Beginniner Confusion On Stitching And Pretty Much Everything Else

[onlyoblivion]

Hi folks!

I'm brand new, and I am HOOKED! As I wait on Amazon drones to bring me books from Valerie Michael and Al Stolman (I'm doing my research, see!) I want to share with you my errors and ask advice.

First error, bought an angle pronged chisel and a speedy stitch awl. Turns out the lock stitching tool doesn't jive too well with the angled fork thing, turns out that is for buck stitching, and buckstitching lace, not thread, yes? Second mistake, buying another fork like chisel, this one not angled, but very small! Is there standard sizing for these guys, ie, use 4mm for veg tanned thick stuff, and smaller for say, the remnants you an get from Tandy and hobby lobby? I ask because I would like to use both thick and thin leathers. On top of all these questions, I came across pricking irons. So many options folks, it's tough. I know too that many of you recommend single diamond awls. But again, so many size and quality varieties, the head spins. I'm not asking for easy answer, just some clarity. Is 1-1/4 a god all around size?

Additionally, I see multiple tutorials on double needle saddle stitching, but very little info on when to use this stitch. Is it just the universal leather stitch, or is it popular because it appears the same on both sides of the piece, or is it recommended for thicker leather, or what? When would one want to use a different stitch pattern, such as a lock stitch or similar?

Lastly, and I am sorry for my multitude of questions, my rivets look funny. Smooshed on one side, and buckled on the other. I used a setter from Tandy, but this has been consistent with each I've tried. What gives?

The photos come from my first go at this, using the angled chisel with the speedy stitcher. I'm also not doing super great with keeping thin leather flat while cutting, but I'm hoping that will come with practice

Thanks in advance to you kind folks!!

[robertmeco]

Welcome to the forum glad to have you join us what part of Texas

[onlyoblivion]

Thanks robertmeco! I live near Ft. Hood

[Tugadude]

Welcome! First, a question on your rivets. Do you have a setter AND an anvil? If not, Tandy sells the little anvil that has a depression and will maintain the rounded shape of double cap rivets.

Second, stitching chisels are remarkably cheap, whether from Springfield Leather, goodsjapan.com or Tandy. Lots of threads on here about chisels. I would also direct you to Nigel Armitage's videos on Youtube.com. He reviews chisels and pricking irons and teaches saddle stitching extremely well. His website has written reviews of the various irons.

Lastly, a running stitch is a weak stitch in comparison to a saddle stitch. It is great unless or until a break and then it starts to come undone. A saddle stitch is like two running stitches, but from opposite sides. If one side breaks, the two pieces remain together, held by the other side. It is all I use. And yes, it is nice that the stitches look similar on both sides.

Hope that helps!

Not the best photo, but this is an anvil. About $3.00 or so. It is concave, although the pic doesn't show it well.

[camano ridge]

Like was said above, Niegel will give you great information stitching and pricking irons etc. Also check out Stohlman's book the Art of Hand Stitching.

You may be using to long of a rivet for the thickness of your project. Make sure you have the appropriate setting kit for the type of rivets you are using.

[Tugadude]

Sorry, but I missed the pic showing the backside of the rivet. What I was saying related to double caps, where both sides look the same. That one is supposed to be flat on the back. Assuming you hammered it on a firm surface, I agree with camano ridge that it might have been too long. There are tutorials online that show how to set and properly size rivets. My rule of thumb is I don't want to see more than maybe 1/16" of the shaft sticking up above the leather.

[onlyoblivion]

Thanks all, I really appreciate any and all words of advice!