Will The $150 Chinese Servo Motors From Ebay Work On An Old Adler 68?

[dikman]

Banjo, this is lifted from an older thread -

"Hi Skylark, this is the place I bought mine from, mainly because they had a warehouse here in Australia - If you go to www.aliexpress.com and search on sewing machine motor you'll find lots and lots. Many are the same motor, just different stores, and the prices will vary of course. Spend some time getting familiar with what's available as they come in 110v and 220v and hp varies too. Mine are 550w, roughly 3/4 hp.

Edit: blast, I had to delete part of the address 'cos it linked to my account!! The company I used is Lishiu Skyrit Import and Export."

See how you go, if you have trouble finding them let me know. Just make sure you're looking at 220v versions. My last one was the 750w model and was around $200 delivered. These have the controller box separate from the motor.

[dikman]

Just watched your video Vinculus, nice work. Mine can go a bit slower than that, if I want. I'm impressed with your post-bed/wheel foot operation, I've given up on mine (for now) because if I put any pressure on the material while it's feeding the needle deflects, hits the needle plate and it's bye bye needle!

Out of curiosity, what size needle are you using?

[Vinculus]

dikman, that doesn't sound right - is there slack in the needle bar or something? I've only broken one single needle since getting this machine three months ago, which to be honest is above all expectation. I'm currently running a size 90/14 needle with #69 nylon thread. From what I've read, the needle should actually be too small to handle that thread, but it works really well.

The Adler is probably just such a stubborn old beast

[dikman]

Nope, no slack, everything is adjusted correctly. I know it should work ok, but the needle only needs the slightest deflection and it hits the plate (size 100 needle). I'm not too worried about it at the moment, as I have three walking foot machines and a straight stitcher, which should cover everything I intend to do - for now. I'll probably look at it again some time in the future.

[banjo48]

As a follow up to this thread and thanks to member dikman, I ordered my new servo motor direct from China, Castle sewing in the UK wanted 90 pounds sterling to freight too Australia ! making their motor uneconomical at over $400au !

Motor was delivered in maybe 10 days from placing order on AlieExpress and I fitted it to a mates Consew 206RB this morning, got the 45mm pulley too and very impressed, I can do single stitches by tapping the pedal or super slow by just gently placing my foot on it.

Super powerful even at the slowest speed setting.

Only problem was we found the machine had a "canary" squeak when running so slow, took ages to find it but was in the walking foot height adjustment arm thing at the back of the head, think it may not have been getting oil to one bearing, but all good now, I've today ordered a second servo motor for my own machine a Seiko sth-8bld, didn't want to chance ordering two in case it didn't do the job.

The model was a Skyrit one HP 220v brushless servo but didn't bother with needle positioner. $240au delivered by Toll courier.

[dikman]

Glad it worked out ok, banjo. I found even the 3/4 hp has plenty of grunt, particularly when used with a speed reducer pulley set or a larger pulley in place of the handwheel.

[Kohlrausch]

Motor was delivered in maybe 10 days from placing order on AlieExpress and I fitted it to a mates Consew 206RB this morning, got the 45mm pulley too and very impressed, I can do single stitches by tapping the pedal or super slow by just gently placing my foot on it.

Super powerful even at the slowest speed setting.

The model was a Skyrit one HP 220v brushless servo but didn't bother with needle positioner. $240au delivered by Toll courier.

Hi and thanks,

that is good to know. Skyrit also has a warehouse in the United Kingdom, so they can deliver to EU-countries without toll and VAT added to the price. The 550 Watt motor without needlepositioner is quite attractively priced at 125 Euros including postage.

Greets

Ralf C.

[dikman]

Ralf, I have two of those and am very happy with them (I did buy the needle positioner with one, as it seemed like a good idea at the time, but after trying it out I took it off as at the slow speeds I work with it's not really needed).

[Trox]

dikman, that doesn't sound right - is there slack in the needle bar or something? I've only broken one single needle since getting this machine three months ago, which to be honest is above all expectation. I'm currently running a size 90/14 needle with #69 nylon thread. From what I've read, the needle should actually be too small to handle that thread, but it works really well.

The Adler is probably just such a stubborn old beast

HI, did you look for some downloads for your Adler 68? Here you will find manuals for the old classes not supported by DA anymore. http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html

They made these machine to good, they will not die. You can ask for a speed reducer from Sieck.de. However, it will make that motor setup to strong, needles will fly and the hook can easily be knocked out of position during sewing errors. That 68 do not have a safety clutch, or does it? I do not think it has. The more training you get, the faster you can go. I could recommend a good little needle position motor from Japanese Hohsing, the G60. I think it's about the same price as the largest Jack motor. However, it's made by one of the leading professional motor companies from Japan, and the needle position works on it of course. Then you have the German Efka motors, I use them on two of my machines, they are expensive but worth every dime.

Nice work!

Good luck!

Tor

[Vinculus]

Takk for linken Tor! I'm actually Norwegian, I just live in Finland. It's too bad the 68 manual is just available in German, as my middle school German is a bit rusty, haha.

I've become very acquainted with the speed of the Jack motor now and don't really feel like I need to reduce the speed any further. Certainly wouldn't want to screw up anything because of too much torque either, so I think I'll just keep everything as-is for now. Thank you for the suggestions though, I will keep those in mind if I want to upgrade in the future!

[banjo48]

Had another play on mates Consew 206RB-4 today and found I can slow the machine even more now, the Skyrit chingalese instructions were a little vague and I seem to have the 4 button controller not the simpler 2 button one, for programming, but after a bit of frustration I sussed it out, I have the max speed set at 1000rpm, but by feathering the pedal I can hit perfect single stitches every time, and if I need a burst of higher rpm I just hit the + button and can ramp it up to whatever up to 3000rpm in 25rpm increments.

I made the mistake of holding the head pulley wheel as you do with the clutch motor, and boy does this thing have some torque !

Will repeat yet again I am super pleased with this little servo motor.

[dikman]

G'day banjo, all of mine are two button controllers, other than the four button ones displaying a bit more info on the control panel there's not much difference that I can see. I found that the first two parameters, N1 (startup speed) and N2 (max speed) were the only ones that really had any effect. If you fit the needle position device and turn it on then other settings become active, but other than that you can't change much.

I set both of these to 10, I assumed this meant 100 rpm for N1 and 1000 rpm for N2, even though they refer to "spm" in the description part of the table.

From what I noticed if you set the max speed lower then the slowest speed is also lower, i.e. it will crawl along slower. Of course, having a speed reducer fitted also affects things, as 1000rpm on mine will be a lot slower at the needle than on your mates if he has a direct drive.