fibersport

I seem to recall Wizcraft answering this for me some time back, however I can't seem to find my post. I'll check later tonight but maybe he will stop by before that.

Just for my clarification - doesn't the outer presser foot pinch the material between it and the throat plate while the needle foot and feed dog separate from the material and move towards the back, then they clamp the material while the needle comes down while the outer foot raises up to release the material? Remember I'm new to this and just trying to picture the motion of everything. If what I'm saying is true, then is the width of the outer foot all that critical as it should still be able to pinch the material, especially if its a thicker leather. I'm also assuming the narrow outer foot is to be able to fit within a zipper? I should look up a youtube video on sewing a zipper into something ....

I got an edge guide presser foot for my birthday from China. It was listed as working on the Pfaff 545, well it didn't. The hole on the rear presser was in the wrong place and the whole foot was too long, the needle presser was too long by quite a bit. I contacted them to discuss the problem, they quickly refunded my money and told me to keep the part as it would not be cost effective to ship it back. They suggested another edge guide but I had already ordered a replacement from another company. This one fits just fine and has a brand name of CKPSMS, I would think other feet of that brand would fit the Pfaff as well. Not sure what brand you bought but maybe this information can help -

Let us know what it turns out to be with teh repair shop. Don't forget, I'd be willing to accept a donation

Are you using the correct size needle for the thread? I would agree that the stitch is not being completed correctly, but what doesn't make sense is you are saying the top thread (black) is very tight and the bottom (red) is loose I would expect to see the red thread popping up through the top rather than the black. Is your tension correct on your bobbin? I have found in the past that if I just loosen up both top and bottom threads and start over, it sometimes helps out. If all else fails, just donate that machine to me ..... Lol!!!

If you can find either a piece of rope or an extension cord that measures about 3/8" in diamter, you can get real close to measuring the size of belt you will need. I have a flat 3 wire electric cord that is perfect for measuring, I've also calculated the belt size with an on-line calculator and both were spot on.

I don't think it was a timing issue until your last post, you might have overthought it and ended up messing the timing anyway. Initially it looks like the black thread tension is too low. Is your bobbin threaded correctly? Also, is the black thread wrapped around the post at the top of the machine? Do you have the Pfaff manual? There is one for the 1245 that I used to work on my 145 and 545, great walkthrough to setting everything up. 1245-1246 adjustment manual.pdf

Is your bobbin threaded correctly? I would take it out and rethread the machine top and bottom, maybe you got something backwards.

I asked the same question a couple of months ago. Welting & piping I think are the same, they come in different diameters for different diameter welting. By edge I assume you mean edge guide? They give you a more consistent dimension from the edge of the seam, I would think they would woek great for belts. I was told to just try different ones, others have said they have many different ones but use the standard one that came with the machine. Overall though, the best answer was that most of them make certain things easier to do, but you can do pretty much everything with a standard foot -

Another method is to get a left handed drill bit, sometimes the drilling action is enough to turn the screw out. I'm not sure what they cost but it might be better if the part is not easily replaced or costs a fortune.

I agree with contacting Toledo Sewing Machine, however you could possibly get by with just getting a 45mm diameter pulley for the motor. This will slow things down considerably and is much cheaper than a speed reducer. I just went through this same thing, I built a speed reducer, then bought a different servo motor (Consew SM550) with a smaller pulley and tried it without the speed reducer. I'm very happy with the setup as it is. You will still have to practice with your starts as it will take a little experience to get your foot to do what you want it to do.

Do you have WD-40 where you are? That's a good cleaner and really helps clean up the old grease and oil. spray it around and work the hand wheel by hand until it feels nice and smooth. Once cleaned up, wipe it off and then lubricate with the oil and grease recommended for yuour machine.

The comment about the hand wheel made me think about my machines. I have a Pfaff 145, Pfaff 545 and an old Singer 212 (I think). Both Pfaff's have the belt on the outside, the singer has it on the inside. The Pfaff's feel just right, the Singer does as well but the Singer adjusts the stich length by turning the hand wheel which would explain why it's on the outside. I think the Oryx orientation is correct, check it by sewing a little, if it feels right it probably is.

Reminds me of when I worked at a camera shop in the 70's. People would buy cameras from the catalog stores or the big box stores and then bring them in and ask for help on how to use it. Those customers would have to wait until everyone else was taken care of then we would give them some quick general information and maybe sell them some film and offer the first roll developed for free. Many times it worked and we got some long term customers, others it wouldn't work at all. Sometimes though my boss would get ticked off and tell them to ask for help where they bought it - that was usually when we were swamped with customers.

Scroll up about 8 posts and read the post by Uwe, he talks about starting up a machine that has been sitting. If you can post a couple of pictures it might help others to understand what you have which might bring more suggestions.

Look at the post "buying a used first industrial machine", the poster is looking at similar machines. I didn't realize that there were different versions of the Pfaff 1245, I would really like one of the newer versions myself. I believe if you have a twin needle machine, you can always run with just one needld, not sure how that affects the presser foot and such. I have a Pfaff 545 and really like it despite it being an older machine.

What kind of motor does it have? Clutch motors 'MIGHT" be able to be lubricated, servo motors most likely not. Does it run smoothly and quietly? Again, some info on it might help.

Wondering if your linkage is set correctly, you might just be turning the motor on but not moving the lever down enough to actually speed it up, that might explain why it runs without a belt but not when you install the belt - no load vs. load on the motor.

Is the motor the same voltage and frequency that you have at your outlet? Here in the USA most home electrical is 120 volt 60 Hz, I'm not sure what it is in Israel, just make sure you have the correct motor.

I'll just throw out a thought that popped into my head while reading this - any chance you're feeding the thread off the bobbin on the wrong side? I have no knowledge of your machine but would think a reversed bobbin would affect tension which could then possibly tear the thread?

could be for a needle positioner or possibly a small LED light, can you find the instructions as they should say what it's for.

I'm not familiar with the Juki line but my Pfaf fit right into the opening that had my Singer, I do believe the openings are pretty standard although you might have to tweak things a little.

Correct, anything in that list that says H3 will work. I see you're in Europe so I would think the metric system might be the popular size to find. I use what I think is Singer size numbering, 14, 19, 22 etc. I bought mine from https://www.ebay.com/str/cutexsewingsupplies but you might be able to find something more local as I don't know if they will ship to you. Again, feel free to ask questions or send me a private message if you wish.

Yes, the needle is a 134-35. The size will depend on the material and thread you will be using. Determining what all the needle numbers mean is a learning experience. The length is critical to having the machine in proper time. I would read up on the machine, there is a lot of information out there even though the machine is no longer made. They are still great machines though. Here is the breakdown of the letters of your machine: H3 = top feed lift 5.5mm, fabric clearance 11.0mm, C = medium-heavy materials, L=leather, M=safety overload, N=6mm stitch length max. The belt length is based on the pulley sizes and distance between the pulley centers. If you are going to add a servo motor, you will need to change the belt length. You can use possibly a round extension cord to measure for the belt length, it should be close. If nothing else, possibly take your existing blet to a car parts store and compare. If you want a needle positioner, you will need to get a digital servo motor. There are analog servo motors but they will not work with a needle positioner. I can't tell you if the needle positioner will work with the Pfaff 145 but it will depend on the diameters of the adapter and the center of the balance wheel. I have a Pfaff 545 which is very similar. I too installed a servo motor but went with an analog model with the smaller 45mm pulley. It really allows great control of the needle, so much so I don't feel the need to use a needle positioner but that's just me. Good luck with your machine, I have a lot of information on these machines as I'm new to it too. Let me know if I can help -

Can you explain what benefit there is to the four motion feed of the feed dog. I have a 145 and have replaced it with a 545. Would love a 1245 but I have to stop somewhere ....