Tapered Side Gusset

[melanievillela]

Hello,

I have a question about making side gussets. I am trying to make a clutch like the one shown and I see that it has a tapered gusset. Is there a rule of thumb for the angle to be removed or do most people just eyeball it? I am trying to get my pattern drawn out so I can cut the leather. I don't know if this is important or not but I will be using lambskin leather.

[Bob Blea]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

No rule of thumb that I'm aware of. I would recommend printing off your pattern and test fitting it together to see how much you want to take it in. Adjust that gusset piece till it's how you like it, then that becomes your new pattern piece. Also keep in mind that the lambskin is very soft leather so it will easily compress and fold in on itself. Your gusset as you've drawn it will probably taper itself to fit the flap the contents of the clutch unless your front and back pieces have a stiffener to make them hold their shape.

Bob

[melanievillela]

_{Hello Bob,}

_{Thank you for the welcome and input.}

_{Yes I put bag stiffener on the front and back. I actually used one rectangular piece that will be curved on the bottom instead of using 2 pieces sewn on the bottom so I will see how that turns out.}

_{Hopefully I don't go through too much leather trying to get my pattern right with the side gussets.}

_{Thanks again!}

[johnv474]

If you figure out your dimensions with a material similar in thickness to the material you are using--paper grocery sacks or posterboard, perhaps, then you can save wasting the leather, which costs more. I often just use paper grocery bags, a stapler, and scissors. Along the top of the gusset I have used straight cuts between the top stitch on the front, and the matching one on the back. I have curved up from the top stitch on the front toward the back following the curve of the bottom, and I have cut out a round piece, using the same radius as the bottom. Each has different effects, subject to personal preference.