phampton123 Report post Posted July 10, 2015 Hi, I am a total newb. I will be hand stitching together 2 pieces of 4-5 oz leather. I will mark a stitching groove in both pieces. Then use a Japanese pricking iron for the holes. Do I pound through both pieces together with the iron? If I make holes on each price seperately. How can I be sure the stitching holes will line up together nicely? Or that one piece doesn't have too many holes? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted July 10, 2015 normally you only mark and punch from one side then use your awl to finish the holes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phampton123 Report post Posted July 10, 2015 Thanks. If I make stitching holes in two seperate pieces, how do I get both sets of holes to line up for stitching? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted July 10, 2015 with a lot of prayer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thekid77 Report post Posted July 11, 2015 Thanks. If I make stitching holes in two seperate pieces, how do I get both sets of holes to line up for stitching? watch this video and it will answer your question... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted July 12, 2015 (edited) What Halitech is describing and what all the Nigel Armitage videos show is classic British saddle stitching using a European pricking iron (Dixon, Blanchard, etc.). A pricking iron is used only to mark the position and angle of the holes that you then complete with a diamond shaped stitching awl. The mark the pricking iron leaves helps guide the awl but you need to practice a LOT to ensure that you approach the leather with the awl at EXACTLY a right angle to the leather or it will exit the back side of the leather irregularly, degrading the appearance of the stitches on the back side. But Japanese-style stitching is quite different. Japanese stitching chisels aren't designed to be used like European pricking irons. They're designed to punch through all layers of the leather you are stitching. This means that an awl and the precision required to use it effectively is not required. You do need to make sure that you hold the chisel perpendicular to the leather so that the chisel holes will line up on the back side, but I find that far less challenging that making those pesky exiting awl holes line up with the British stitching style. No problem whatever punching through both layers of 4-5 Oz. leather with a good, sharp, polished Japanese stitching chisel. The only time you would need to use the method in Nigel's video (above) is when the thickness of the layers of leather exceed the depth of the chisel's tines. Then you proceed just as Nigel demonstrates, but once again you don't need an awl. One last thing. British Saddle makers only use a stitching groover when the stitches will be exposed to high friction or wear. Brits just pull the stiches tight and that usually makes them lie far enough below the leather's surface for all practical purposes. You didn't mention the nature of your project but if the stitches won't be exposed to high wear, you might try eschewing the stitching groover. I actually prefer beauty of fine hand stitching that isn't lying in a groove. Take a close look at some of Nigel's beautiful work to see what I mean. To me, stitching groovers are way over-used. In my opinion, they are a crutch for folks who can't stitch well because even slightly errant stiches will fall into that groove. Try using your Japanese stitching chisel as it was designed to be used. You'll like it, I guarantee! And please tell us how you do whatever you decide. Michelle Edited July 12, 2015 by silverwingit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites