Repair 22-watt circline fluorescent magnifying task lamp

[esantoro]

Hi Mike,

I tried wiring everything up. It didn't work. I'm beginning to think that I my need to fashion a starter plug. Is this something easy to do?

Ed

[TwinOaks]

Fashion one? No, not easy to do. Purchase one at Lowe's or Home Depot? Very easy. Install is straight forward, as it is in series with the 'hot' side of the ballast output. You could actually just wire a starter directly to the wiring, with no socket/base, but this is not a safe thing to do for the fixture. However, for testing, it would work.

There's a few variables to check on, too. First, ensure that you have a good lamp- which I will presume you've done. Second, make sure the lamp and ballast are suited to each other. A "rapid start' lamp typically has problems running on an 'instant start' ballast, and vice-versa.

The only thing that really comes to mind is that if the ballast has normal output, that the wiring is allowing the ballast to complete the circuit without the lamp, or is otherwise bypassing the lamp.

[esantoro]

Hi Mike,

It's time for round two:The starter plug

Wiring the ballast without a starter plug did not work.

One thing I think I learned: The Plug-In ballast does not pass through the full amount of current. I know this because the original setup allows for two additional devices to be plugged in to the base of the lamp, before the current ever reached the electronic ballast that originally was installed near the circline bulb and not near the base.

With the new plug-in ballast, nothing plugged in to the base sockets would run. Tried a dremel and there was just a light humming. This tells me that the plug-in ballast can be used to power only a 22-watt circline bulb.

Should I simply look for a starter plug stamped "22 watt"? All I have to go on are these two links:

http://www.affordaproducts.com/Images

/SS022.jpg

http://www.bulbs.com/eSpec.aspx?ID=9487&am...ts&RefId=16

I may also have to get some kind of wire harness to attach to the two prongs sticking out of the ballast.

Thanks,

Ed

Edited January 26, 2009 by esantoro

[TwinOaks]

Hi Mike,

It's time for round two:The starter plug...

I may also have to get some kind of wire harness to attach to the two prongs sticking out of the ballast.

I'm hoping the ballast above should have been "starter". Yep those are the starters for your 22w lamp. I was really thinking the new ballast you got for it was all electronic and didn't need one.

You are correct that you'll need a 'harness' for it. It's called a 'flourescent starter base', and consists of a base with two keyhole on a curve (for twisting it in) and two leads. If the lamp previously had a starter, then you already have your base. If not, I found a part # for you: LW00285 (several manufacturers make them, this is what I usually have on the truck) but I can't find a picture of it. Google it and click the first link. There's no pic, but I believe it's what you need. They are available at Lowe's, HomeDepot, Ace, etc.

I am really wishing we were closer so I could just drop by and beat the silly thing into submission.

M

[esantoro]

I'm hoping the ballast above should have been "starter". Yep those are the starters for your 22w lamp. I was really thinking the new ballast you got for it was all electronic and didn't need one.

You are correct that you'll need a 'harness' for it. It's called a 'flourescent starter base', and consists of a base with two keyhole on a curve (for twisting it in) and two leads. If the lamp previously had a starter, then you already have your base. If not, I found a part # for you: LW00285 (several manufacturers make them, this is what I usually have on the truck) but I can't find a picture of it. Google it and click the first link. There's no pic, but I believe it's what you need. They are available at Lowe's, HomeDepot, Ace, etc.

I am really wishing we were closer so I could just drop by and beat the silly thing into submission.

M

It's good to know I can get everything at Lowe's because I have a few days left to return the planer (that idea is just not going to work out), which I got at Lowe's, so I can do everything in one stop.

The lamp's original setup had everything on a circuit board, so there was no need for a harness, which I'll have to buy.Thanks for the part number.

There is a little black cylinder on that circuit board. It looks like a miniature version of the starter plug in the pic I uploaded. I'm tempted to cut that off and see if it works just for the sake of experimentation. The stenciling on this little black cylinder reads: 200v 22 uf (the "u" is actually a symbol; it just looks like a "u").

The only other possibility is that the plug in Ballast I'm trying to get to work is faulty, which had never occurred to me.

Thanks again for helping me in the proper direction.

Ed

[esantoro]

here's a close-up of what I think is the starter plug soldered onto the circuit board that is the original electronic ballast for this lamp.

I've also attached a pic of the whole electronic ballast, just in case the starter plug is some other thingamajig on the circuit board.

Ed

[TwinOaks]

The 'uF' stands for 'micro-farads', and is commonly used to describe capacitance. It's possible that is only a capacitor. I found a pic of a similar item- this is a halogen lamp holder.

The starter base will have the same look (no rim around it - they're usually flat faced), but will be spaced for a starter. Incidentally, starters usually are mounted in one of these bases and are removable/replaceable as a maitainence item.

And a little note: Your macro photography is getting really good. You shouldn't have any issues anymore with closeups of leather goods.

Edited January 28, 2009 by TwinOaks

[esantoro]

The 'uF' stands for 'micro-farads', and is commonly used to describe capacitance. It's possible that is only a capacitor. I found a pic of a similar item- this is a halogen lamp holder.

The starter base will have the same look (no rim around it - they're usually flat faced), but will be spaced for a starter. Incidentally, starters usually are mounted in one of these bases and are removable/replaceable as a maitainence item.

And a little note: Your macro photography is getting really good. You shouldn't have any issues anymore with closeups of leather goods.

I was also thinking that maybe that is a capacitor.

The more I looked at this circuit board, the more I started thinking that maybe the only problem is a blown fuse, but I don't have a good fuse for comparison. I think I'll go to Radio Shack tomorrow to see if they have these small fuses.

ed

[TwinOaks]

k.i.s.

easier to just check continuity across the fuse- take it out of it's holder, place on a nonconductive surface, set your volt meter to resistance, and that should tell you if it's good. With those little barrel fuses, you should be able to look at it and tell- if the little metal/foil piece is broken, it's bad. If it's solid, it's most likely good, but should still be checked with a v meter.

[esantoro]

k.i.s.

easier to just check continuity across the fuse- take it out of it's holder, place on a nonconductive surface, set your volt meter to resistance, and that should tell you if it's good. With those little barrel fuses, you should be able to look at it and tell- if the little metal/foil piece is broken, it's bad. If it's solid, it's most likely good, but should still be checked with a v meter.

For some reason, I don't trust my what my eyesight tells me. I couldn't see any broken foil. I didn't see any foil at all, so I tried the volt meter to check continuity. There wasn't any. No beeping.

If radio shack doesn't have these fuses, would Lowe's and Home Depot have them, or would I have to try a specialty shop for electrical parts? Is there a certain resistance rating I should not go beyond,or should I simply look for the same size barrel fuse?

Finally, I have a reason to learn how to use my soldering tools and materials.

Thanks,

Ed