Thoughts on the classic oiled-tan finish

[Lobo]

Howdy. Busy week here at Lobo Gun Leather, making serious equipment for serious business.

After several years of heavy demand for black, black, and more black, I have recently noticed that more customers are ordering my traditional oiled-tan finish. Personally, I much prefer this on a finished piece, and it is dead-easy to do, so I don't mind. I don't do any other finishes (well, OK, there was that one cute female detective a few years ago who desperately wanted belts, holsters, and mag pouches to coordinate with whatever shoes or purses she was wearing, but customers like that don't come along every day).

When I have finished wet-molding the holster and have burnished all the edges, I allow the piece to dry overnight (I live in Colorado, borderline desert conditions, so you might have to adjust the drying time). When thoroughly dry, I simply apply a moderately heavy application of neatsfoot oil compound. I use a paint brush, but a swab or other applicator should work as well, leaving a thorough saturation on the surface of the flesh side only. Then I allow the leather to absorb the oil for several hours.

Neatsfoot oil is the traditional finish for leather goods. It is readily absorbed into the fibers and voids, providing very good long-term protection against moisture and the elements. It also provides a natural coloring and finish that cannot be matched by any stains or dyes.

NOTE: TOO MUCH NEATSFOOT OIL WILL LEAVE ANY LEATHER ITEM LIMP AND USELESS. Don't overdo the oil! Two light coatings are far better than applying too much when attempting to achieve a shade or coloration.

When the neatsfoot oil has been fully absorbed, I then treat the surfaces (inside and out) with Fiebing's Bag Kote to seal the surface and provide a nice eggshell luster to the finished item.

Attached photos show several that I finished this morning. Notice that the edges require no additional treatment (no waxes, etc., only the routine burnishing of the finished edge, for which I use a wooden thread spool chucked into a drill press to quickly slick up the edges of each piece, takes about 2 minutes per holster).

I know that many of you folks are truly artists, although masquerading as leather crafters, so you may not agree with me that this is the ultimate finish for gun leather. So be it! We all have our druthers, but I'm just an old retired copper who paid a lot of bills doing leather work over the past 36 years, and now that I am retired I find my business just growing and growing. Happy I am to give the customers what they want, since that is what pays for my adult beverages, poker games, and other bad habits.

The photos were taken less than 2 hours after oiling, so the oil is still "migrating" from the edges and a few darker areas may be seen. This disappears after a day or two and the resulting finish is very uniform.

As usual my opinions are free, and worth every penny of it.

Edited December 1, 2008 by Lobo

[WaG35]

That is by far my favorte look for a holster as well. Very nice. Quick question though, with 2 light coats of the oil do you lose any rigidity in the holster? I have been afraid to try it for that reason. I have a holster/christmas present to make for my brothers new Taurus Judge & I think that would be perfect.

[Lobo]

That is by far my favorte look for a holster as well. Very nice. Quick question though, with 2 light coats of the oil do you lose any rigidity in the holster? I have been afraid to try it for that reason. I have a holster/christmas present to make for my brothers new Taurus Judge & I think that would be perfect.

Keeping your applications light, I think you can do 2 or more before you start to effect the structure created by the wet-forming process. I think that we develope a feel for this stuff with experience, and I have developed my processes over the years. I just load a 1-inch paint brush with neatsfoot oil and slather it all over the outside surfaces, then set the piece aside to absorb the oil from that one application and this is the result I get with good consistency.

You may find some differences when making several items from different hides, with each piece taking different amounts of oiling to become more uniform in color to the others. In that type of situation, I think I would try multiple lighter coats so that the belt, the holster, the mag. pouch, etc. being made for one customer come out as close as possible in coloration.

Too much oiling will definitely cause any formed piece of leather to become limp and useless. All of my holsters and belts are cut from 8-9 oz. shoulders, so there is a lot of strength there, and a lot of leather to absorb oil. Lighter weights will certainly behave differently.

Hope this helps with your projects.

[UKRay]

Keeping your applications light, I think you can do 2 or more before you start to effect the structure created by the wet-forming process. I think that we develope a feel for this stuff with experience, and I have developed my processes over the years. I just load a 1-inch paint brush with neatsfoot oil and slather it all over the outside surfaces, then set the piece aside to absorb the oil from that one application and this is the result I get with good consistency.

Just wondered what temperature your oil is when you apply it? Far too many years ago I was taught to heat it up a tad (warm not hot) before slathering it onto working harness as it soaks in faster that way - anyone got any thoughts about the best temperature to apply neatsfoot?

[Peterk]

Hi Lobo,

I have used the Neatsfoot oil (not compound) and Bag Kote combo before, but also end up with a lightly tacky leather surface (sticky is more like it) after enough time has elapsed for drying purposes... Have you encounter this before? Thank you.

[rickybobby]

Lobo,

This is a leather workers dream! Not to have to worry about the damn black getting on someones clothes!! I also prefer this for my own rig and like it when I can do it for a customer. I also use a light coat of Bag Kote at the end to seal it. It is a classic look for a gun belt and holster!!

Rick Jorgenson

[Lobo]

Just wondered what temperature your oil is when you apply it? Far too many years ago I was taught to heat it up a tad (warm not hot) before slathering it onto working harness as it soaks in faster that way - anyone got any thoughts about the best temperature to apply neatsfoot?

Room temperature on everything. Avoid cold temps for the Bag Kote (and other final finishes) as they can blotch and streak badly when cold.

Hi Lobo,I have used the Neatsfoot oil (not compound) and Bag Kote combo before, but also end up with a lightly tacky leather surface (sticky is more like it) after enough time has elapsed for drying purposes... Have you encounter this before? Thank you.

Couldn't agree more. My favorite by a long shot.

Hi Lobo,I have used the Neatsfoot oil (not compound) and Bag Kote combo before, but also end up with a lightly tacky leather surface (sticky is more like it) after enough time has elapsed for drying purposes... Have you encounter this before? Thank you.

No, I have not. Perhaps not enough time permitted between finish applications?