Essential Tools For Beginners

[gaseousclay]

Hi everyone. I've poured over this forum and have found a great deal of info for getting into leatherworking. What has me stalling is deciding which tools I should buy (and from where) to test the waters. I've read numerous articles from established leather workers where they talk about how they spent hundreds of dollars on unnecessary tools and basically only use a handful to do their work. Of course, I realize the number of tools used will be dependent on the type of work that one does.

For the sake of simplicity, I would like to start making stuff like wallets, key fobs, bracelets and go up from there. I've compiled a list of tools but would like to weed out the ones I likely won't need right away. Is there anything missing that i've forgotten? I've highlighted the tools that I know are must haves no matter what, but some of the other stuff is a big question mark for me.

Razor Knife

Swivel Knife

Beveler

Camo Tool

Veiner

Seeder

Awl

metal ruler

Pear Shader

Mallet (with rubber ends)

Leather Pieces (5-6 oz to start)

Edge Beveler (medium)

Backgrounder

Stitch Groover

Feiblings Oil Dye

No.2 Harness needles

Waxed linen thread

Cutting mat (2 – one for cutting and the other for dying)

Stitching Pony

[AndersenLeather]

You are missing something to scribe a line along the edge and a way to mark your stitching holes. Normally you would use a pricking iron or an overstitch wheel. An overstitch wheel does not cost much and normally 3 wheels is included with 3 different spi (stitches per inch). I bought this when I was a beginner and used it until I got a pricking iron. I have never used it since.

Pricking irons are a bit more expensive and you need to know what spi you will be using.

If I were to do it again I would buy a wing divider. I use a wing divider all the time. Mainly for scribing a line along the edge for the pricking iron but also to mark holes and such. It is a very useful tool. It can also be used as a pricking iron. You start by making two marks. You then lift one leg up and turn the divider 180º while the other leg is still on the leather and make a new mark. It will take some time but it will work. This way you can get a feel of what type of pricking iron you need. You could also find a fork and use this as a pricking iron.

You don't need a mallet unless you have tools that needs to be punched.

Also you don't need a cutting mat for dying. Just cover your normal cutting mat with waxpaper or a plastic bag .

[thefanninator]

Looks like you're interested in carving & stamping. Get the best tools you can buy with the money you've decided to spend. If you realize later that leatherwork isn't for you, you can sell the good tools.

Barry King has a great set of stamps for $400. Yes, it's quite a bit of money to invest in for a beginner but it'll be worth it if you keep at it and if you don't you'll be able to sell it.

http://www.barrykingtools.com/sizelist.htm

Don't wanna spend that much? Check out: http://proleathercarvers.com

You might consider a stitching chisel instead of a pricking iron or overstitch wheel. You won't need an awl with the chisel, just punch it all the way through.

Swap the razor knife for a rotary blade. Olfa is a good one. I found mine on sale at Joann.

You'll need a finish over your dyes. Might try Fiebing's Tan-Kote.

Edited October 30, 2015 by thefanninator

[CrazedLemming]

Like they said, wing divider and a rotary cutter. Both are extremely useful. Amazon has better prices on the rotary cutters than craft stores do. (The 60mm fiskars I use is $25 in craft stores or about $14 on amazon.) Even at full craft store prices, a rotary cutter is a good investment though. Clean, smooth, straight cuts and the blades generally last a fairly long time.

Some kind of hole punches. Either single punches with a mallet or one of those rotary things with 6 punch sizes on a wheel. I would stay away from the sets that have interchangeable punches that screw onto a handle. The set I tried couldn't cut through soft butter.

Small detail knife. X-acto, scalpels, etc.

Mallet. It's just good to have for all kinds of things. The cheap plastic ones like tandy has are decent enough for starting. I wouldn't use the kind with rubber ends. For punching holes or setting snaps/rivets/gromets, a cheap dead blow hammer is nice.

Cutting board. Don't waste a cutting board as a dying surface. There are a lot of cheaper options. You can put down wax paper or plastic like Jonasbo said. I like surfaces I can clean and reuse; cheap plastic boards like coroplast signs, smooth white tile board, etc. My current main dying board is a chunk of FRP wall board I had left over from a project.

Harness Needles. The size designation depends on the brand. The 002 seems to be a common recommendation in the John James needles. If you deal with Tandy, theirs are marked sz 4, sz 0, and sz 000. Tandy sz4 = James 004, Tandy sz 0 = James 1/0; Tandy sz 000 = James 3/0. Tandy skips the 002 size which falls between 004 & 1/0. Some other brands have completely different numbering systems.

Edited October 30, 2015 by CrazedLemming

[Chief31794]

Lots of good advice here, only two notes, I would keep the razor knife and get a rotary knife, they both have their uses but I use the razor knife 90% of the time, the rotary 5% and a head knife 5%, the rotary is very helpful on lining and thin leathers. Also the blades are a lot cheaper for razor knives even with getting a sharpening system for the Olfa blades. The other note is in your list you have metal ruler, I would amend that to a metal ruler with cork backing, normal metal rulers slip bad when using them to cut straight lines and also will mark leather, cork backed rulers are a great tool in leather working.

Chief

[JLSleather]

Alrightey, then..

I'm a utility knife guy myself. Long straight cuts, you can't beat a utility knife.

I have aluminum "rulers" for cutting straight edges. Got mine at a building supply store (Menards', Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.). 6 foot one (longest they had at the time) plus a 24" x 16" aluminum 'rafter' square. For smaller projects, I use transparent plastic triangles, much like the kids would use for shool work (I know some folks will whine about this, but since most of 'em kaint whoop me, I don't care )

For dyeing, pick up some of that brown packaging paper at teh craft store (like maybe when you're getting teh plastic triangles). It's insanely cheap, and long as you aren't POURING dye on it, it will protect your table from dye and finish. When it gets dirty, simply replace it with some new. I get fairly large rolls at the hobby store for like $5 (does a LOT of projects and takes up very little space).

Know what makes an AWESOME stitching pony? One of those pivoting-jaw welding clamps. Under $10 (harbor freight, for one) and very versatile. If you need a longer jaw for wider projects, remember to pick up some 1/4" or 3/8" boards, available for a couple bucks at the hobby store (whree you are already shopping for plastic triangles, anyway).

For most work, I like a rawhide mallet. I've used Garland 11 oz rawhide mallets for years.. wore out some. I'm all about NOT spending money you don't need to, but I consider this money well spent.

As for leather, I like 2/3 or 3/4 for wallets (which I generally line with 1 1/2 0z chrome tanned). Leather thickness usually goes up as the project size goes up. I usually have 2/3 up to 8/9 around here.

It's important, perhaps more when you're new - not to get sucked into a bunch of stuff you don't need. TIP: there are people who want to sell you something.. not their problem if it doesn't aid you.

I haven't been up there for a couple years, but I know there's a Tandy in Bloomington and another in St Paul. You should go past those and look around a bit...

[gaseousclay]

Thanks for the helpful advice everyone. Like most people, im on a budget and don't want to spend a ton on tools. The main reasons being, if i lost interest or didn't do this very much it wouldn't hurt as much financially and also, i prefer quality ever quantity.

Ill look into your suggestions and do more research. I'd like to start small and learn the basics first and then go from there.

As an aside, where can i buy decent quality hides? I've read that Tandys hides aren't that great. What's a good leather to practice on?

[TinkerTailor]

The other note is in your list you have metal ruler, I would amend that to a metal ruler with cork backing, normal metal rulers slip bad when using them to cut straight lines and also will mark leather, cork backed rulers are a great tool in leather working.

Chief

I always look for rulers with the number lines etched in and not printed on. It allows you to put the point of the dividers right into the notches to get more accurate measurements and easier repeatability.

I have aluminum "rulers" for cutting straight edges. Got mine at a building supply store (Menards', Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.). 6 foot one (longest they had at the time) plus a 24" x 16" aluminum 'rafter' square. For smaller projects, I use transparent plastic triangles, much like the kids would use for shool work (I know some folks will whine about this, but since most of 'em kaint whoop me, I don't care )

The longest cheapest straight edges you can get are aluminum angle extrusions. They can be had in 8+ foot lengths. I have an 8' piece of heavier gauge 1.5" aluminum angle that i got for 20 bux or so at the metal supply store. I prefer to use it angle up, edges down. It stays straighter and gives me great knife clearance. I frequently use shorter pieces to place on glue seams while they dry. I place them with a flat side down on the seam and I can then stack up random weights on the aluminum angle, and the angle distributes the weight evenly over the seam while the glue dries.

Used tool shops, flea markets and garage sales frequently have perfectly good hammers and mallets for a couple bux. Likely made better than the Chinese made one at lowes. I have also found really good leaher tools at these places for cheap, a little sharpening is all they needed.

Do not buy little squares of granite/marble for tooling from leather places. Do a search on craigslist for used granite countertop. I also just search for the term "slab". Someone has ripped out a kitchen or bathroom nearby recently and usually granite is custom so it wont fit into another room, making it valueless and easy to aquire. I once found a 36" by 48" slab of granite polished on one side and a full 4" thick for free, just come get it. It was a little large (1000lb) for me but would be perfect for a bigger shop. It would cost hundreds if not thousands to buy this new.

Saving money is about keeping your eyes open. The more money you save on consumables, the more that is left over in the budget for materials. This is where you should be spending money. Even the best tools can't make crap shine......But with nice materials, simple construction and techniques accentuate the materials.

Your local dollar store is your friend. It is the best place for glue applicator sticks, squeeze bottles, cheap paint brushes, sponges and lots of other things. Get blue nitrile gloves at the drug store. They are usually under 10 bux for 100. I have bought plastic school binders 3 for a buck, discounted cause they wont hold paper and suck for their intended use. The covers make great sources for plastic patterning material however.

Or you can buy 5 dollar sponges and 6packs of gloves for 6 bux at tandy.