Adler 267 Timing Problem?

[276ccm]

Thanks Uwe! :-)

If I turn another 180 degrees it´s only like a soft "pop" (not even really a "pop" but I feel it´s something there) and its obvious its not the right place, so this position, as it shows in the last video must be the right place. It really "POPPS" into place.. but at this position, I can only put the 5 mm pin, 2,5 cm in that hole.

Does that means something else is wrong, or the screws that holds the clutch to the shaft must have been sliding? Or did I misunderstand something? :-)

I saw there was a little difference on where the balls is placed now.. so this position is the only place it really pops into the right place, so only one correct place for every 360 degrees turn.

Edited September 14, 2015 by 276ccm

[Uwe]

I see. I was just going by the drawing and deducing how it should work. I was wondering why they didn't just offset the two ball orbits slightly and it turns out they did!

So at this point I don't know why the check holes don't line up when you have the clutch engaged. Perhaps they actually do and we're not seeing it. From the drawing it looks like the check pin would never go all the way through the clutch. Perhaps the check pin would just go a little deeper if the clutch was engaged versus disengaged. Watch the check hole as you turn the clutch and see if anything else goes by as you turn especially just before it pops into place or right as you disengage it. Somebody who has an actual 267 in front of them will be in a better position to figure that detail out (that person may be you!)

It may not matter all that much. If the clutch is engaged, it's engaged. As you said you know it's engaged because you turn the clutch until it REALLY pops into place. We may be overanalyzing the check hole thing. The check hole may only be of use to check if the clutch is engaged without having to actually disengage the clutch first and then re-engage it. Disengaging and then re-engaging may be the better check. I would feel comfortable at this point to time the hook and sew. You're in a MUCH better state now than you were when the clutch was frozen.

After doing the timing on my machine it seems more likely that the large gear inside the gearbox under the hook slipped on the shaft a little rather than the set screw at the clutch end of the shaft.

You may have to adjust the two clutch spring screws if the clutch lets go too easily as you sew.

Edited September 14, 2015 by Uwe

[276ccm]

Thanks a lot, again! :-)

I took another video, which shows the 360 turn, but I can't really see anything going on in there to check. But I will open the gearbox and start the timing tomorrow morning and hopefully it'll be ok :-)

The 360 degree video: https://youtu.be/PoZCBCOFq0I

I also tried to put the pin inside while very carefully turning the clutch, but it would only drop where the ball is supposed to drop. And it's no chance it will go all the way trough as the little wall to support the timing belt will block it.

Muchas gracias! :-) I'll update tomorrow :-)

[Uwe]

There's no mistaking that pop! You're good to go.

[Trox]

Hi Marius, It makes the right sounds. I do not remember how it's suppose to look like right now. I am not in my workshop before later this week, I will check it then. How much is the hook off where your clutch is engaging. If the clutch did not work something else has moved. You put tension to the clutch Springs too?

Tor

[276ccm]

Yeah! The machine is sewing again!!! I followed the video step by step, and HURRAY! :-) Thanks a lot! :-)

https://youtu.be/FZ1zAcoPHnY

Yes Tor, something else might have moved, but not sure where, as you see from this picture, it was really way off. But after to hook timing it sews well, and I can't hear any strange noises :-)

I adjusted the clutch screws after the clutch was engaged.

When I'm back in Spain in end of Octobre, I'll try to take the clutch apart and clean it well and oil it up again.

Muchas gracias all of you! :-)

Regards Marius :-) A happy sewer at the moment! :-)

[Trox]

That's great Marius, Uwe made a very good video for you. The accident was a valuable lesson for you. You should give the hook and bobbin house a good clean out too, check the hook tip for burrs. You can always use a white ceramic stone to remove burrs on the hook tip. It's so fine it only polishing. Check that the bobbin house opener will alow your heaviest thread to pass true. And check the distance hook needle with that same biggest needle; as close as possible without hitting the hook.

We talk when you coming to Oslo.

Tor

[276ccm]

Most defiantly a valuable lesson! Yes I will try to clean up all the parts I can, and I´m not so afraid now to open my machine and loosen things, but only the things I´m 100% sure how to do hehe :-) The video was fantastic and truly helped me a lot, together with all the explanations :-)

Talk to you soon Tor, and have a great weekend all! :-)

[Wellington]

On 9/11/2015 at 3:55 PM, Uwe said:

... I just finished making a little video that shows how my safety clutch works and how to verify hook timing on my machine:

 

 

Uwe, I just want to say a huge THANK YOU! for posting this excellent video. I recently purchased an old Adler 67-GK373 that seemed to be out of time, and I probably wouldn't have bought it if I had not already seen your video on how to time it. Having bought the 67, I also bought the English service manual, but your video definitely made it much easier to understand what would need to be done to re-time the machine. 

Before I started the re-timing process, I took out the needle that was in the machine when I bought it, and put in a new 134-35 needle – and lo and behold, the needle that was in it when I bought it was 5-8mm too long, and that's what led me to believe it was out of time. When I tried the machine with the proper-length needle, it sewed just fine!

Anyway, many thanks to Uwe and to leatherworker.net for this invaluable resource. I'm learning a lot here and just wanted to thank you all for it.