Watch Strap Making

[AndersenLeather]

[Etienne]

Wow Jonasbo that's really impressive work! The final result looks stunning!

I have 2 questions for you:

1- did you use cement glue all over the leather pieces surfaces or only the edges? (is the filler only glued to one side)

im asking the question because I imagine the 3 layers bottom, filler and top would make a pretty stiff multilayer sandwich if they cannot slide one over the otheer.. Maybe I'm really thinking too far about it but I cannot stop my engineer brain from picturing that

2- how did you finish your edges? Just before sewing or after and did you dyed and burnish or simply burnish.

I cannot wait to try that technique myself!

[AndersenLeather]

Thanks

1- I used glue all over the surfaces and on both sides of the filler. I think you are overthinking it. The strap is not stiff at all even with everything glued together.

2 - the edges was finished before the stitching was done. I used normal black dye on the edges before burnishing.

If you got more questions feel free to ask again.

One thing I always do before a new project is to make small "proof of concept" of the details i'm unsure of.

[HippieLee]

Great looking band, Jonasbo. Thanks for posting all the pics!

[iWERKS]

I just started out making my own straps about a month ago (and still have lots to learn). I've been using leather in the 4-6oz range, double layered so that the strap is approx 4-6mm thick. It really depends on the watch it's going on and if it thick strap matches it. For buckles, I like to use either the OEM buckle that came with the watch, or something a bit less common. I found this ratcheting divers clasp at strapcode.com which I'm using on the Breitling. They sell many other style of buckles but they're not exactly cheap.

Here's a few i've made

Edited April 15, 2015 by iWERKS

[ramrod]

etienne - you can glue up the strap on both sides and it will not always be stiff. you don't need anything to "slide past" anything else.

one thing i've noticed is that iwerks and jonasbo put only one or three holes in the strap. i use one in mine. that's all i need. i'm not gonna grow or shrink so tht the strap won't fit.

nice watches guys....i'm in love with the speedmasters.and breitling is on my list also....the makara is brass? sweet!

[iWERKS]

Thanks ramrod. My obsession with watches and leather straps is what led me here. I put three holes in my straps because usually the first hole I punch is either too big or to small lol and having two holes looks odd. Being pretty new at this, I was afraid if I put more than three holes, they will start to get out of alignment/spacing. Get my "plan B" logic?

The Makara is CUSN8 bronze. Great watch for the price. Photos really can't illustrate how light emphasizes the hexagonal shape of the case for a split second when the light hits it at the right angle.

[jwallace]

Hello there,

I figured I'd weigh in as well, although many questions have been answered!

1 - Leather type and weight - This is purely subjective, but all my straps are made from 4oz. leather. As far as type, I have pretty much stuck with Horween leathers because I like the temper; they are not too stiff but not too soft. I also began by dyeing my own veg tan tooling hides but it was definitely my least favorite part of the process. Now I just buy finished leathers.

2 - The glue shouldn't have much impact on the pliability of the strap. I've skipped gluing and went straight to stitching and found no real difference.

3 - I'm not sure how to get away from wrinkling at the top. I'd love to be able to bend a strap back to its original shape after I've worn it, but experience has taught me just to leave it with some curvature and not mess it up.

4 - I order my buckles on eBay from zhuoleistore. She has a great variety and -- best of all -- they're cheap and on-par with the quality of other buckles I've bought from Esslinger, Jules Borel, etc.

I hope that helps!

[ramrod]

The Makara is CUSN8 bronze.

LOL...i'm such an idiot (bangs head on desk). that's actually what i meant. seems there are more bronze watches on the market lately. it's on my list.

thanks for that buckle link, jwallace. i've been looking for a site to buy some.

sweet! a seiko diver. are you on the SCWF site?

Edited April 17, 2015 by ramrod

[TomG]

Nice bands. I do have a couple of questions. I've only made a couple of 2 ply straps and wasn't real happy with my quality. Mainly the stitching.

1) Do you make it oversize and trim it down after gluing together and then sew?

2) Do you hand sew or are you using a machine?

3) What weight thread did you use?

4) is there any benefit or difference between sewing across the strap at the pin or not?

Thanks in advance.