Questions Regarding My Bi-Fold Wallet Construction.

[DR80]

Time for a wallet project, but i can't decide the leather thickness. This prototype is made of 1oz/0,7mm paperboard. I know a lot of people here have experience, so what do you think of 1oz thickness?

Any beginners mistake when making wallets?

[25b]

Make sure you skive the edges.

[DR80]

Make sure you skive the edges.

Do i really need that? The most it will be three layers.

[25b]

I do it on my items...makes the edges less clunky / bulky....do whatever you want though. You don't "need" to do anything. You asked for advice and I replied.

I do tell my potential buyers that I do that and explain why...and also how to tell if the competition isn't skiving their edges.

On second thought, nevermind...don't skive your edges.

Edited September 5, 2015 by 25b

[DR80]

I do it on my items...makes the edges less clunky / bulky....do whatever you want though. You don't "need" to do anything. You asked for advice and I replied.

I do tell my potential buyers that I do that and explain why...and also how to tell if the competition isn't skiving their edges.

Ok, i follow your advice

[Northmount]

Not much to skive on 1/64". You likely need 2-3 oz.

Tom

[25b]

DR80...I sent you a PM just now...

[DavidL]

Do not featherskive or it will tear in certain spots. You dont really need to skive either, its a preference since it is still thin.

Edited September 6, 2015 by DavidL

[DavidL]

All my opinion.

A mistake I made before that I see you might make just by the way the pattern is made. You may want to leave more space in-between the left and right slots (cant tell for sure but it looks like it would have less issues with folding if the gap was larger (keep in mind leather doesnt bend like paper http://www.ghurka.com/leather-wallet-pass-case-chestnut - take note of the gap. Search google and nearly all have larger gaps than your sample.

If the gap is stitched too close togther on the bottom it will pinch, leave 2 cm or more (play around with the measurements. You may already know this but the middle spot betwen the left and right slot is not stitched to anything. The inner rectangle piece should open up till it is flat and the outer opens up slightly when the inner piece is flat

The back piece I would use butt of the leather, the smaller rectangle piece I would use leather lower down towards the belly (has more flex and generally a bit thinner) or just thinner leather. The inner should be thinner in my opinion just so it is not so thick as a whole, plus it needs to bend more extremely seeing as it is in the inside not out. Using thick leather on the inside may not allow the wallet to stay closed.

It is difficult to tell but the back piece looks taller than the smaller inner rectangle. From experience that little space between the two pieces will make the back piece's top edge bow inwards from sitting in your pocket. A thick or lined piece may be okay. Consider adding to the pattern so the inner touches all the way to the top. The edges need to be slightly thick so that it can hold shape, do not leave any piece unsupported if that makes sense unless necessary. On top of that if the outer is taller do not make it taller but much, the taller it is the less supported it is by the inner. 2mm offset the outer wont deform where a 10mm offset may.

Last tip, consider designing the wallet length and width to accomodate a pricking iron in size 7 for example without having to make a stitch shorter or longer just to fit. for the edges of the card slot at a high SPI you do need to create a longer stitch preventing it from tearing the leather by being to close to the edge, this also can be added to the pattern (small hole for awl to mark).

Edited September 6, 2015 by DavidL