Weatherproofing A Dog Collar?

[CrossleyLeathercraft]

I was wondering what you guys would suggest for finishing/waterproofing a dog collar.

So far I've only made items that won't really see much heavy use outdoors and I've been happy using super sheen on them(purses and small cases and such), I'm looking to make a collar for a working lab, so it's going to get wet and see a fair bit of use.

I have super sheen, acrylic resolene, and feibings snow proof paste, could I use the snow proof paste as a finish in itself? or should I put it on top of one of the other finishes? I wouldn't want to use neatsfoot oil because I plan to colour it and it turns everything pretty dark.

And could any one suggest how to protect the back side of the collar? I was thinking of sewing two pieces of leather together back to back to get the right thickness, could I use the same finish then on the back?

Any help on this would be appreciated!

Denene

[Art]

Denene,

A working lab? It is definitely going to get wet. Some would say to seal it up with acrylic, but that stuff doesn't breathe, and in my experience isn't totally waterproof, so it may seal the moisture IN. My recommendation is Pecard's, Montana Pitchblend Paste, or Fiebing's Aussie. The Snow Proof might also work, sounds like Aussie with mink oil. I use Montana Pitchblend or Pecard's as a final finish, but after they absorb into the leather, some other breathing finish can be used on top. With doubled and stitched (doubled, glued and stitched also works) the same treatment top and bottom makes sense. Leather Balm with Atom Wax, Carnauba Cream, and Bag Kote are good breathable finishes.

Art

[CrossleyLeathercraft]

Thanks for your reply! Do those breathable finishes wear off after a while? Will they need reapplying at some point?

Also, will those finishes affect the colour in any way?

Denene

[Art]

Denene,

Anything will wear off after a while. The finishes I recommended are easy to re-apply and don't look anywhere as bad as acrylics when they start to wear, which look absolutely ratty. You are also going to get flex with collars (especially active animals on a leash) which will put some stress on acrylics.

Art

[CrossleyLeathercraft]

Art,

I haven't had any problems (yet) with flexing, but with a collar I guess it would be a bit more extreme. I've looked up those breathable finishes you mentioned and they say that they're more for conditioning rather than finishing leather, should I put one of those on first and then the snow proof paste? Surely there can't be much point to putting a conditioner on top of a waterproof finish?

Denene

[Art]

Denene,

They are breathable finishes, not just conditioners, although Pecard's and Montana Pitchblend are used to re-condition leather. Bag Kote is definitely a finish, not a conditioner. I often use Leather Balm with Atom Wax after Pecard's or Montana Pitchblend because it buffs-up pretty good with a decent shine. I very seldom use acrylic finishes as they are just too plastic looking for me. If I want it to look like plastic, I'll use plastic. If I want to see my face in it, I will use any of the waxes and then buff them. In any event, always a breathable product on the backside. For some knife sheaths, an acrylic like Neat-Lac or Wyo-Sheen can be used on the inside to eliminate some of the leather's ability to absorb water and lay against the knife steel.

When you get down to it, each case is individual; you do what you have to and use what you have to to accomplish what you want.

Art

[electrathon]

For a working dog I personally would use nylon. Nothing will make the leather waterproof, only resistant. If it was for a show, totally different, use leather and accept that it will require maintenance.

[CrossleyLeathercraft]

So leather balm/carnauba cream on top of snow proof paste, should I also put a conditioner underneath the snow proof paste?

It's for a Christmas present so I've got some time to experiment, I'll post a pic if it turns out OK.

Electrathon, that is a good point to consider, I'm sure this person will know how to maintain leather (Hunters are certainly no stranger to it!) are there any products you would recommend to keep it in good condition after a soaking? would the leather balm or carnauba cream do the job?

Denene

[Art]

Denene,

Fiebing's Snow Proof Mink Oil Paste is a conditioner in addition to be water resistive. Put a coat on, and let it dry for a day so the leather can take-up the product. A second coat may be needed if the leather was really dry, but if you put it on and it lays on top for hours you might have too much. Wipe it off, let it dry 24 hours. Anything on top of that like Carnauba or Atom Wax or Bag Kote (NOT Tan Kote) is just there for the shine. If the customer gets it wet, let the leather dry out and inspect it. If it shows signs of drying out (it shouldn't if you did your job right) one coat of Snow Proof should do it, but warn that overuse of the product can hurt more than help.

I am a big user of Pecard's, and used to give a trial sample with every leather piece that I had used it on. I had customers come back for more and realized they were conditioning after every use. No matter what you tell them, they think more is better. They go and look at their ride and grab the Pecard's. If you see some M/C guys with big spots on their ass, they are overusing conditioner on their saddles.

Art

[CrossleyLeathercraft]

Thank you very much for your advice! Extremely helpful

Denene