New holster attempts

[Peterk]

Hello all, after making my first holster a couple of weeks ago and getting some great feedbacks and directions on method and tools, I've made three more for your review and critique... Finally finished using up the cheap leather from Tandy; can't wait to try better leather from Zack White (still learning so don't want to use Hermann Oak leather just yet. ). Please let me know what you think and constructive criticism will be greatly appreciated! Thanks much!

P225/P6 - My second holster attempt.

Kimber 1911 - My third attempt.

Makarov - My fourth. Still to be dyed, edge burnished, finish applied, and inside burnished. First attempt with snaps.

[abn]

These look absolutely professional grade to my eyes. Congratulations!

I love the color -- how do you achieve that light oiled brown shade? Maybe through dip-dyeing?

Great job, -Alex

[Peterk]

These look absolutely professional grade to my eyes. Congratulations!

I love the color -- how do you achieve that light oiled brown shade? Maybe through dip-dyeing?

Great job, -Alex

By "light oiled brown shade", do you mean the current color of the Makarov holster? That holster is not finished yet actually, and so far only has a thin coat of Neatsfoot Oil applied by hand-rubbing. I started applying the neatsfoot oil after checking out a custom maker's website and wanted to experiment. Once dried, it actually gives a dyed holster a nice and darker sheen, and then I apply satin sheen on top of that.

[Lobo]

Beautiful work there. Stitching appears about flawless. Edges look great.

Best regards,

Lobo Gun Leather, serious equipment for serious business.

[MADMAX22]

I agree with the others very good job. Very nice

[Tac]

Well done! Keep up the good work. I like the finish on the 1911 holster almost as much as the P225 holster!

[ArtS]

Really nice job! Very clean and professional. You can go straight to the Herman Oak or Wicket & Craig leather in my opinion.

Art

[WaG35]

Nicely done Peter. I don't think you could have picked any other color for the Kimber/Sig. It goes great with the wood grips. What color is it? The only thing I could see at all is the belt slots.(which I am currently struggling with also)they look oval rather than oblong if that makes any sense. It could be the angle though. I would wear any of them with a smile. Great job!!!- Tony

[Peterk]

Nicely done Peter. I don't think you could have picked any other color for the Kimber/Sig. It goes great with the wood grips. What color is it? The only thing I could see at all is the belt slots.(which I am currently struggling with also)they look oval rather than oblong if that makes any sense. It could be the angle though. I would wear any of them with a smile. Great job!!!- Tony

You are correct about the slots. I don't have the funds to purchase the Osborne oblong punch I wanted so I had to use the round punch/hobby knife method of cutting the slots and the double thickness of 8oz leather is not easy to cut through whilst keeping a straight line. They turned out useable but not to my standards at all so an oblong punch is definitely planned in my future purchases.

The only dye I have right now is the Eco-Flo Bison Brown I got from Tandy. I apply it using airbrush and have not experienced the rub off problem I've read on this forum with regards to water-based dyes. On the P225 holster, I started rubbing the high points while the dye was not completely dry, to create a bit of "antigued" finish. The 1911 holster I just applied dye, let dry completely, burnish edges, apply neatsfoot oil and let dry, then airbrush Satin Sheen. I wanted to try out some car wax from Meguiar's and see what it would do to it so I did, and it made the leather feel really good and knocks down the sheen for a flatter finish; may try that again.

I'm out of leather so I need to order more... Let's see who is having a sale...

[dbusarow]

Great work PeterK. Beautiful color.

Dan

[dickf]

I use a drill to get the diameter of the slot and to make the top and bottom holes, then join them using a wood chisel. The chisel is so sharp, it makes easy work of leather, and the lines stay perfectly straight. Great holsters - I like the 1st one the best!

[Peterk]

I use a drill to get the diameter of the slot and to make the top and bottom holes, then join them using a wood chisel. The chisel is so sharp, it makes easy work of leather, and the lines stay perfectly straight. Great holsters - I like the 1st one the best!

A chisel! Great idea, I will give that a try.

Thank you.

[TexasJack]

Those really look good!

[Peterk]

Those really look good!

Thanks much!

[mliebs8]

I love the first color, your work looks excellent. I agree with ArtS, it's time to move on to Hermann Oak or W&C.

[Peterk]

I love the first color, your work looks excellent. I agree with ArtS, it's time to move on to Hermann Oak or W&C.

Thanks! I just made a purchase today but just making a jump to Zack White premium grade with pasted backs for now as I've heard great things about them, and I need funds for new dyes and such to play with.

[MikePatterson]

Peter your work is outstanding!!!!

If I may be so bold but I have to ask how to you get the mold you are getting on the Sig and the Kimber. Who cares about dying, edging or sewing !!! the form and fit is where the work and time is and you have it in a class of your on. How do you do it.

Keep up the good work it is super.

Thanks for any advise you can pass on !!!

Mike

Edited December 3, 2008 by MikePatterson

[Peterk]

Peter your work is outstanding!!!!

If I may be so bold but I have to ask how to you get the mold you are getting on the Sig and the Kimber. Who cares about dying, edging or sewing !!! the form and fit is where the work and time is and you have it in a class of your on. How do you do it.

Keep up the good work it is super.

Thanks for any advise you can pass on !!!

Mike

Hi Mike,

Thanks so much for the positive comments! I take my time with any craft/hobby I take on, which is also why I don't think I could ever mass-produce these holsters to make money because it would take me too long to make one.

After stitching is done, I dunk the entire holster into a bath of warm water mixed with a couple of drops of dishwashing detergent. After soaking it for about 10 seconds, I take it out and let dry to the point where the leather is cool and turning pale (dried look), then I stick the gun into the holster and match the outside lines of the gun to the stitch lines so they're parallel; this is where extra attention afford to laying out the stitch line before hand pays off. At this point I pull out my freehand stitch groover (pic below) and use the blunt rubber covered end to start the molding around the trigger guard and bottom of the gun. I don't mold much the top of the gun because I need that space for the sight channel. The stitch groover was an accident but the rubber handle turned out to be a great tool because it won't harm the leather, but it is just hard enough to trace the lines of the gun. The little rubber "tip" at the end of the stitch groover is great for making indentations in the trigger guard to get that "lock" when the gun is inserted, where the barrel hood cutout is, and also great for general tracing around the pistol. I don't use my boning tool anymore except to smooth out larger areas where I find unwanted indents. The side facing my skin is not molded. After molding to my liking, hopefully the leather is dry enough, otherwise I leave the gun in there until the leather is mostly surface-dried and then I take the gun out and let holster dry overnight. Hope this helped!

[MikePatterson]

Thanks for your fast reply.

I have owned a saddle shop/ gun shop now for over 30 years and all this time have done saddle and general leather repaire. I have a nice leather shop with all the tools and sewing machines you could want. In the last few months I got tired of my holster makers taking months to get a order togeather so I said I can do that I have all the tools how hard can it be.(HA) I'm having no trouble with orders and the customers really like my holsters they keep coming back for more I just can't get that pressed mold look that I keep trying for. I bought a couple of vaccum machines and they help but still not perfect I still do a lot of hand rubbing. What does the dish det. do I have heard of this but not tried it yet?? Any way one day I will post some of my stuff and maybe even get a question or too. I am new to this site and it is great!!!!

Thanks again Mike.

[Tac]

Mike you will find a wealth of information and expertise on this site. There are many "Masters" of this art on this site and they all support and offer great help and advise when ever asked. Welcome.

-Tac

[planefixr]

First off, Great work. I am getting ready to try and make my first holster. I ironically have a makarov. How much leather did it take to make the holster for you makarov, and how did you go about making the pattern?

thanks

[Peterk]

Thanks for your fast reply.

I have owned a saddle shop/ gun shop now for over 30 years and all this time have done saddle and general leather repaire. I have a nice leather shop with all the tools and sewing machines you could want. In the last few months I got tired of my holster makers taking months to get a order togeather so I said I can do that I have all the tools how hard can it be.(HA) I'm having no trouble with orders and the customers really like my holsters they keep coming back for more I just can't get that pressed mold look that I keep trying for. I bought a couple of vaccum machines and they help but still not perfect I still do a lot of hand rubbing. What does the dish det. do I have heard of this but not tried it yet?? Any way one day I will post some of my stuff and maybe even get a question or too. I am new to this site and it is great!!!!

Thanks again Mike.

I would love to get my hands on that sewing machine! Hand sewing is a rather painful operation. :-)

The Dish detergent is used to break surface tension of the water so it can be absorped by the leather easier and more evenly. Don't know if it is true, but scientifically speaking it makes sense, and it has worked so far so why not.

I use my fingers mostly for the initial molding of the outlines when the leather is still damp. As the leather dries you will be able to put more and more details into it and have it retain. I have thought about getting the press and molding foam to get the initial shape as others have done, but really see no need after I made my first few.

Post your results when you can! I already have several orders after posting pictures on other forums and I only wanted to do this as a hobby... There is never any lack of people wanting quality, custom leather works.

Good luck!

[Peterk]

First off, Great work. I am getting ready to try and make my first holster. I ironically have a makarov. How much leather did it take to make the holster for you makarov, and how did you go about making the pattern?

thanks

Makarovs are great guns to start with I believe, because they are small enough to not require too much leather, and they lend themselves to numerous design options. For my first Makarov holster I used probably a 12"x7" piece of leather to make a fold over style. For the second one with loops, I used about a square foot of leather because of the extra length needed for the loop straps.

These two sites is where I get my pattern design procedures from. I use a combination of both depending on what I am making.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5696

http://www.jdlawhon.com/beltslide.html

Good luck!

[Bree]

I think you did a great job on the holsters! My guns would love to reside in one of those holsters!!

The idea about using the wood chisels is really good. I have loads of them in many sizes and I never thought about using them to create oblong slots. What a terrific and simple idea! At $40+ an oblong punch, you may have saved me a lot of $$$ for punches that I don't really need.

[Peterk]

I think you did a great job on the holsters! My guns would love to reside in one of those holsters!!

The idea about using the wood chisels is really good. I have loads of them in many sizes and I never thought about using them to create oblong slots. What a terrific and simple idea! At $40+ an oblong punch, you may have saved me a lot of $$$ for punches that I don't really need.

Thanks Bree, yeah that chisel idea is great, and with my homedepot gift cards I don't even have to spend money.

I think I will still get an oblong punch though simply to get a clean, one-stop process to cut the slots. I will reserve the drill/round punch plus chisel option for extra thick belts that the oblong-cut slots won't accommodate.