Modifying Lasts

[yesterdog]

Hello,

I have purchased two nearly full runs of vintage lasts. One for men and another for women. I got a steal of a deal. What I would like to do is modify them to make soft soled shoes with a wide natural toe and no heel. They are made to accept what I think is 1/2" to 1" heel but I want to modify them to be flat and also modify the toe to a more natural shape,wider at the toe and ball. I thought I would just fill in the heel with cork and add width but fear that the shoe would become too high at the ankle. Maybe if I just grind off the front sole a bit to match the heel, understanding that I will not be using toe puffs and want a soft foot conforming shoe so the loss of height may not be an issue. I hesitate to ruin the lasts as full runs are soooo expensive. I would be willing to trade these lasts for flat lasts if anyone is interested . Also these are wood lasts and I wonder what I should use to alter them with that I can remove later? I have no experience in modifying lasts at all. Any thoughts?

[Art]

You need to put in a year of study and experimentation to get enough knowledge to modify lasts, especially for changing the style of shoe. There is a company that makes lasts for theatrical footwear who might have something you want, so try to get a catalog and see if you can modify what you have to do the job. Note, you can go down in heel size but not up without raising the toe, otherwise face meets floor might be in the wearer's future. There is not much spread in the last statement without problems with comfort standing and walking. To do any of this you really need measurements, then get the last that closely resembles them, ant THEN buildup or take off to make them perfect (well almost). The fit of the shoe to the foot is what bespoke shoemaking and bootmaking is all about, without that, you might as well send the customer to Payless or Shoebarn. Women have been accustomed to shoes that don't quite fit them for most of their adult lives, as long as they look good, they will endure the pain. Men are a little different in that once they find something they like, they will wear them out and even get them repaired. Women only repair them when they break. What I am getting at is that the bespoke shoe must be comfortable besides looking good. Lasts are made to the general size and fit of a particular style. Companies like Jones & Vining make many different lasts in a particular style and size. There are six or more measurements that define a foot, and an outline of the foot; and they all depend on one another to make the last useable. You can add to the last, or grind off some if the dimensions are a bit off, but extreme changes will require you to make test shoes to see how your mods worked (or in many cases didn't).

As far as mods, grind off or build up. Grinding is pretty straightforward. Building up consists of contact cement, leather, a hammer, and a knife. Build your own shoes till you figure it out.

Art

[DS STRAPS]

Sounds like you dress shoe lasts. I will look at my book marks and see if I still have the link for a last company I found

[DS STRAPS]

http://shoe-last-shop.com/?post_type=product

[yesterdog]

Thanks! It looks like I have some studying and practice to do. Sounds like fun to me!

[electrathon]

Modifying the toe box area is not that big of a deal and they can be built up rather simply. The area near the ball of the foot is kind of critical in shape and measurement. The heal height is not something that can be easily adjusted, lasts are designed with heel height and toe spring in them. It is getting pretty advanced to be modifying to this leval.

[yesterdog]

I am going to try though because, who knows, maybe I can do it. I do have some duplicate lasts and some singles to practice on. I do not intend to become a master bespoke shoemaker. That is out of my scope of abilities and I'm too old to start that learning curve. I am doing this as a hobby and to stretch my abilities. This is in no way to detract from the bespoke artists out there. I envy and honor their work. I do however feel there is a place for the less skilled to play with shoemaking. I make moccasin type shoes for my short fat feet and love doing it.