Introduction And A Question About A Little Tool Problem

[gmace99]

try putting a match stick or two in the hole the blade came out . then tap the handle back on to your blade

[BuckeyeGuy]

Thanks for all of the great tips!

So, I go to Tandy and looked around at the awls (and of course a lot of of things) and the young man that has been assisting me showed me the handle with the ferrule, and said I can buy the diamond shaped blade for it that totals about $23.00. If you agree that it is OK and I don't have to buy the $70.00 Pro model, then I'll try to squeeze it out of my next check.

So, I was told that they were out of the scratch awls, and will order it from another store. They will exchange this one when it comes in probably on Wednesday. A week after, I may be able to purchase a diamond awl.

The awl I have worked great on the holster I made. I saddle stitched it. I took it with me to Tandy for their thoughts and he was really impressed which surprised me. I told him of the countless hours I put in on utube. Sorry to say I have not yet watched much of Nigel, which I will remedy.

[zuludog]

I've been reading your last post, above, and also looking at Tandy USA's website, and there's something I can't follow. I think perhaps you or I have made a misunderstanding.

Craftool Pro Diamond Awl Blade # 8302 - 01 or 02 or 03 is $24 - 99 each. But that is for the blade ONLY. You will also need the handle, called a 'haft' -

Craftool Pro Diamond Awl Haft # 83021 - 00 is $39 - 99 So the total cost will be about $65

I suggest you consider getting the following:-

Stitching Awl With 1 1/4" Blade #31218 - 01 is $16 - 99

Proline Diamond Stitching Chisel, 4 - prong, 1/8"/3 mm spacing # 88045 - 04 is $13 - 99. This can be used to make holes through the leather, or just as a pricking iron to mark the positions & spacing, then follow up with the awl.

You can start with an ordinary hammer but the steel head will burr over the end of the tool, so you should get a wooden, or hide, or plastic mallet asap. Don't get a rubber one as it will bounce too much. Or improvise yourself, with any lump of wood

Cheaper still is to make up your own sewing awl. I have seen the blades on Tandy's website for about $5 to $6. In Britain you can get the handles/hafts for less than £3, say $5, so I assume they will be similarly available in USA. Ask around and shop around.. You might already have something you can use as a haft - an old screwdriver; an old kitchen tool; cut down the end of a broken hammer handle, and so on

Even if an awl blade is described as ready sharpened you will almost certainly have to do the final polishing yourself, using P600 to P800 grade wet & dry paper followed by a polishing compound. There are lots of threads here, and videos on YouTube on sharpening an awl. Just use any scrap of leather or stiff glossy card till you have a strop. They are easy enough to make yourself.

Plus, of course, get your new, exchanged, scratch awl

Edited May 5, 2015 by zuludog

[camano ridge]

Buckeyeguy, this is the Tandy awl that I use http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3318-01.aspx This is the awl blade I use http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3319-05.aspx I have used this set up for over 5 years. I make several holsters and belts a month and everything I do is hand stitched. I only use that awl, and I have another of the same blade chucked in a garage sale drill press that i use when I am doing belts. The awl blade will take a little polishing on a stone but once you have done that you should be good to go. I have not found a need to get the pro series.

You can see my work on facebook https://www.facebook.com/CamanoRidgeCustomLeather?fref=ts or my pinterest page https://www.pinterest.com/kreimans/camano-ridge-custom-leather/

everything you see on those pages were hand sewn using the Tandy awl. There are lots of awls out there and they all have good an bad points. However if that is the one you can afford it should work for your needs.

Edited May 5, 2015 by camano ridge

[BuckeyeGuy]

Zuludog and Camano Ridge, thank you again for such awesome responses. I certainly do not want to leave out the rest of the guys that have offered such invaluable information. I feel blessed with all of you.

Prior to my health issues when I was working, I had a few extra dollars that I could have gone out from week to week and get what I needed, within reason. Now however, it is a much different story. I am going month to month pretty much existing in a one bedroom apartment. It's been 3 years since my quintuple bypass and about one year since they determined the damage to my heart and put in a defibrillator. Such is life! Anyway, after the bouts with depression and other things I decided that this leather working thing might be good for me. And it is! I think the best part is meeting such kind and giving people as yourselves. After a lot of years, I can say that most folks do not like to freely offer information. I have found I think one of the only forums that are opposite to that. Thank you again!

Camano Rigde, that haft was the exact one the guy at Tandy showed me. May I ask why you went with the small blade rather than one of the others? My guess is the size of the thread and number of holes per inch.

Boy, I wish I had a drill press. You should have seen the mess I made of the iPhone case I made with my imitation Dremel trying to even the edges.

Well, again long winded. Sorry!

[camano ridge]

The short blade has less flex then longer ones. It is just personal preference. I make knife sheaths another items that can be 3/4" of an inch or more and I have no problem making my holes with the shorter blade. Again it is the only one I use and it works fine for me.

[billybopp]

I use a shorter blade as well. It seems a little easier to control to me. For the same movement of the wrist, a longer blade will move a greater distance. I also prefer a broader tip profile for my awl, which I find helpful in getting the angle just right with holes marked from a pricking iron or chisel.

Bill

[zuludog]

BuckeyeGuy; considering the health problems you have described I'm sure we all congratulate and admire you for starting any hobby that requires some sort of physical activity.

My physical health isn't too bad, though I have diabetes, but I, too suffered from depression when I was made redundant. I am mostly free from it now but i always have the feeling that it is still over my shoulder; so yes, it is good to have some hobby that you can lose yourself in.

See if you can get a book on leathercraft, perhaps secondhand from Ebay or Amazon. Otherwise work your way through this forum and/or YouTube.

You don't need a powered edge burnisher, you can get a hand one, or cut a couple of grooves in a piece of old hammer handle and polish it up.

This is a tip I was shown by a professional saddler. Take a piece of scrap leather about one inch square and about 6 to 8 oz. Treat the edge of your work with your usual finish, say gum trag & Edgecote, or just beeswax. Fold over the leather piece, hold it down with your fingers, and rub it along. It's slow, but free. The more you use it, the better it gets.

Speaking of beeswax, even if you use prewaxed thread, beeswax is handy for topping up, and for various little jobs in leatherwork, and is cheap enough.

Nigel Armitage has a video - 'How To Make A Simple Hand Made Wallet'. Obviously on a wallet, but it is also a good guide to simple, easy leatherwork, and you have something useful. It includes edge finishing and using a hand slicker, towards the end. You might be able to sell them to get a bit of pocket money.

If you have a Dremel you can use 1.5 mm drills to make stitch holes. Purists might not like it, but it's easy, and does the job.

You might find these websites useful.

http://www.britishblades.com they have a section in the forum on leatherwork; sections on finished knives often show their sheaths as well

http://brisa.fi Mainly a supplier of knifemaking blades & materials, but also tutorials on sheath making

http://bowstock.co.uk A British supplier of leathercraft tolos and materials. They have some good tutorials on basic techniques on their website, including a comparison of leather measurements

Sometimes the links don't work, but it's worth putting them into your search engine (Google!) manually

Edited May 5, 2015 by zuludog

[TinkerTailor]

Ok, if you are going to Tandy, you do not want a scratch all you want a Diamond awl (the blade has a diamond profile) A diamond profile gives you the best hole for stitching it will also go through thicker leather (if sharp) easier then a scratch all. A scratch awl is round you only have a fine point at the end to pierce the leather then you have to force the rest of the shaft through to open the hole. Also while you are at Tandy get a piece of bees wax. Rub the blade of the awl on the bees wax you will find it goes through the leather easier. If the blade starts to drag rub it on the bees was again.

As a leather worker on a budget i suggest looking at what Tandy has and then finding/making as many tools and supplies elsewhere as possible. Hardware stores have scratch awls for woodwork for cheap. Flea markets and used tool stores also sometimes have awls. If you are on the way by, stop in and check.

I got a pound of organic beeswax for 11 dollars at a dollar/craft store. Tandy sells an ounce block for $6.30 CAD. That is $100 dollars a pound. Candle supply places are $10-20/lb.

They also sell blue nitrile gloves, 6pack is $7.50. Drug store, 100 pack is $8.99.

Tandy has the wax marked up 1000 percent profit and the gloves 1500 percent profit over standard retail for these products.....eat that with your toast.....

Edited May 6, 2015 by TinkerTailor

[BuckeyeGuy]

Hi Guys!

Well, I'm back! I picked up a few things with my recent allotment. I'm not quite sure how the bills will be getting paid this month but I can stand the loss of a little weight. Anyway, I went to Tandy. I purchased their basic awl haft along with the small diamond shaped awl. When I got home I tried it on a piece of leather. It was rather difficult to get it through as well as disfiguring the leather. I stopped it on leather with some jewelry rouge for a while and it made a difference. I know if I were to work at it longer it would be even better.

I did not get a pricking iron. I wish I were able but maybe next month. I am making a knife sheath for a knife I bought back in 1981 from a guy just getting started (actually I bought 3 different knives from him).The sheath it came in (he said he was not a sheath maker) had copper rivets. The knife of course has some brass. Well, as you can imagine, there was a lustrous green buildup in places. Hence, the current sheath project!

Making the stitch holes through the area with the welt is giving me some difficulty. I'm wondering if maybe my awl is still not sharp enough. I really have not wanted to take a hammer to the awl. I tried it with bees wax to no avail. I do have a drill press, and I'm aware of issues with the exit holes, so that makes me a little Leary.

Any ideas are always welcome!