Cement Globs Stitching Help

[kjcreamer]

Wasn't sure if I should post here or in Adhesives forum but since it's more a newbie question I went with Getting Started forum. I'm trying to use Tanners Contact Adhesive (was using their water based "elmers" type glue). It's a brand new can and wasn't gloopy or anything so I didn't use any thinner. I followed the directions to use light coat on each side, wait til tacky, put together. It dried over a few days under a book with a weight on top of that. I tried stitching it up and when I pushed the awl thru I got cement residue coming out in little rubber globs. Then the thread went through and picked up more. What did I do wrong? I'm finding Tandy stuff to be less and less satisfactory as I learn more. Should I ditch the Tandy cement and buy Masters or Barge that I see most more advanced workers use? Is it possible I used too much (I don't know how I could have made a lighter coat unless I used a different brush than the one attached to can lid) As a side note did I damage my awl blade?

Edited September 5, 2015 by kjcreamer

[JLSleather]

I've used that Tanner's and never had a problem with it. Generally, if you're getting "boogers", it's too thick. This can be from the glue itself settling (and getting thick) or from simply applying it too thick, or from not letting it cure enough.

Since you let it sit so long, we'll rule that one out (I find about 4 hours is plenty most of the time, before stitching).

So either your glue is settled or you put too much on there. Did you mix the glue before using it? I do this with the Barge, too. Shake the sucker like you were shaking a can of paint (in fact, I wouldn't mind having a paint shaker just for that!). But quart or smaller jugs, you could just use a stick. You'll be able to tell if it's settling -- there will be more than one color... just make sure it all mixes together (all one color again).

[kjcreamer]

Wow. Thanks for the speedy reply JLS. I didn't even have a chance to edit my post with the pics before you responded I'm thinking it's the settling. I didn't shake/mix at all and who knows how long it had been sitting on the Tandy store shelf before I bought it. Never thought of this and didn't think to observe color. First time using cement in any form for projects other than kindergarten rubber cement back when they thought it was okay for little kids to smell that stuff. Ha ha. Also probably still too thick a little. How to get thin application on such a small diameter line around without getting on edge to be burnished?

Edited September 5, 2015 by kjcreamer

[JLSleather]

What small diameter? Are you trying to glue JUST from the stitching out? Put a piece of paper down on teh leather, lined up with where you want the glue to stop. Think taping off your windows before you paint the walls (only don't use tape -- just a piece of paper is fine). Painters call it a "mask".

You can see what i mean ... download one of them files about makin holsters instructions.. same thing -- shows the "glue blockin'"

http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/holster-diy/

OH--- I think you'll find that contact cement that settles has some parts more brown-ish and some more yellow-ish. Mix till you have one color somewhere in between.

Now that we can see your pics.. yeah.. WAY too thick.

Edited September 5, 2015 by JLSleather

[kjcreamer]

Oh! I can't believe I didn't figure that one out on my own. Duh!I have to remember to not just think of leatherworking as its own entity and to apply what I know about other projects/mediums. I have no interest in holster/sheaths but clearly it would be valuable for me to look at those techniques as well. So much to learn and I'm loving it! Thank you.

With the "elmer's" style glue I was using it was easy to use the bone folder to separate the pocket (it's a notebook cover) from any glue past stitching but I didn't think I could do that with the cement style bond. So I was being really careful to not go past what would be the stitching line. Will the bone folder work for "inside seepage" on the cement adhesive? So how are far inside/past the stitching to glue?

Edited September 5, 2015 by kjcreamer

[penguineer]

If you want a really thin layer of glue, ditch the brush.

Use an old credit or shop gift card as a spreader.

Use the card to get rid of all the excess - you only need a tiny amount on the surface and the surface will be tacky almost immediately.

Leave to sit for about 30 seconds, put the glued pieces together, and press.

Should be ready to stitch after about 10 minutes.

Cheers!

Edited September 5, 2015 by penguineer

[JLSleather]

Not sure Im following you there. When I make notebooks, it matters if they have a gusset or not. basically, you don't want glue anywhere it will show (short version), so you would stop at teh stitch line. Some things, maybe a bit different depending on lotsa things.

Simple way to do that? Ya gotta stitch groover? Ora creaser you use to mark the stitch line? Use that same tool (LIGHTLY) on teh inside, hten just lay the paper on that mark.

[kjcreamer]

Great! Thanks for info!

[impulse]

I shy away from using contact adhesives on my leather work - it is too hard to successfully clean up any excess blobs or spills. Instead I use the fast drying PVA craft glue, clamping the edges together with bulldog clips for 5 to 10 mins. Excess is easily wiped clean with a damp rag. The edges can then be sewn, before buffing on my bench grinder to make the layers appear as one. Joins done this way are easily burnished with no visible evidence of adhesives being used.

Cheers, Lois

[Art]

Do not hesitate to thin contact cement. You can get it pretty thin without effecting it. I have never poured Master from a can that didn't require thinning. I have tried to pour Master from a gallon can, but to do it the gallon required thinning. The new (sort of) Master Maxbond is really Renia Colle de Cologne I think and also needs a little thinning. I don't trust the new Barge formula and threw the can out, then switched to Master/Renia and haven't had problems. Maxbond and Colle de Cologne are also safe to have around pregnant women so that is a plus when I teach classes.

To apply, put on a thin coat on both sides to be joined, let dry 10-15 minutes then look at them. If the glue is shiny, then you are good to go, put them together, and don't even think of repositioning them, won't happen. You can hammer the sides to set them. If the glue is not shiny or dull, then you need another coat of glue until they dry shiny. The main thought here is you apply glue 'till you have enough. Even if the glue is extremely thin, you can always apply more 'till you have enough.

Forget tubes of glue. Remember the Barge tubes? The stuff in those was never thin enough and after spending ghod knows how long on a shelf at Tandy, well you get the idea.

Art

[kjcreamer]

Just thought I'd reply to update that things are going much better based on the changes all of you suggested. No more globs Thanks!