Newbie Stitching Question

[AnnaG]

I've been doing a lot of reading gearing up for my first real project and I had just a few newbie questions!

First off, I've read about gluing edges of leather and then stitching but I've also read about 'sticky wax' (still browsing recipes for that) and how that 'locks' the stitch into place. Do you do both or just one or the other? I'd like to work with linen and possibly mess with some artificial sinew.

Secondly, if I were to sew a soft bag, like a pouch, would using the sticky-wax route for a strong stitch be the best route or would that possibly make the seam too stiff for a soft bag (like a belt pouch sort of thing).

Thanks in advance everyone, this forum is just a treasure trove of information, I've been reading for hours :D

[thekid77]

I've been doing a lot of reading gearing up for my first real project and I had just a few newbie questions!

First off, I've read about gluing edges of leather and then stitching but I've also read about 'sticky wax' (still browsing recipes for that) and how that 'locks' the stitch into place. Do you do both or just one or the other? I'd like to work with linen and possibly mess with some artificial sinew.

Secondly, if I were to sew a soft bag, like a pouch, would using the sticky-wax route for a strong stitch be the best route or would that possibly make the seam too stiff for a soft bag (like a belt pouch sort of thing).

Thanks in advance everyone, this forum is just a treasure trove of information, I've been reading for hours :D

Hi there, maybe I can clear some questions up....

First, any time things are stitched together, they are usually contact cemented together first with a contact cement such as DAP Weldwood (red or green can)....contact cementing two edges of leather together will add strength to the seam and will keep the leather in place while it is being stitched....

Second, I believe the sticky wax you are referring to is beeswax.....you can buy pre-waxed thread, or just get a cake of beeswax which is readily available from any leather supplier and wax the thread yourself. The wax does help to prevent the thread from slipping while it is being stitched.

So, to answer your question, for most applications, it is necessary to cement your leather edges together with a contact cement, and then to stitch your project together with a thread of your choosing, whether it be linen, polyester, or sinew.

Hope this clears things up!! Have fun!!

[ChiefFilipino]

Secondly, if I were to sew a soft bag, like a pouch, would using the sticky-wax route for a strong stitch be the best route or would that possibly make the seam too stiff for a soft bag (like a belt pouch sort of thing).

I have also just begun leather working and I have found that contact cement is flexible and rubbery. It does make it a touch stiffer, I guess I would describe it as more rubbery. I am not anywhere near an expert but I have hand stitched a few things together without cementing them. It took me a long time but to hold it together I used binder clips.

Hope that helps.

[TinkerTailor]

All hand sewing should be done with at least lightly waxed thread as the thread takes alot of abuse being pulled through the holes over and over. A machine stitch just pulls a loop through not the whole thread. This causes a lot less thread damage, waxing isn't as necessary here.. The wax also lubricates the thread and helps prevent fraying.

[AnnaG]

I dug through my bookmarks and found a little more info on the 'sticky wax' I'm talking about, it's an either Rosin - Beeswax mixture or a Pitch - Rosin - Beeswax mix (less common given the scarceness of pitch these days). It seems to be primarily used by shoemakers. I was curious about this because this mix 'locks' the thread into the hole because the wax melts with the friction of stitching and then cools and resets again. It's also called 'Code'.

I thought it might be sensible to incorporate it into regular leatherworking because it seems very durable and holds fast, in addition to the stitch hole made with a diamond awl tightening up around the thread.

http://wherearetheelves.net/making-code/

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33120
http://aands.org/raisedheels/Techniques/coad.php

I have a bit of linen thread and a cake of beeswax leftover from bookbinding and I'm going to sort through my leather scraps and maybe try and make a little something today, practice some stitch technique.

[oldhat]

Hi Anna, obviously there is nothing wrong with a little experimentation and by all means go ahead and try your sticky wax idea, however i do rather feel you are trying to fix something that is not broken. For most veg tan projects i have never found a need for such a product and to the best of my knowledge i have not known many other leatherworkers to talk about using it either , waxed thread being the norm. But as i said there is nothing wrong with giving it a go if you feel you want to. Good luck.

[DavidL]

I've read about code too.

beeswax by itself will hold, code would probably be "extra strength".

machine stitching without wax by itself may last years, saddle stitch may last 25 years or more with beeswax or whatever.

Anything you choose will last a long time

Edited June 28, 2015 by DavidL

[AnnaG]

Thanks for the help everyone!

Oldhat, I'd like to build stuff that can be used in an outdoor application without worry that it's going to rot or fray, from what I've read a quality linen thread and beeswax will hold up like there's no tomorrow, but the code sounded like it would add an extra level of protection and durability. I'm hesitant to use poly thread because of it's inherit slipperiness, I'm also wanting to hand-stitch, I really enjoy working with my hands.

I'm especially wanting to build some harnesses and collars for my hunting dogs. We go through all kinds of damp mud and muck, I clean and condition my leather on the regular but any additional measure of toughness can't hurt.

Theoretically, if I decided to use code, I could buy a waxed thread and then just wax it in addition?

I'll be ordering some of this thread soon, which was recommended by another forum member:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221455736903?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=520324821693&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I also found this seller with Barbour's for what seems like a very good price (considering trying it?):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Barbours-Linen-Thread-/281715973986

[oldhat]

Hi Anna, i respect all your opinions , but would also like to suggest that if you have never tried waxed bonded poly thread like ritza 25, you might want to give it a go before ruling it out completely, Have you seen Nigel Armitages you tube videos about stitching , he uses nothing else and achieves very high standard leather products, please do not take my comments the wrong way, i am in no way saying what you are doing is wrong, i am just saying give the poly thread a go and see what you think, all the best.

Oldhat.

[thekid77]

Anna, I use Ritza 25 Tiger Thread on everything I make....it is a braided poly that comes pre-waxed to prevent slipping.....nothing comes close to how strong this stuff is......the nice thing about poly is that the ends of the thread can be burned to prevent slipping.....this is what works for me, and the stuff can easily be found on ebay if you ever want to try it

Edited June 30, 2015 by thekid77