brush servo motor. If you don't need the needle positioner, I would go with the Consew 550 but order it with the 45mm pulley. I too bought mine from https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html . I have a Pfaff 545 which is similar to your Juki, I use it for auto upholstery now and will be using it for marine upholstery and covers in the future. The smaller pulley allows you to feather it at start up so you can better control things.

There is a manual for the 1245 that covers how to adjust the feed dog, the two machines are very similar. Not sure if I should post it or not so send me a PM.