Members DS STRAPS Posted August 25, 2015 Members Report Posted August 25, 2015 So I may have gotten a little ahead of myself on this project using stain for the first time. I used a tandy water base stain and thought I would get fancy and do a sponge technique that came out awesome....MPO.... Only issue I have is that any moisture that comes in contact with it seems to make it smear. Tested a couple of small spots. Is there anything I can use as a top coat to salvage this project and not loose the texture that I was able to get? Quote
Members kiwican Posted August 25, 2015 Members Report Posted August 25, 2015 Cant help you but i love the look Quote
mlapaglia Posted August 25, 2015 Report Posted August 25, 2015 I would airbrush Resolene over your stain. a few light coats should solve the problem. Michael. Quote
Members DS STRAPS Posted August 25, 2015 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2015 Cant help you but i love the look Thanks! I love the way it came out I would airbrush Resolene over your stain. a few light coats should solve the problem. Michael. Thank you, I'm just worried cause as soon as water hits it, it begins to smear. I am worried that with an air brush I would just get a starburst effect...lol... may look nice. Crazy cause it is dry to the touch and on a sample piece I was able to rub on a wax based leather protector with no issues Quote
mlapaglia Posted August 25, 2015 Report Posted August 25, 2015 What kind of finish look are you going for? Matte. Gloss? Quote
Members DS STRAPS Posted August 25, 2015 Author Members Report Posted August 25, 2015 What kind of finish look are you going for? Matte. Gloss? Finish look doesn't matter, I will go with any thing that keeps this thing into turning into a giant puddle of stain lol Quote
Members Troy Burch Posted August 26, 2015 Members Report Posted August 26, 2015 What kind of stain did you use? Are you sure it wasn't an antique or a highliter. Quote
Members DS STRAPS Posted August 26, 2015 Author Members Report Posted August 26, 2015 What kind of stain did you use? Are you sure it wasn't an antique or a highliter. Eco flo briar brown stain, it was in a kit I had purchase, no real instructions on the little bottle. I just purchased some otter wax boot sealer, so maybe I will get lucky if I rub enough on..lol...its a personal project so if it gets damaged no loss, just will end up in the RnD pile Quote
Members kkikoss Posted August 26, 2015 Members Report Posted August 26, 2015 Hello ds straps, very nice work!!!! one question , What is the difference between brown oil dye and brown stain? Quote
Members Troy Burch Posted August 26, 2015 Members Report Posted August 26, 2015 A dye soaks into the leather to color it. Stains are for antiqueing and highlights, the stain lays on top the leather and even after it has dried can be wiped off with a wet colth. When I use it I spray on the finish to seal it off so as not to smear the finished look. Quote
Members texback Posted August 26, 2015 Members Report Posted August 26, 2015 Airbrush resolene cut 50/50 with water on it. Put 2-3 LIGHT coats on it and allow to dry between coats. Unless you spray it too heavy you shouldn't get any "starburst" effects. Quote
Members kkikoss Posted August 26, 2015 Members Report Posted August 26, 2015 A dye soaks into the leather to color it. Stains are for antiqueing and highlights, the stain lays on top the leather and even after it has dried can be wiped off with a wet colth. When I use it I spray on the finish to seal it off so as not to smear the finished look. Troy Thank you man!!! I have this product . Is the same with the stain ? I use first fiebing antique and then finish with fiebing tan kote. Is this the ideal way to do it without leaving any black stains on the wrist skin? It is for watch straps. (maybe it is better for me to use stain? ) Thanks for your time. Quote
Members DS STRAPS Posted August 27, 2015 Author Members Report Posted August 27, 2015 A dye soaks into the leather to color it. Stains are for antiqueing and highlights, the stain lays on top the leather and even after it has dried can be wiped off with a wet colth. When I use it I spray on the finish to seal it off so as not to smear the finished look. Airbrush resolene cut 50/50 with water on it. Put 2-3 LIGHT coats on it and allow to dry between coats. Unless you spray it too heavy you shouldn't get any "starburst" effects. I'll have to give it a shot this weekend! Quote
Members Colt W Knight Posted August 27, 2015 Members Report Posted August 27, 2015 +1 on the airbrush, only way Ive found to apply waterbased products without smearing. I use Mop N Glo instead of resolene. I spray it on full strength for high gloss, and cut it with water for a more satin sheen Quote
Members Troy Burch Posted August 27, 2015 Members Report Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) KKiKoss, what you have there is basicaly the same thing, one is a gel the other liquid. I've never used them for any kind of wrist band so I don't really know if they are good for that but I'm guessing there not. I don't think they'll hold up to sweating. I use the gel on belts and they work great, also on my floral carvings on book covers and such. Someone with more experence with stuff that wears against the skin will have to help you on that. Edited August 27, 2015 by Troy Burch Quote
Members kkikoss Posted August 27, 2015 Members Report Posted August 27, 2015 I'll have to give it a shot this weekend! DS straps with resolene or fiebing tan kote will be ok! Have you ever used fiebing antique or stain products on your watch straps? KKiKoss, what you have there is basicaly the same thing, one is a gel the other liquid. I've never used them for any kind of wrist band so I don't really know if they are good for that but I'm guessing there not. I don't think they'll hold up to sweating. I use the gel on belts and they work great, also on my floral carvings on book covers and such. Someone with more experence with stuff that wears against the skin will have to help you on that. Thank you my friend!!! when you use it on your belts after you finish with fiebing tan kote/ resolene? ?? is it necessary? Thanks Quote
Members DS STRAPS Posted August 27, 2015 Author Members Report Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) A dye soaks into the leather to color it. Stains are for antiqueing and highlights, the stain lays on top the leather and even after it has dried can be wiped off with a wet colth. When I use it I spray on the finish to seal it off so as not to smear the finished look. Airbrush resolene cut 50/50 with water on it. Put 2-3 LIGHT coats on it and allow to dry between coats. Unless you spray it too heavy you shouldn't get any "starburst" effects. So I know these products say to make sure the leather is clean before applying. Is this a deep cleaning (damp cloth) or just a simple wipe with with a dry rag Edited August 27, 2015 by DS STRAPS Quote
Members Colt W Knight Posted August 27, 2015 Members Report Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) I always clean my leather with a good dose of saddle soap during the casing process. If you are not tooling your leather, you wont be going through the casing process, but I would still recommend wiping your leather down with a damp rag and saddle soap. You will be amazed at the crud that comes off new leather. Plus, it will remove any oils that can muck up your dye job. Plus the saddle soap serves as a leather conditioner. Edited August 27, 2015 by Colt W Knight Quote
Members DS STRAPS Posted August 27, 2015 Author Members Report Posted August 27, 2015 Just want to say thank you all for the replies you all have been very helpful, I now have many tips to use during my future projects. I am going to use the otter wax I purchased and just go with it and chalk this one up as the price to learning new things...lol...maybe this will be the bag that changes colors every year...lmao I will post pics of my completed dopp kit once all of the components have come in and it has been assembled Quote
Members DS STRAPS Posted September 1, 2015 Author Members Report Posted September 1, 2015 Airbrush resolene cut 50/50 with water on it. Put 2-3 LIGHT coats on it and allow to dry between coats. Unless you spray it too heavy you shouldn't get any "starburst" effects. Just wanted to say thanks for the air brush trick, I was able to spray down a couple of light coats of Tandy Super Sheen without any issue. I plan on buffing it out today to see the true finish. Again thank you!!!!! Quote
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