Beveling Question

[Kerryanne]

Hello,

This is my first project where I am attempting beveling and then burnishing. Normally, on the few projects I have completed, I have simply burnished the ends.

The leather I used was 0.14" (3.6mm) thick and 3/4" (19mm) wide. The beveler I used was a No3 from Tandy. I am really inexperienced, but this doesn't look right to me. Have I used the wrong angle or the wrong tool or will it look better when burnished? How do you know what size skiver to use?

Link to imgur album

Example for those who don't want to look at Imgur:

Edited July 23, 2015 by Kerryanne

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

Different makers use different numbers and Tandy has been known to change their numbers as well.
As I understand it, the thinner the leather, the smaller the edge beveler you use.

Go here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101

Hidepounder has a fabulous handout for finishing edges. It is the second pinned topic in the "How do I do that?" forum. His handout and that topic should be able to answer most all of your questions.

And Welcome to the Club!

[Kerryanne]

Thank you, I am hooked! This is my 3rd project in 2 weeks, plus all the time I spent before hand looking it all up. My first belt is wonk and frankly awful but my partner loves it and he wears it proudly (whilst I cringe in the background because I am a perfectionist).

I know I have to burnish it, but what do you think of the picture? Too much beveled off or does it look OK?

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

Too hard to tell from the picture. Burnish it up and see how it turns out. Make a list of the things you like and dislike about how it turned out. Work on improving against the dislike list.

Remember, you will always be your own worst critic. Mistakes happen, just do your best and let the rest sort itself out. Everything you do is practice to be better at what you are doing.

[Kerryanne]

You are right, and burnished up and I often find even if there are small faults no one turns down free hand made leather goods!

Thank you.

[gmace99]

Looks ok depends what you are making. I would prefer a bit less of and would use a Dixons number 2.

It should still look good when you finish rubbing the edges.

Some items look good with a little amount taken of and others with a lot.

If I was making a belt then I would use a number 2 and if I was making a pair of stirrup leathers I would take a size 2 of the bottom side and a number 4or5 of the top side.

Where in the UK are you?

[Kerryanne]

I am making a dog lead. Spent the last wee while figuring out how to twist them and make them look right. I bought a Tandy No2 this afternoon. I will have a look for Dixons.

I'm currently in Halifax moving down to Oxford in a few weeks. I'm from Penicuik outside Edinburgh though

[gmace99]

The reason I asked where you are from is.

I am a saddle/leathercraft instructor and if you like you can come to my workshop for a morning and I will show you how to make your Lead. This is a free offer for you and a friend.

I am in Tamworth Staffordshire until August the 15th. After that I will be retiring back home to sunny Scotland. I have bought a building to continue doing my teaching.

If you would like to do this after 15th August it would be at my building in Dunoon this is about an hour from Glasgow.

My website for England is www.uksaddlery,com

[Kerryanne]

That is incredibly generous! I would be crazy not to take you up on that. We are about 2.5 hours from you, would you be OK with Tuesday? My partner would have come down with me as I can't drive. What time is best with you? Thank you very much.

[gmace99]

Tuesday is ok just phone any of the numbers on my sites and we can arrange this. I am sure your partner will have fun making something also.

[Kerryanne]

I'll give you a call tomorrow!

[gmace99]

cool

[Art]

Kerryanne,

Back in the days of yesteryear (1st Qtr 20th Century and before), leatherworkers were either in the harness business (you can lump saddles in here) or the shoe business. Tools were made for those trades, and a lot of tools crossed over. Bevelers were made in 0 to 8, but the 3 to 5 were the most common, and they were BIG, I have one #8 as a curiosity and it could be actively used as a router. Tandy and the few others tend to keep with the old standard, and they run BIG. They say (who the hell are they?), for 6 oz (2.4mm) leather you need to use a #3. Not so today except for harness or saddlework. For decorative and daily use objects, the #0 or #1 (old school) is usually better. New makers like Ron's or Barry King (US makers) tend to be a bit more realistic in sizing and even make edgers for 1 oz or 2 oz leather. Get a round bottom edger if you can, they are harder to sharpen but give a nicer edge. Also, Dixon edgers and C.S. Osborne edgers do not come sharp. but you have to learn to sharpen anyway (at least that's the way they see it, and what have apprentices got to do anyway?).

Art

[Kerryanne]

Cheers very much Art, that's really interesting. I am currently trying to find a decent book - youtube can only get you so far and I don't want to bug the forum ever time I get confused I really need to learn more.

[Art]

Hi Kerryanne,

Youtube is really pretty good. Ian Atkinson has quite a few good videos which I have used with the Boy Scouts. He also has about 4 pattern packs that are reasonably priced on his etsy page, although if he doesn't watch himself, a bunch of Cornwall comes through. Nigel Armitage has some very good instructional videos that show a lot of hand stitching among other things. There are some basic leathercraft books that Al Stohlman and a few others did for Tandy back in the day. They are good and you should be able to find them on eBay.

Art

[Red Cent]

Being a little particular with the edge, I spend about 25-30 minutes with a block sander (220 grit) on a belt developing a very smooth rounded edge. That way when you burnish, the U shaped groove will touch all of it evenly. You will wind up with a nice symmetrical edge. I use a small rag to dampen the leather edge and a grinder converted to a burnisher. I use a #3 on about any thickness of leather.

[Kerryanne]

Thanks Red, your stuff looks lovely from your pic, thanks for the tip about sanding.

Art, I have used a lot of Ian Atkinson tutorials he is really good. I wish I could have joined the Scouts and not the Brownies when I was a kid. I want to learn how to splice better and make decorative whipping, pretty sure they do that in the Scouts too.

Edited July 25, 2015 by Kerryanne

[Art]

We only teach the "Basic Six" now, but they can go further if they want.

You're a little old for Scouts, so pick up a copy of Bruce Grant's Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding used for 15 pounds or so and it has more in it than you could ever want.

Art

[Kerryanne]

Had a brilliant day with George at his shop, wee legend that the man is. Edging is sorted, I just need some practice! Need to get better at handling a round knife, it's a lot harder than it looks and the only thing that's really given me trouble so far.

Partner is now bugging me for a glasses case

Edited July 30, 2015 by Kerryanne

[Oldtoolsniper]

Round knives are fun once you become comfortable with them and can get them freaky sharp. First thing I do is make a case for everyone I buy when it's ready to go back to work. I buy used ones and put them back in serviceable condition. The first thing it cuts is the leather for its new sheath.

Just remember the the hand holding the leather NEVER EVER gets in the cutting path of that blade. Stop and rethink that cut if you feel compelled to put that other hand in front of that knife, dont do it even for a split second. My last knife mishap (not leather related) cost $33,000 for surgery, three permanently numb fingers, and three months of not being able to use my left hand. It happens in a split second of not thinking.