Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

My sharpening stones are a couple of old oilstones that are family heirlooms, then I go to a strop. The stones are quite worn, especially the medium-fine one, and I'm thinking of replacing them with water or diamond stones

I've had a look at these makes; size for size and grit for grit they all seem as though they'd do the same sort of job, and for a similar price. Is there anything to choose between them?

EZE Lap; DMT; Shapton

The tools are clicker knife, skiving knife; awl, a small woodworking plane, woodworking chisels, camping knives, and kitchen knives.

  • Members
Posted

Full sharpening (One example)

DMT Extra course/ Course or Atoma 140 preferable 8 inch, 6 inch(flattening stone and rough grit)

Shapton 1000 (medium grit)

Optional: King 6000 (light stropping)

Compound

clicker knife sharpening (a guess)

Diamond steel for clicker knife

Optional: Round waterstone

compound on rod w/ leather

  • Members
Posted

I have a full set of DMT bench stones, a Spyderco ceramic stone (fine) and some old, translucent Arkansas and Belgian Brocken. And I also use a bench grinder for final polish and I always have a strop with compound on hand.

I thrifted my first stones and used emery paper for some time until I bought the DMT's. I have to say that I'm very pleased with how they perform.

I'm by no means a sharpening wiz, and sometimes I think that it's more about luck than skills when I manage to get a knife scary sharp. But the DMT's certainly help. They're easy to use and maintain and they're fast.

Depending on your budget I would recommend

DMT Coarse

DMT Fine

DMT extra fine

Spyderco (or similar Japanese) ceramic stone

Posted

The two diamond hones I use the most are EZE-LAP 1200 grit and then DMT 8000 grit. As far as a final polishing stone, I pick one of a plethora of natural stones. The translucent Arkansas is always a good one.

Paul Zalesak

Leather Wranglers Inc.

www.leatherwranglers.com

  • Members
Posted (edited)

The problem with a question like this is that you can go round & round for ages, but eventually you have to settle on something

Normally I would wait a few days to see all the replies then mull things over for a week or so

However, I've seen an offer for DMT diamond stones, and as they are one of my favourite options anyway I've ordered them quickly in case I miss the offer

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk

They have are selling a DMT Diamond Whetstone, 6" x 2"/150mm x 50mm, including a leather pouch, for £32-95. The usual retail price in the UK is around £40, without a pouch.

I have ordered 325, 600, and 1200 grit - coarse, fine, and extra fine

I'll see how I go with these, and if I find I need something between the 1200 grit and the strop, DMT have an 8000 grit stone, though it is not on offer as above

I'm surprised that DMT do not have a stone about 3000 to 4000 grit

There are, of course, other makes available, and I've seen a 4000 grit, no soak/splash & go, Japanese waterstone for a reasonable price, about £25

I have also ordered a honing guide

Perhaps I was a bit lazy using the term 'clicker knife'. I actually use a Stanley knife and resharpen the disposable blades; so they have a straight edge

My apologies if this has caused anyone extra work

Edited by zuludog
  • Contributing Member
Posted

A long time ago I got tired of sharpening my knives etc. entirely by hand. Last year my beloved wife allowed me to buy

the Tormek system with lots of goodies. I have no need to do anything but strop my Wranglers or Knipper knives.

I can maintain an extremely accurate angle etc on any woodworking blade or the many others we have in our home plus "Hoof Trimmers" for goats. Family members have benefitted also. lol

All my old leather tools are scary sharp also.

ferg

  • Members
Posted

I have three knives sharpened by Paul Zalesak.

I bought the DMT stones and one of Paul's strops (see his website) to maintain them. None of those knives have ever been back to the stone/hone-ONLY stropped. They remain spooky/scary sharp. I refuse to allow any access to my shop when they are in use; distraction can be deadly.

I've used the aforementioned equipment to bring a variety of pocket, fixed blade and kitchen knives to levels of sharpness that make it a bit frightening to allow the unwarned or beginner user unsupervised access.

I have a 'flipper' style pocket knife of the same steel as the Leather Wrangler Round Knives (CPM S35VN). For reasons of personal safety I never 'flip' it open with the thumb stud, rather I use both hands and grasp only from the back edge of the blade when deploying the blade. When showing the knife I require a signed waiver of liability from anyone desiring a hands-on examination.

I have since acquired the Workshop system (table top and hand held) to restore and maintain lesser EDCs and kitchen knives. I can also speak well of the Spyderco SharpMaker system especial if augmented with the extra fine ceramic rods.

  • Members
Posted

Thanks for your advice and comments

I have a friend who runs a small woodworking company and he reckons the Tormek system is excellent; but I live in a flat and there's a limit to how far I can turn it into a workshop!

I think I'll keep things as they are for the moment. I'll see how I go with the DMI stones first. I can always add a couple of finer DMT or ceramic stones as I have hinted

My strop is made from a piece of scrap split leather and uses Autosol as a polishing compound

It would be easy and cheap enough to make another strop with better leather and a proper honing compound from someone like Veritas

  • Members
Posted

Well, my DMT stones arrived early this morning

I've tried them with a couple of 4" vegetable knives, and they do the job; not been stropped though as they are sharp enough for fruit & veg without.

I was told they would become finer as they were used, but they seem to have become quite smooth. I think I'll be able to go from extra fine to the strop without any problems

In fact, I was thinking of getting an extra coarse for the initial sharpening of my oilstone sharpened tools when transferring to a diamond stone

The lttle rubber feet aren't tto bad, but they don't give much clearance for your fingers, so I'll probably get the bench base

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...