tontotex Report post Posted June 17, 2015 Hi All So i have been reading a lot of posts on sewing machines and have purchased a Juki 1508 NH based on the information in this forum. The machine comes with a 190 needle system so my question on needles is which brand and point style to buy. The only clear pictures i can find on needles is a pdf from schmetz that shows the actual needle point and has examples of how the the stitching will look So are schmetz good reiiable needles or should I be looking for something different. When it comes to thread, is there a particular brand that is better than others...and should i be looking at bonded nylon or polyester. I would like something that mimics a hand stitched look similar to tiger thread or lin cable ( if thats possible) the machine will be used mainly for wallets , small accessory items, handbags, veg tan belts and light luggage pieces. Most will incorporate piping or binding on the seams Thanks to all for posting and sharing your ideas ac. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 17, 2015 Use Schmetz needles if available in system 190, in either S or D point. S lays down an inline stitch that is perfect on top and slightly embedded on the bottom, with a tight hole that is like an inline chisel. Diamond points create a more surface oriented result, on the top and bottom and a wider hole. This more closely resembles hand stitching, in my opinion. Your results may vary. I would buy a pack of each type, in each size you intend to use, as availability dictates. Note, that the bottom stitches will all have a round pucker where the leather gets pushed down on the hole in the feed dog. Compound feed machines cannot duplicate the look of hand stitching on the bottom. Only a needle and awl machine comes close. The 1508NH is able to handle up to #207 bonded thread. Nylon is the usual thread used in all but outdoor goods. Then, you can upgrade to bonded polyester at a higher price per spool. I recommend using #24 (180) needles with #207, on top and in the bobbin. Or, use 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. You can sew longer with thinner bobbin thread, at a loss of just 25% strength per stitch. Do not use a smaller bobbin thread if strength is of importance (holsters, double leather belts, saddle bags). FYI: #207, the largest thread the 1508NH can handle properly, is less than hald the diameter of Tiger thread. In order to sew with a similar thickness of thread, you would need to move up to either a 441 clone (Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew, etc), an Adler 205-370, or a needle and awl machine (e.g. Campbell Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch), which are not beginner machines. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tontotex Report post Posted June 17, 2015 Hi Wiz and thanks for your help, not only on this post, but for all of the help you give everyone. I based most of my decision on a post you made in the past on wallets etc http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35319 ac Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
