Opinions / Advice Requested

[tontotex]

Hi All

So i have been reading a lot of posts on sewing machines and have purchased a Juki 1508 NH based on the information in this forum.

The machine comes with a 190 needle system so my question on needles is which brand and point style to buy.

The only clear pictures i can find on needles is a pdf from schmetz that shows the actual needle point and has examples of how the the stitching will look

So are schmetz good reiiable needles or should I be looking for something different.

When it comes to thread,

is there a particular brand that is better than others...and should i be looking at bonded nylon or polyester.

I would like something that mimics a hand stitched look similar to tiger thread or lin cable ( if thats possible)

the machine will be used mainly for wallets , small accessory items, handbags, veg tan belts and light luggage pieces.

Most will incorporate piping or binding on the seams

Thanks to all for posting and sharing your ideas

ac.

[Wizcrafts]

Use Schmetz needles if available in system 190, in either S or D point. S lays down an inline stitch that is perfect on top and slightly embedded on the bottom, with a tight hole that is like an inline chisel. Diamond points create a more surface oriented result, on the top and bottom and a wider hole. This more closely resembles hand stitching, in my opinion. Your results may vary. I would buy a pack of each type, in each size you intend to use, as availability dictates.

Note, that the bottom stitches will all have a round pucker where the leather gets pushed down on the hole in the feed dog. Compound feed machines cannot duplicate the look of hand stitching on the bottom. Only a needle and awl machine comes close.

The 1508NH is able to handle up to #207 bonded thread. Nylon is the usual thread used in all but outdoor goods. Then, you can upgrade to bonded polyester at a higher price per spool. I recommend using #24 (180) needles with #207, on top and in the bobbin. Or, use 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. You can sew longer with thinner bobbin thread, at a loss of just 25% strength per stitch. Do not use a smaller bobbin thread if strength is of importance (holsters, double leather belts, saddle bags).

FYI: #207, the largest thread the 1508NH can handle properly, is less than hald the diameter of Tiger thread. In order to sew with a similar thickness of thread, you would need to move up to either a 441 clone (Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew, etc), an Adler 205-370, or a needle and awl machine (e.g. Campbell Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch), which are not beginner machines.

[tontotex]

Hi Wiz and thanks for your help, not only on this post, but for all of the help you give everyone. I based most of my decision on a post you made in the past on wallets etc

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35319

ac