Trying To Get Started Having Some Issues

[Obeliske]

I'm attempting to get into leatherworking to make leather armor for a number of reasons and for a number of different uses

-Larping - In this use it must be durable as people will be wearing and using it. I'd like to be able to do fantasy based and historically accurate (two different categories) as people request it.

-Cosplay - This would be purely cosmetic things. Primarily fantasy oriented pulled from games.

-Steampunk - This one's kind of my baby it falls into both the previous uses mostly I'd like to know how to affix the heavier objects (gauges and things of this nature that are "top heavy") without having to worry about them falling off

I'm having several issues getting into it. I visited my local Tandy merchant he was less then useful not knowing how to go about nor having any ideas on how to go about making armor (though I did pick up a few books on treating and sewing leather as well as making cases). I havn't been able to find any information on how to actually get or use a pattern. The cosplay info I've found has used many different materials which I should be able to sub for leather in most cases but it's not all that helpful anyway. I cannot find any real information on making historically accurate leather armor at all. Ultimately I'm just looking for information and some patterns with some how to's to get me started.

A few questions.

Do I need to go about getting forms and if so how do I get them? I'm a larger guy is there an adjustable form somewhere I can get as I can't really use my body to make armor for other people what with being six and a half feet tall and I'd love to be making the armor for other people.

I've got lots of ideas for spaulders and pauldrons, bracers and shin guards but nothing for how to do a helmet, body, or feet where can I find some info on these?

Are there any really useful odd's and ends that I aught to be looking for to grab that aren't strictly leatherworking ie. I've seen references to vacuuming for masks?

How do I go about taking measurements for the various body parts of a person? With a form it's not as hard but it is generic and I'd like to be making custom things for my friends so how do I do this? I'm especially worried about the female form esp. around the chest area.

How do I know what kind of leather (both animal and gauge) to use on a specific project?

Are there any books I aught to look at getting that would be helpful?

A couple good things.

I'm very close to a Tandy store and several tannery's so leather isn't an issue.

Money isn't a big issue as this is something I've wanted to do for a long time and have no problem spending money to get into the hobby.

[johnv474]

(my replies here lose their formatting, so sorry for the wall of text).

1). First, welcome. Second, you are asking the right questions, but they are big questions--more than I could answer in one reply. Let's start with the basics, because everything will build from that. You need to learn how to draw out, measure, mark, cut, and sew. For decorative elements, you probably want to learn to dye, paint, and possibly tool/carve/stamp. For reinforcement of seams, you will want to learn to glue, set rivets and snaps.

2) To learn to draw out/design, you need to do some reading. Use Pinterest or Web searches for projects you like and figure out their component pieces. Get copies of AL Stohlman's books The Art of Making Leather Cases, volumes 1-3. The first volume covers the main points, then the next two volumes cover more specialized cases. (Armor is, after all, just a case.). Then, for sewing, read AL Stohlman's book The Art of Hand Sewing Leather, watch Nigel Armitage's excellent saddle stitching videos, Leodis Leather's excellent stitching video, and read the Sewing subforum on this site.

3) With just those resources you can develop the rest of what you want. For tools, you want a razor knife (for now) with many fresh blades. You also want some midweight waxed nylon or polyester thread, about .030" or 0.8 mm diameter. You also need some harness needles, maybe 4-6 of them, approximately size 2-3, and a scratch awl, and a carpenters metal square ruler. You want a sewing awl with about a 3/32" wide blade. To start you need under 30 dollars (Canadian) in tools. The rest of the tools are to make your work easier or more consistent or to reinforce or are decorative.

4) Skip vacuum forming, exotic leathers, fancy tools and supplies, and kits. Make a few quivers, sheaths, scabbards, bracers, and so forth, to get familiar with the beginning, middle, and ending steps while using smaller pieces of leather... because you'll make mistakes and the impact will be less that way.

More another time. Also, check out Prince Armory if you haven't yet. Beautiful.

[johnv474]

5) For leather weights, know that leather thickness is measured by ounces per square foot, and since leather is imperfect, this measurement is given in two numbers. For example, 7-8 Oz leather is 7-8 ounces per square foot. All you need to know is that 8 ounce is 1/8" thick. Leather ranges from roughly 1 Oz to 14 ounce, with some thinner and thicker examples. Most leather belts are about 8 Oz. Most nice shoes and work boots are made from 2-6 ounce. Books are bound with 1-2 ounce or so. The leather sole on a shoe is about 9-10 ounce. Thicker is stronger but heavier. You could have uses for anything from 2-8 Oz, so I'd say pick up something lighter like 3-4 or 4-5 and something heavier like 6-7 or 7-8. A single shoulder of each would let you knock out a pile of smaller projects and practice pieces.

[mlapaglia]

I know its not metric but an ounce of leather can also be measured by thickness. A piece of leather 1 sq foot that weighs 1 ounce is 1/64th of an inch thick. 5-6 oz is 5/64-6/64 (3/32) of an inch thick. You can measure it with a gauge or a caliper. It converts to millimeter but I live in the USA so its sold by ounces/64ths here. john474 above alluded to the thickness = ounces but I figured Id spell it out for you.

Here is a chart to show MM to fraction to Decimal conversion of ounces of leather.

Michael

Edited August 12, 2015 by mlapaglia

[Obeliske]

I picked up the 500$ tool set at Tandy (it's on sale half price) as well as 2 strips of 9oz leather (on sale again). I do want to pick up a smaller gauge say 3-4 for decorative purposes and that didn't occur to me until I'd already left. I've already picked up cases one and read it front to back as well as hand sewing. I don't want to use glue so I need to manufacture or get my hands on a leather clamp of some sort. The kit didn't come with a 2 or 4 hole punch for sewing so I have to pick up one of them. I picked up some dyes and wax for sealing some heavy gauge thread and needles.

I'm good on the marking, cutting, and sewing but the designing and drawing out I'm completely at a loss for. I've looked at some designs people have drawn out online and to be quite frank many of them look like a 4 year old drew them and many more don't have sizes/measurements it's just a crude drawing. I've decided to start with a gladiator outfit and with the pauldron as I have some very good ideas and it should be fairly simple to do.

I think I'm in a pretty good spot but if somebody could direct me to a step by step or something of that nature for the starting stuff as well as some easy to make designs I'd appreciate it. As well I need some help on finding a guide on the proper way to transfer/draw out the pieces and how to design a piece. I want to start with something a little more advanced then a bracer as I think multiple small pieces is a better way to go if I screw up its easy to fix a new one

[mlapaglia]

Im not sure why you do not want to glue but it is the best way to hold the leather together while you stitch. Its been done this way for many many years. You might consider using a glue anyway. You will find it makes a better looking project and it is easier than clamping the leather together while you try to sew it.

Just my opinion.

Michael

[Obeliske]

I have considered it and while I'm sure it would make it easier I've decided at least at the start I'd rather not. That may change in the future when I see just how hard it is but right now I have no interest in it. I've seen some good videos on the Tandy site at this point about how to make and transfer a picture for designs but I have yet to find anything on how to make/get patterns. I'm sure they are out there but just having a heck of a time getting them!

I met a guy on Kajiji getting out of the hobby he's selling me all his metal (rivets, buckles etc.) at 2/3 Tandy prices as well as a bag of scraps and a few pieces of leather (especially excited about the white as I wont have to dye it myself). He's also going to show me some basic stuff which I will then take home to practice.

Tomorrow I will be going in to Tandy to pick up a much thinner piece of leather for sheathing/decorating my heavier stuff. As well as the tools I'm missing (rivet setter, 2-4 hole sewing punch) and then it's off to Micheals for tracing paper and hopefully paraffin wax and beeswax.

A few things I'm wondering about is there a way to make a soft inner liner (removable) so people don't have to wear cloth inside it if wearing it for larping but can pull it out and put in something thicker for winter? I have a group of people I'm going to join that larps year round and it gets to -40 here I'd like people to be able to use the same armor summer and winter. Are extreme colds something I will have to worry about if I harden the leather?

Is it a good idea to buy a form for making pieces and is there a form I can buy that's adjustable? I myself and 6.5 feet tall 300lb monster and I'm fairly certain if I make a form of my chest it wont fit my 130lb 5'8 roommate.

Are there any books I can/should pick up on how to make leather armor for cosplay or really anything?

Any help would be appreciated as I'm hoping to get started by the weekend.

Obeliske

Edited August 12, 2015 by Obeliske

[camano ridge]

Obeliske, not sure what kit you bought, does it not have a stitching groover, awl and overstitch wheel . That is what you need for stitching unless you want to use pricking irons. Here is one group of patterns http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=46571&hl=armor&page=10 go to post 135 to down load the pattern pack. Here is a downloadable book with armor patterns. I believe this guy has come out with a second book with more patterns. www.lederkraft.com/freebook If you search the forums here there are patterns for different pieces of armor, however it takes a while to search through all the threads asking for patterns. DO you have a style or period of helmet you are looking for?

Edited August 13, 2015 by camano ridge

[mlapaglia]

Google sewing male mannequin adjustable You will find several kinds. Some are one size only and others are 2-4 size adjustable. I have yet to see a single one that fits a large range of sizes.

Seriously, glue the leather. Its not worth reinventing the wheel. You do not have to listen to this advice but from my point of view it seems silly to ignore the better way to do something for reasons you are not willing to explain. Its your live and all I can do is offer the advice. Like all free advice its worth what you are paying for it.

Michael