ThatGuyFromReno Report post Posted October 6, 2015 I am looking for a way to clean, store, and preserve my tools (especially knives). My first thought is something like Rem Oil, and I am curious if anyone has any thoughts on this. I store my round knife in a leather sheath, but I am worried about rust spots developing over time. Immediately something like Rem Oil comes to mind, being that a person would use that to clean and store firearms. My only hang up with this is that the residue may harm the leather when using the tool, something like causing it to not accept dye or finish. Obviously I wouldn't soak the blade in the oil, but give it a good wipe down like a person would with their guns. If there are no unwanted effects on the leather, I can see this being a great way to care for all metal tools. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted October 6, 2015 Do not store your round knife in a leather sheath. The leather will attract moisture and cause rust. Its the same reason you do not store firearms in holsters. I would not use rem-oil. I live in Denver and never had a problem with rust. If you had to cover it with something Id wipe it down with neetsfoot oil. It would not harm the leather. Michael Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThatGuyFromReno Report post Posted October 7, 2015 Thank you for your input. The neatsfoot oil makes perfect sense. Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Wood paste wax. Woodworkers swear by it. I use it on all my tools. I use the wax on the whole tool, handle and all. The problem with neetsfoot is the discoloration it may cause on the leather being worked on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThatGuyFromReno Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Thank you TinkerTailor. I appreciate the input. I would like to keep my tools in the best condition possible, so they may serve me for as long as possible. I will look into that. Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Neatsfoot oil may darken the edge a little, Wax would prevent the edge from taking dye, No matter what you use to prevent rust, wipe your tools before using them. That's just standard practice if you use an anti-rust treatment on your stored tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThatGuyFromReno Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Makes sense to me, Thank you both for the input. Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted October 9, 2015 I agree and use the same as Tinker, paste wax. Rub it on, wipe it off. There will be so little residual there is no way you will have transfer issues. I do it to my non-stainless tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThatGuyFromReno Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Thanks electrathon, I have more than enough of that stuff lying around from woodworking projects, so I will give it a shot. Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 10, 2015 Neatsfoot oil may darken the edge a little, Wax would prevent the edge from taking dye, No matter what you use to prevent rust, wipe and strop your tools before using them. That's just standard practice if you use an anti-rust treatment on your stored tools. Stropping the edge gets off the wax at the cutting surface, and you should strop before use. Paste wax gets pretty hard and doesn't rub off as readily or in enough quantity to effect edge dying or anything in my experiences. If you do have an issue, you used too much wax. a dab will do ya. Plus it gets in the crevaces of the metal and stays there. It wont rub off on your hands like neetsfoot/other oils will. Also, its not the cutting edge i am worried about with the oil, its when you put the tool down on the work or table and leave an oil mark. With wax, if applied nice and thin it doesn't transfer with incidental contact. It is harder waxes like carnauba, not beeswax, with a little thinner to make them appliable. They then harden in 10-15 mins and then you buff off the excess. Good to go. Wax also does not stick to dust. Oiled tools collect dust . Dust holds moisture. Dusty oily tools can still rust. I have even used spray on floor wax in the past but it ends up looking like I clearcoated my tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) Wax would definitely be the way to go. If you search the 'net you'll find lots of info on making/blending waxes, depending on what you want to achieve. (And some of them smell good too). Lanolin is a good additive for rust prevention, and is not only natural but good for your skin. A beeswax and lanolin mixture would be a good starting point, and a bit of olive oil could be added too (many claim you should only use extra virgin oil). Mutton tallow is another very good additive, and isn't hard to make if you can't buy it. The beauty of the stuff that I've mentioned is that they're all natural and don't go rancid! Johnson's Paste Wax is one that is used for all sorts of things besides floors - used in various boolit lube concoctions, for one - and is highly regarded, in general, by reloaders. (Unfortunately, it's not obtainable here in Oz, although many have looked for it). Blending waxes is a fascinating subject in itself. Edited October 10, 2015 by dikman Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
