KGeorge Report post Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) So I'm working on my first saddle and I'm trying to get the rigging pattern right before I start cutting into leather. This is what I have so far. RangerRiggingPicture2 RangerRiggingPicture3 I started with the Al Stohlman style flat plate rigging in his saddle making encyclopedia books. I have modified it to the shape I like and for the back half to fit the curve of the cantle since it was way off before. I'm not sure if its full position or 7/8th or whatever it is but it seems to line up with Ranger's girth line and it seems to pull well on the saddle tree which is what I'm looking for. So the questions I have: Is the rigging too far forward? Is if too far up the swell? (I can always take leather out rather than put it back) And last but not least: If the rigging ring (I'm using Jeremiah Watt's inskirt rigging ring rather than the rigging plate) will end up too far down after it is installed in the rigging leather? Any help or comments would be very much apreciated! RangerRiggingPicture2 RangerRiggingPicture3 Edited October 2, 2022 by Wizcrafts The links are to empty files. I deleted the bad links. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KGeorge Report post Posted November 12, 2015 This is the look I'm trying to go for. I like the curve the front of the flat plate rigging has. The only things on this I would change are the tooling (more of it ) and make the skirts in the front drop a little more. Again any comments would be very appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KGeorge Report post Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) Here are the original pictires. I didn't realize you guys couldn't see them. Hubby had to fix it for me lol. Edited November 12, 2015 by KGeorge Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CWR Report post Posted November 13, 2015 From the pictures it does appear to be to far forward. Decide the rigging position that you want and mark it on the tree then draw your pattern to correspond with the mark on the tree. I like my rings to fall about 6 1/2" below the bar pad. Measure the distance from the bar pad down to the bottom of the pattern then add the distance your ring will be below the pattern. That will tell give you a place to start. Paper is cheap, I went through a lot of it before getting a pattern that satisfied me. Hope this helps, CW Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted November 13, 2015 It is actually a teensy bit forward of full and I think that it will not pull down as well as you predicted. If you like everything else about the shape, set, etc. take the rigging plate you intend to use and move it around till you think you have it and then mark the cutout. Another thing that you should consider and that is your stirrup leathers. How will the slot you cut in the ground seat line up? In other words will your stirrup leathers be free to move and rest without being hindered by the rigging. Just guessing from the pics it looks like a little work is needed there and personally, I would like it better if it were a bit more level across the top across the swells. If you have to, curve that top line a little to keep under the swell cut in the seat (not a concern if you will install the rigging before you cover the front. I know not everyone agrees with this but I wouldn't recommend doing it that way for the primary reason that it will make repairs much more difficult. Just a little sidebar here: the guy that taught me drilled this into me; chances are this saddle will last a long time and be back in here for repair at least once, always think about the guy who will be doing that and don't make his job harder if you don't have to.) Paper really is cheap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted November 13, 2015 I agree pretty much with Toot. Regardless of whether it is flat plate or inskirt, I like to let the rigging be over the fork cover, but; under the seat jockey and blended so that the bulge doesn't present itself. That said, I don't even have the rigging ring, or plate or D marked in the pattern. I set that after I have the rigging plates made and tacked in place giving me the "vision" I like. Then I mark and set the rigging Ds where they should go for a particular saddle. Since all of the saddles I make are made for specific horses, rather than using full, 7/8s., 3/4s and so on, I measure where it belongs on that horse and that's where it goes. I so check so that I can at least tell the owner after done, what position it is, for future reference. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cac Report post Posted November 14, 2015 For your consideration: Here is how I like my flat plate to look. Good luck, Clyde. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KGeorge Report post Posted December 19, 2015 Hope everyone is having a Merry Christmas! I apologize for taking so long to thank everyone for their replies and to respond. Life gets in the way sometimes and especially around this time of year. All replies were insightful and very helpful! Here is what I have now that some adjustments have been made. I chose the 7/8th position. I also wanted to ask about compressing the rigging. Has anyone done that? I read it makes it stronger, tool better and more dense to it takes a beating better. Is all of it true? And I'm guessing the compressing is done after the pieces are cut but before they are tooled and sewn together? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites