Members dickf Posted December 1, 2008 Members Report Posted December 1, 2008 I use a drill to get the diameter of the slot and to make the top and bottom holes, then join them using a wood chisel. The chisel is so sharp, it makes easy work of leather, and the lines stay perfectly straight. Great holsters - I like the 1st one the best! Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
Members Peterk Posted December 1, 2008 Author Members Report Posted December 1, 2008 I use a drill to get the diameter of the slot and to make the top and bottom holes, then join them using a wood chisel. The chisel is so sharp, it makes easy work of leather, and the lines stay perfectly straight. Great holsters - I like the 1st one the best! A chisel! Great idea, I will give that a try. Thank you. Quote
Members TexasJack Posted December 2, 2008 Members Report Posted December 2, 2008 Those really look good! Quote
Members Peterk Posted December 2, 2008 Author Members Report Posted December 2, 2008 Those really look good! Thanks much! Quote
mliebs8 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Posted December 2, 2008 I love the first color, your work looks excellent. I agree with ArtS, it's time to move on to Hermann Oak or W&C. Quote
Members Peterk Posted December 3, 2008 Author Members Report Posted December 3, 2008 I love the first color, your work looks excellent. I agree with ArtS, it's time to move on to Hermann Oak or W&C. Thanks! I just made a purchase today but just making a jump to Zack White premium grade with pasted backs for now as I've heard great things about them, and I need funds for new dyes and such to play with. Quote
Members MikePatterson Posted December 3, 2008 Members Report Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) Peter your work is outstanding!!!! If I may be so bold but I have to ask how to you get the mold you are getting on the Sig and the Kimber. Who cares about dying, edging or sewing !!! the form and fit is where the work and time is and you have it in a class of your on. How do you do it. Keep up the good work it is super. Thanks for any advise you can pass on !!! Mike Edited December 3, 2008 by MikePatterson Quote
Members Peterk Posted December 3, 2008 Author Members Report Posted December 3, 2008 Peter your work is outstanding!!!!If I may be so bold but I have to ask how to you get the mold you are getting on the Sig and the Kimber. Who cares about dying, edging or sewing !!! the form and fit is where the work and time is and you have it in a class of your on. How do you do it. Keep up the good work it is super. Thanks for any advise you can pass on !!! Mike Hi Mike, Thanks so much for the positive comments! I take my time with any craft/hobby I take on, which is also why I don't think I could ever mass-produce these holsters to make money because it would take me too long to make one. After stitching is done, I dunk the entire holster into a bath of warm water mixed with a couple of drops of dishwashing detergent. After soaking it for about 10 seconds, I take it out and let dry to the point where the leather is cool and turning pale (dried look), then I stick the gun into the holster and match the outside lines of the gun to the stitch lines so they're parallel; this is where extra attention afford to laying out the stitch line before hand pays off. At this point I pull out my freehand stitch groover (pic below) and use the blunt rubber covered end to start the molding around the trigger guard and bottom of the gun. I don't mold much the top of the gun because I need that space for the sight channel. The stitch groover was an accident but the rubber handle turned out to be a great tool because it won't harm the leather, but it is just hard enough to trace the lines of the gun. The little rubber "tip" at the end of the stitch groover is great for making indentations in the trigger guard to get that "lock" when the gun is inserted, where the barrel hood cutout is, and also great for general tracing around the pistol. I don't use my boning tool anymore except to smooth out larger areas where I find unwanted indents. The side facing my skin is not molded. After molding to my liking, hopefully the leather is dry enough, otherwise I leave the gun in there until the leather is mostly surface-dried and then I take the gun out and let holster dry overnight. Hope this helped! Quote
Members MikePatterson Posted December 3, 2008 Members Report Posted December 3, 2008 Thanks for your fast reply. I have owned a saddle shop/ gun shop now for over 30 years and all this time have done saddle and general leather repaire. I have a nice leather shop with all the tools and sewing machines you could want. In the last few months I got tired of my holster makers taking months to get a order togeather so I said I can do that I have all the tools how hard can it be.(HA) I'm having no trouble with orders and the customers really like my holsters they keep coming back for more I just can't get that pressed mold look that I keep trying for. I bought a couple of vaccum machines and they help but still not perfect I still do a lot of hand rubbing. What does the dish det. do I have heard of this but not tried it yet?? Any way one day I will post some of my stuff and maybe even get a question or too. I am new to this site and it is great!!!! Thanks again Mike. Quote
Members Tac Posted December 3, 2008 Members Report Posted December 3, 2008 Mike you will find a wealth of information and expertise on this site. There are many "Masters" of this art on this site and they all support and offer great help and advise when ever asked. Welcome. -Tac Quote -Tac "Well, I guess we did our good deed for the day Mayor"-Wyatt Earp "Tombstone"
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