Members DavidL Posted August 3, 2015 Author Members Report Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) Steps to Cut straight lines: (1) Obtain a high quality round or head knife. Make sure the knife is comfortable and fits in the cutter's hand. (2) learn how to sharpen the round knife. The sharpest knife cuts the cleanest. (3) learn how to cut with it. I personally do not use a guide to cut, with the exception of fringe. Cutting straps or belts up to three inches, I use a draw gauge and a leather clamp (sometimes referred to as a third hand). Elbow bent and close to your side, off hand BEHIND the blade and pushing the blade will give a person more control over the knife as well control of the cut. On a long straight cut, the more blade in the leather (up to half the blade) keeps the the cut truer. Keeping the blade perpendicular to the leather eliminates under or over cutting the leather. Holding the cut piece BEHIND the blade with the off hand controls the leather and keeps tension on the piece being cut. Box cutters, carpet knives, utility knives, exacto knives razor knives and any other knife that is pulled are NOT appropriate knives for a leather worker. The blades can be weak and bend. A hard spot in the leather can cause the blade to jump and if the knife is being pulled the blade comes back towards the cutter. The book "Leather Tools, How to Use Them How to Sharpen Them" by Al Stholman is an excellent reference guide to build the leather worker's skills. JOE Im not getting what you mean by using a draw gauge and clamp. Like this? 5:10 I have found with a japanese leather chisel knife I can angle it 90 degrees and the blade will stay straight since it is digging in the cutting board guiding the cut. A round knife may work better though since so much length can be in contact of the leather. I may have to pick one up. The thing I have to tackle now is cutting on a pen mark. Edited August 3, 2015 by DavidL Quote
Members joe59 Posted August 3, 2015 Members Report Posted August 3, 2015 A draw gauge and a strap cutter are the same tool. The wooden one used in the video is great for lighter weight leathers. Do NOT square up the leather as shown in the video. When I am going to cut straps from a new hide, I use a long straight edge to square up the side along the back and mark it with a lay out tool (scratch awl, stylist, a ball point pen without any ink, ect..). A deep line is easier to see and can act a guide. Use a sponge and water to dampen hard veg tanned leather. I use my round knife to square up the back. Before I start cutting, I make sure the knife is SHARP and freshly stropped. Set the draw gauge to the desired width and start cutting. Once again, a sharp blade is a must. When you can get a hold of the strap, hold it to keep pressure on it. The strap can be held by hand, clamped to the bench, nailed to the bench, or get someone to hold it with pliers. Club49, the floor is never a good place to cut leather. You are hunched over and in an uncomfortable position. Quote
Members club49 Posted August 4, 2015 Members Report Posted August 4, 2015 Thank you for the video. I guess I will have to use the kitchen table when my wife is asleep. Jim Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted August 4, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted August 4, 2015 WHAT THE .. @#$!%#! So, a 7 min video, where the guy doesn't even pick up a straight edge until 2 1/2 minutes, and then 'eyeballs' the cut anyway? Alrightey, then ... at least I didn't kill the whole 7 minutes (FF to end). Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted August 4, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted August 4, 2015 Oh, and... I have a 6 foot aluminum straight edge and a utility knife with disposable blades. It's worked for years. Total time sharpening the blade, none. No, I don't have a video showing how to use it Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
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