MADMAX22 Report post Posted December 3, 2008 OK so I read I think it is one of the books that I have or maybe here also that some people recommend that after casing your piece to take a piece of glass and pull toward you over the leather to smooth it out. I guess this is suppose to even out the grains on top or something. Anyways would this smooth out the top so that the portions that arent carved get a smoother look? How many of you guys use this technique and if so how did it compare to not doing it? I dont have any glass that is readily available to try but would get some if this tends to be a good method. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HarryB Report post Posted December 3, 2008 Glassing your leather makes all the difference in the world. Be sure to get 3/8" glass or 1/4" plexiglass and get a good radius from one side to the other. Both work well but must be perfectly smooth or it will transfer any defects to the surface of the leather. Don't use too much pressure or you will slip the grain (separate the grain from the flesh layer). Be aware, if you are using a less expensive leather, you will possibly slip some or all of the grain even with lighter pressure. Try it. You will never not glass your leather afterwards. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbird Report post Posted December 3, 2008 would some one give me a better idea of what is happening with the glass are you laying it on top or rubbing it across or what is the prosses Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dags3777 Report post Posted December 3, 2008 Glassing your leather makes all the difference in the world. Be sure to get 3/8" glass or 1/4" plexiglass and get a good radius from one side to the other. Both work well but must be perfectly smooth or it will transfer any defects to the surface of the leather. Don't use too much pressure or you will slip the grain (separate the grain from the flesh layer). Be aware, if you are using a less expensive leather, you will possibly slip some or all of the grain even with lighter pressure. Try it. You will never not glass your leather afterwards. Love to get a bit more detail, thanks Darryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted December 3, 2008 would some one give me a better idea of what is happening with the glass are you laying it on top or rubbing it across or what is the prosses If I can find a picture to post Ill do that. Not sure if there are allready some posted somewhere on the site. Basically from what I know you have a flat piece of glass pointed away from you and drag it toward you over the leather, kind of like dragging a big floor squiggy toward you. This is done after you have cased or wetted your leather and it is suppose to really smooth out the grain side or something. HarryB, thanks for the input. Now Im gonna have to try it, Im not sure about seperating the grain/flesh but Im sure Ill realize pretty quick what exactly you mean LOL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted December 3, 2008 Oh and just to add I could be really off on my description of what I think it is since Im going off only one pic that I saw a while back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crystal Report post Posted December 3, 2008 I'd be interested in more information on this. When should you use a glass slicker? I understand that it helps to seal the top grain - how does this affect tooling? Crystal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TroyWest Report post Posted December 3, 2008 I always use a glass slicker before I tool. I dont typically pull it toward me, but rather push it away from me. I do it all over the surface to work out some stretch and smooth the surface of what I will tool, whether its a saddle or anything else. I made several of these over the years out of plexiglass but finally bought one from Barry King and I really like it. Its heavy glass with wood on the holding side. You hold the wooden part and push the rounded glass edge against the surface of the leather. I use mine daily. Here's some brief cases I made and tooled with a lot of smooth leather showing. Glassing smooths the surface and just gives it a handsome effect for a professional appearance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildrose Report post Posted December 3, 2008 Wouldn't glassing affect how the leather accepts dyes/stains? I'd be afraid it'd seal the pores more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted December 3, 2008 I always use a glass slicker before I tool. I dont typically pull it toward me, but rather push it away from me. I do it all over the surface to work out some stretch and smooth the surface of what I will tool, whether its a saddle or anything else.I made several of these over the years out of plexiglass but finally bought one from Barry King and I really like it. Its heavy glass with wood on the holding side. You hold the wooden part and push the rounded glass edge against the surface of the leather. I use mine daily. Here's some brief cases I made and tooled with a lot of smooth leather showing. Glassing smooths the surface and just gives it a handsome effect for a professional appearance. I saw the tool at Barry's display in Columbus. It is a nice tool. I kind of wanted to buy one but I was afraid because I thought that any small particle on the leather might get either smooshed into the leather or worse dragged across it causing microscratches that might show when the finish is put on. Is that possible? I don't really know because I never used one of these glass smoothers. I ended up getting a nice new maul and swivel knife from him. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted December 3, 2008 I slick mine too. I really like the feel it gives to the untooled areas. It also gives me a consistant feel in tooling the whole piece. Holly, I find it makes dyeing and oiling more consistant than not slicking. It likewise makes the whole surface act the same. Not having one area more porous than another makes it easier for me. It also makes edging more consistant. I used a slicker I made from a piece of LDPE cutting board for a few years. It still has the punch tube marks all over it. Cut a slab with a jig saw and rounded over the edges with a router. That plastic cuts absolutely smooth with the router in one pass. If I ding it on a nail, like forming a swell cover, a quick pass with the router and I have a fresh edge. Doesn't look the greatest, but works. This fall during an upgrade orders, I got one of Barry's. Looks a lot better and works well. There are some plans for making them, but by the time a guy buys the materials and spends the time working it, usually money ahead to let a tool maker make the tools. Bree, Yes you can drag something and make a mark. Something to just watch for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted December 3, 2008 I always use a glass slicker before I tool. I dont typically pull it toward me, but rather push it away from me. I do it all over the surface to work out some stretch and smooth the surface of what I will tool, whether its a saddle or anything else.I made several of these over the years out of plexiglass but finally bought one from Barry King and I really like it. Its heavy glass with wood on the holding side. You hold the wooden part and push the rounded glass edge against the surface of the leather. I use mine daily. Here's some brief cases I made and tooled with a lot of smooth leather showing. Glassing smooths the surface and just gives it a handsome effect for a professional appearance. Wonderful looking case you have there and thanks for the explanation as how you do the glassing. Thanks everyone for the input. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted December 3, 2008 I always use a glass slicker before I tool. I dont typically pull it toward me, but rather push it away from me. I do it all over the surface to work out some stretch and smooth the surface of what I will tool, whether its a saddle or anything else.I made several of these over the years out of plexiglass but finally bought one from Barry King and I really like it. Its heavy glass with wood on the holding side. You hold the wooden part and push the rounded glass edge against the surface of the leather. I use mine daily. Here's some brief cases I made and tooled with a lot of smooth leather showing. Glassing smooths the surface and just gives it a handsome effect for a professional appearance. Wow Troy! Just beautiful! You are amazing! I slick with glass before I start tooling also....wouldn't consider NOT slicking, now! I also use Barry's glass slicker...one of the best buys I ever made. I cross slick in all directions. Not only does slicking smooth out some of the inconsistencies in the surface of the grain...the process slightly compresses the leather resulting in cleaner, crisper tooling. An I agree...it helps make dying and coloring more consistant. I say YES to slicking....my final answer! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted December 3, 2008 I slick as well... and yes with Barry's slicker. It does help with the inconsistencies in the leather, such as the fat roll areas and such. I do as hidepounder does and slick back and forth in all directions. Works for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JHayek Report post Posted December 4, 2008 I'm a big fan of slicking the leather, makes a much firmer crisper impresion with the tooling and greatly extends the life of the finished product. A tip though use plenty of water and glycerin soap. my 2 cents worth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sodapop Report post Posted December 4, 2008 this might be a dumb question...would a marble rolling pin be of any value for this...cuz i got one of those?? darryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted December 5, 2008 I slick mine too. I really like the feel it gives to the untooled areas. It also gives me a consistant feel in tooling the whole piece. Holly, I find it makes dyeing and oiling more consistant than not slicking. It likewise makes the whole surface act the same. Not having one area more porous than another makes it easier for me. It also makes edging more consistant. I used a slicker I made from a piece of LDPE cutting board for a few years. It still has the punch tube marks all over it. Cut a slab with a jig saw and rounded over the edges with a router. That plastic cuts absolutely smooth with the router in one pass. If I ding it on a nail, like forming a swell cover, a quick pass with the router and I have a fresh edge. Doesn't look the greatest, but works. This fall during an upgrade orders, I got one of Barry's. Looks a lot better and works well. There are some plans for making them, but by the time a guy buys the materials and spends the time working it, usually money ahead to let a tool maker make the tools. Bree, Yes you can drag something and make a mark. Something to just watch for. My question is how much pressure do you use? I don't want to get one and press too hard or not enough so it's not really helping anything. Thanks, Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
celticleather Report post Posted December 5, 2008 This is a process I've never come across! Does it give the leather a 'shiny' appearance - what we in the UK call a 'plated' finish? It does sound rather similar to the process I use after dyeing leather, when I tighten down the grain using an antler burnisher. A picture of the tool would be really helpful (a picture of it in use would be invaluable!). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted December 5, 2008 This is a process I've never come across! Does it give the leather a 'shiny' appearance - what we in the UK call a 'plated' finish? It does sound rather similar to the process I use after dyeing leather, when I tighten down the grain using an antler burnisher.A picture of the tool would be really helpful (a picture of it in use would be invaluable!). This process doesn't change the surface apperarance very much, other than to "flatten" out some of the inconsistencies of the leather. With this process, you wouldn't burnish to a point of sealing the leather off like you do on the edges. I'm not in my shop right now, but if no one else posts a picture before I can get around to it, I'll post one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted December 5, 2008 There is a picture of one in this message thread. Art http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1926 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnD Report post Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) Made these today after reading this post. I had salvaged some 7/16 plexi payphone windows to use for windows in a bob house. I cut one 4" x 6" and the other 3"x 4", I took a cue from Bruce and rounded the ends with my router. After smoothing the router marks with a file and sand paper, I lightly buffed the ends. I've only tested them on scrap so far, but they make the leather surface very smooth and consistent. Eventually I may put handles on them, or maybe just some hockey tape. Thanks for the great topic Max and everyone for the great info. John Edited December 6, 2008 by JohnD Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildrose Report post Posted December 7, 2008 Okay, someone mentioned using lots of water: do you mean before using the slicker or after? I have a slicker, actually, but I'd bought it to use on the back side of belts to smooth them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smudley Report post Posted December 7, 2008 I made one out of 1/4" acrylic. I have tried it, and it seems to work very well. I have made them in the past with mixed results, but hadn't seen them used then. I have since seen the process demonstrated and explained, and liked what I saw. The I made the one I have now. I'm making a couple of different sizes to try. Now to perfect the slicker, then maybe make some to sell, or at least give to friends. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnD Report post Posted December 7, 2008 Holly, I'm not sure if this is the proper method, but when I tested mine out, I just quickcased a scrap piece and used the slicker in different directions like Rawhide and Hidepounder said. I also tested it out on the flesh side and it worked great. Hopefully, if there is more to it, someone will correct me. John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deb59 Report post Posted December 7, 2008 I took a class at the IFOLG show a couple of years ago that Jesse Smith taught. He taught us to use a glass slicker before carving. It did make a difference. The stamping and carving was more crisp looking. I was looking at the glass slicker's in Barry King's booth, but ended up buying bevelers from him instead. I was in Hobby Lobby one day in the scrapbooking and stamping area and found a clear acrylic block that is 3 x 3 x 1/2 " thick. It made me think of the slicker. The top edges are rounded and it was fairly inexepnsive. I decided to try it and it works pretty well. (It is labled " the paper studio by stampabilities"). I think it comes in several different sizes. - Deb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites