Lined Belt Beginner Question

[JLSleather]

Well, this aint the full version, but maybe enough to make sense. First, you need to grasp a few simple statements. I say simple because they are generally obvious to most, but for some reason people get a piece of leather and forget simple things

• Everybody has a size. You can get that size with a measuring tape.
• A belt needs to be BIGGER than the waist. If it was the same size, it wouldn't go around. PLUS, it needs to be bigger than the size of the waist PLUS the thickness of your jeans / slacks.
• Those people who say the thickness doesn't matter are either confused or lying. What they're telling you isn't true -- only question is whether or not it's intentional.

Say you're using 8 oz leather, which we'll use just because it's easy. If your waist measures 38" (which I'm using because it's the most requested) then the outside of that piece of leather will be 38 PLUS 1/8" all the way around. Math guys will tell you this is a little more than 38 3/4". Now, if you add another layer of 1/8", you have 39 5/8" (on the grain side). Which, clearly, is not 38.

But you can prove this to yourself easily. Take two strips of 8 oz leather long enough to go around you. 1" wide is enough for this. Wrap one around your waist, and cut it so that the ends meet at your waist (no overlap). Now, cut the other teh same size. Wrap the second one around the first one. There ya go

[JLSleather]

NOW then, note that in the above example, if we used 1/4" leather instead of 8 oz, then

• the waist would be a 38 (outside)
• the first layer would be 39 5/8" (outside)
• the second layer would be 41 1/8" (outside)

so clearly it MATTERS.

.

But, does it also matter on the INSIDE? Perhaps it helps to think PVC pipe.. If a pipe is 38" around the outside:

• with a wall thickness of 1/8", then the inside would have a diameter 1/4" less, and the distance around the inside would be 37.2",
• but if you have a wall thickness of 1/4" (or if you "sleeve" it with another 1/8" "layer"), then the inside diameter is 1/4" less again and the distance around the inside is about 36.4".

Clearly, a double thick ( 1/4" ) belt 38" long is not going to fit a 38" waist UNLESS it's 38" ON THE INSIDE.

Again, you can test this. Take those pieces of leather you cut in part 1. Curl up one piece on the table, so that it butts up flush, like it was on your waist. Hold it together with a small piece of scotch tape on the inside, just enough to hold it for a bit. Now, take the other strip, and curve it the same way, and put it INSIDE the first one WITHOUT overlapping it (good luck).

[JLSleather]

A few leather people seem to grasp this easy enough. But then they'll stop there. I've seen 'directions' for belts that say "add 2 inches" all teh way to "pants plus 4 inches". Maybe my customers a little smarter Nobody wants 6 inches of belt tag FLAPPIN' around on the end, so try to keep it reasonable.

In theory (assuming that the math is correct, that teh waist size is right (including thickness of jeans), and that you're using double 7/8 oz, then the shift in size from the inside to the outside would be about 1 9/16".

Some genius will be here in a minute to say ... just make it 2" longer and it'll be fine - AND IT LIKELY WOULD. As long as you measure and mark the OUTSIDE (grain side) of the OUTER layer AND measure teh "tag" end (or billet) AFTER marking the position of the holes. ONE belt, maybe doesn't matter for that. But what happens when you get an order for 6 belts that all need to match ...

Oh.. just a little simpler? Onions have layers. Peel one off. Is the rest the same size, or a little SMALLER?

[natenaaron]

Totally get it now. Thanks for the explanation.