Antiquing Over Stamps

[retiredff]

I'm having a problem with antiquing on letter stamps and FireFighter maltese cross stamp. The cross is a standard 1 1/4" stamp, the letters are 3/4" and 1/2". The leather is 3oz, I stained it saddle tan then airbrushed (AB) 2 coats of pro-clear. Then I applied with a wool piece fiebings antique black very heavy on the letters and the cross, I let it sit for 2 minutes or so. When I remove the excess with wool, paper towel or a flat scraper it pulls the paste out of the letter and cross depressions. WHY? I have watched numerous youtube video's and I do it exactly the same way. Is the letter not heavy enough? Should I let it sit longer? Or will this not work on stamps just tooling?

Thanks

Tony

[kiwican]

I dont have an answer but I'd like to know it too!

[howie696]

either the impressions are not deep enough or the pad you are using is too loose and floppy, try a hard flat pad of kitchen towel

[retiredff]

howie - The letters are painted, then resisted. I want the antique to stay in the letter recesses along the edges around the letters. It does work, sort of. On the letters I use sheep skin to wipe off the antique, on the firefighter emblem, I have tried the sheep skin, paper towels, paper towel wrapped around a 2x2 block, I tried a popcicle stick to try and scrape it off. That works sort of but when I use anything to clean it up, the antique is pulled from the recesses. Should I let it dry longer?

I may have a custom stencil made and just airbrush it. That way I can be more flexible and add flames, maybe a skull in the center. And I don't have to use tooling leather, I should be able to paint on any type of leather. My issue with that is I have never airbrushed like that...

[TomG]

Pictures would help. But I do a ton of this. I stamp, resist the stamps surface with 100% Resolene or Mop 'n Glo, hand dye with a sponge, dry thoroughly. Then coat both sides with Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Dry and buff.

Then I apply the Fiebings Antique Finish with a wool dauber. I let sit for about 1 minute. Then I use a scrap of old jean or other coarse material, folded into a firm pad. I hold it flat and rub all of the surface paste off. Then I turn up a clean side of the cloth, and buff the strap, getting the excess off but leaving the rest in the grooves.

The Antiquing finish can not be used for large depressions. It becomes a cake that will flake off with flexing. I may be wrong, but I don't think it is meant as a filler but more of a highlighter.

I have recently discovered Molotow paint markers. They come is a wide variety of colors, and tip sizes. They are also refillable and the tips/nibs are replacable.

BTW, don't waste your time with the Sharpie Oil Paint pens. The leather fibers and stuff plug them up very quickly. Not worth the money.

I'm attaching a photo or 2 of a couple of examples of the Antique finish versions.

[TomG]

Here are a few that I've used the Molotow paint pens on for highlighting. If the letters are colored, then that is probably acrylic paint on top.

Note: The "Chicken" collar is done with a black regular Sharpie.

[retiredff]

TomG,

You solved the problem with the firefighter emblem, the depressions are large, that's why the antique won't work. As for the sharpie pens, I found out the hard way. Do u have a link for the Molotow paint markers? I found some on Amazon but it doesn't say they are refillable. Those should work for me. The sharpies work when they worked, the tips stopped flowing quickly.

Thanks for the info

The pics you posted look good to me, just what I'm looking for.

Tony

[retiredff]

TomG - I found the company Molotow paint markers. What size tip did u use on the letters?

[retiredff]

I found someone who handles them. They carry the tip and refills. I wonder if I can use any acrylic paint instead of theirs?

I ordered them with 2mm tips and ordered 1mm and 1.5mm tips to experiment with the sizes. They were only $2.99 for 2 in a pack.

Thanks again Tom

EDIT: I emailed the company in Germany. We can use any acrylic paint we want to refill the pens. I didn't ask about other paint types.

Edited October 21, 2015 by retiredff

[TomG]

Weird. I never got notices of your replies. But glad you found your answers.

I use the 1.5mm for 1" letters and use the 1mm for smaller. Now, the Molotow 1mm tip has been called a SpecilTech or something like that. It clogs as badly as the Sharpies. But they have a new one called Crossover that is supposed to be shipped with the 127 EF model marker, which is what I use.

You can soak the tips in water to help keep them clear. You can also take a little piece of sponge and put it in the cap to keep the tip open.

Then you are using the pen in the grooves, don't push down hard. Prime your tip on a pad of paper, and if you have to push down to renew the flow, stop moving to do it and then continue. You'll get the hang of it.

Let me know how it goes.