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Needle Size For 153 K

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I have a 153 k 103 Singer and I have seen 3 different needle systems recommended,3355, 1955, and 1901, or 135 x 17, 135 x5,and 135 x 16. I have been using 135 x 17/16's but have always had to much tension on the upper thread as it comes around the hook, as it makes a snapping sound as the thread releases from the hook. Could this be caused by too long of a needle? Does anyone know what is the right system for this machine ?

I guess there are only two different systems, because 135 x 17 and 135 x 16 are the same length, only different point, although they are listed by Singer as a different system(typo maybe). Thanks Gump.

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The correct needle class is 135x17 for cloth points, 135x16 for leather.

Two things to check for the other issues. The latch opener adjustment and your top and bottom shaft timing may be off just a touch. It will still sew, but if the top shaft is retarded, your take up lever would still be rising when it should actually be at the top of it's stroke. You check the shaft timing the same as a 211. There's a tab with an arrow stamped on it that should line up with the mark on the lower timing belt cog when your take up lever is at top dead center.

Regards, Eric

Edited by gottaknow

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Eric; Unfortunatly when the takeup is at tdc, the arrow is 1/2 tooth off on the cog. The takeup is still below tdc when the arrow hits the timing mark. I can reduce the tension by timing the machine early so the hook hits the needle high up the scarf, but it still snaps a little as the thread releases from the hook. Latch opener seems to be ok, it doesn't seem to catch the thread and shifts back and forth evenly. Another note on the needles, a 153 K lists 135 x 5, and a 153 W lists 135 x 17, but both machines use the same manuals. Thanks Gump.

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I would check the set screws on both belt cogs to make sure one of the screws is tight against the flat spot on the shafts. If the screws aren't tight, your shaft timing will vary. Having the timing off a half tooth can also indicate a worn timing belt. If you want to eliminate that tight thread issue, the shaft timing has to be right on.

Regards, Eric

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Well, I can't get more than 2-3 degrees rotation of the bottom shaft with the top shaft held in place, and there is no visible clearance between cog teeth and belt teeth. Cog screws are all tight and in the v groove in the shafts. This machine appears to have been built from two other machines. The top is standard hammertone grey, and the arm is a darker grey, but that shouldn't matter unless maybe one was "k" machine and the other was a "w". I'm an industrial mechanic, so I have exhausted my ideas before asking stupid questions, but you never know till you ask. Thanks again Gump.

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I would remove the belt, loosen the screws on the top cog and rotate it and tighten the other screw onto the flat spot. then try retiming the shafts. The cogs and their respective set screws are not inline with the teeth on the cog, so that's where it could be off. You can't do that with the bottom cog because of the timing mark. I've seen this condition on numerous machines in the Singer 211, 153, and 300W class chainstitches that use the same system for shaft timing. If it's not that big of a deal for you then disregard, but I wanted to throw it out there.

Regards, Eric

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Eric; I didn't think of that. This machine had a new top shaft put in it when I bought it, and as i said earlier, it is built from two machines so anything is possible. If the set screw spacing is slightly different, it could cause this problem. Again many Thanks.

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I removed the belt and found that the set screw has a non threaded pin end that goes into a hole in the hollow top shaft, and the set screws are lined up exactly on the teeth of the cog. The only thing left was to time the hook early so that it hits the needle high in the scarf. This cuts back the tension to the point that it only pulls slightly coming off the hook. Looks like this is as good as it will get. Gump

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