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malabar

Cowboy Fast Draw

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One of the guys from my local gun club has commissioned me to make him a cowboy fast-draw style holster. Of course, I've NEVER made one of these before.

Any advice from the experienced? How much negative cant should I build into it? What material should I use for the shield?

Love to see some photos of those y'all have made.

tk

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http://www.cowboyfastdraw.com/

http://www.cowboyfastdraw.com/images/stories/pdf/Forms/Gunslinger_8thGuidelines_FINAL.pdf

There are quite a few requirements in building a legal CFDA holster. Better do some readin'.

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CHris Andres, Slick Bald has a pattern pack that has a pattern and instructions for CFDA compliant rig. He gives instructions for the deflector. He was selling his patterns under makers supply. It seems someone else is now selling his patterns from makers supply web site. http://makersleathersupply.com/product/SBC-MP-WST.html It is part of the Cowboy Master Pack.

Edited by camano ridge

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  On 8/26/2015 at 5:34 PM, Red Cent said:

http://www.cowboyfastdraw.com/

http://www.cowboyfastdraw.com/images/stories/pdf/Forms/Gunslinger_8thGuidelines_FINAL.pdf

There are quite a few requirements in building a legal CFDA holster. Better do some readin'.

Red,

many thanks. just what the doctor ordered. It's got all the requirements listed.

Ever made any of these? Love to see your designs and hear your advice.

tk

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  On 8/26/2015 at 9:32 PM, camano ridge said:

CHris Andres, Slick Bald has a pattern pack that has a pattern and instructions for CFDA compliant rig. He gives instructions for the deflector. He was selling his patterns under makers supply. It seems someone else is now selling his patterns from makers supply web site. http://makersleathersupply.com/product/SBC-MP-WST.html It is part of the Cowboy Master Pack.

Done.

I'm sure that will give me a good start

thanks

tk

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In CFDA, retention should be zero. One should be able to cock the handgun in the holster with no resistance. While the handgun should not rattle around, perfect fit is not important.

As a speed freak in SASS, leather is important to me. My avatar represents the latest vld leather.

In CFDA, you start with hand on gun. Thumb on hammer, contact with the grip, but you cannot have your trigger finger inside the trigger guard. At the light, one should cock the handgun as your thumb comes back to get a good grip on the gun,draw and fire in one smooth, and hopefully, fast motion.

No special holster is needed other than you won't see very many slim-jims on the circuit. The "modern" western holster will work. All they need is to stretch the pocket to minimize retention to zero.

The fuzzy tan rig was what a customer wanted. No way, as far as I know, to burnish the edges. Style look good, I think.

The rig with the gunfighter stitch is my personal rig.

post-36503-0-16928100-1440882640_thumb.j

post-36503-0-09638700-1440882936_thumb.j

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  On 8/29/2015 at 9:16 PM, Red Cent said:

In CFDA, retention should be zero. One should be able to cock the handgun in the holster with no resistance. While the handgun should not rattle around, perfect fit is not important.

As a speed freak in SASS, leather is important to me. My avatar represents the latest vld leather.

In CFDA, you start with hand on gun. Thumb on hammer, contact with the grip, but you cannot have your trigger finger inside the trigger guard. At the light, one should cock the handgun as your thumb comes back to get a good grip on the gun,draw and fire in one smooth, and hopefully, fast motion.

No special holster is needed other than you won't see very many slim-jims on the circuit. The "modern" western holster will work. All they need is to stretch the pocket to minimize retention to zero.

The fuzzy tan rig was what a customer wanted. No way, as far as I know, to burnish the edges. Style look good, I think.

The rig with the gunfighter stitch is my personal rig.

Red,

thanks for the guidance, it's much appreciated.

You do beautiful work!

tk

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Thank you.

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