Blanchard Pricking Irons And Tiger Thread

[SmokeyPoint]

Attached is a picture of a "chart" I made on fairly thick leather to show the differences between thread size, thread shape and stitch length for various threads. I use this to choose the thread/SPI combination for the project I’m working on.

The Chart:

The chart lays out stitch lengths across the top in Stitches per Inch (SPI). You need to add one to that number to get the Tines per Inch (TPI). You’re on your own for MM’s.

The left side of the chart shows the thread size. The Tiger Thread goes from 0.6mm to 1.4mm, and the bonded nylon machine thread is listed by its size at 69, 138 and 277.

Some Background:

I had some trouble guessing at just the right combination of stitch length to thread size when I started exploring Tiger Thread and European pricking irons. Some online videos got me in the ballpark. So bought a set of irons, some sample spools of Tiger Thread, and went to work. Now I have a more extensive tool set and a full suite of Tiger Thread, so I can use this chart to choose among my options.

Since Dixon is out of business, and the GoodsJapan European-style pricking irons are no longer available, V. Blanchard is pretty much the only game in town for European-style pricking irons. So we’re clear here, by “European-style” I mean the diagonal slash mark irons that are not meant to be punched all the way through the leather. They make a / / / / / mark rather than a series of diamond-shaped holes.

For this chart, I lightly struck the irons so they just pierced the top grain of the leather, but didn’t make it even half-way through. I used an awl to punch the hole the rest of the way through. For 5 & 6 SPI, I used an awl that was .14” wide to accommodate the larger threads that I would normally use at those lengths. For the rest, I used an awl that was around .11” Note: Blanchard irons seem to be consistent in the length of the slits at 3mm each/ 0.118” for all stitch lengths - something that surprised me. I can make the longer stitch length slits longer, but I can't make the shorter stitch length slits shorter without grinding on some very expensive tools.

For those who have never encountered Tiger Tread (aka Ritza 25), it’s not round. It’s more of an oval shape: 1.4mm tiger thread is about 0.8mm thick. Black is one of the very few colors of Tiger Thread that is available from 0.6mm all the way up to 1.4mm. Most colors are available from 0.6mm through 1.0mm, with 1.0mm being offered in the widest array of colors.

My Conclusion:

Clearly, I still lack 10 SPI irons – maybe next Christmas, but this chart is mostly complete for what I sew. If I were to put a pin in the optimal thread size/stitch length for my tastes, it would go 1.4@6, 1.2@7, 1.0@8, etc. That said, there are useful applications to the left and right of each of these if you play with the width of the awl. (or don't get tired and get sloppy on the 1.4 as I clearly did here.) Also, don't flame me on this one, I said "for my tastes".

I hope this helps others in their search for their “right” combination or picking out a thread/iron combo for those just starting out. I still need to do the same thing on thinner/softer leather with the shorter stitch lengths once I get my 10's.

-Sean

[grmnsplx]

Real nice. I like what you did there.
On your chart I really like the 0.6mm at 9spi, 8spi too. I like the 0.8mm at 8spi and 7 isn't.
I think I prefer the 1.0mm at 7spi over 8spi.

1.2 looks good at 6 and 7spi

The tines on your 5 and 6 spi irons are really big, eh?

I recently got a few sets of irons that are closer to 6.5, 7.4, 8.3 and 9.25 SPI (3.85mm, 3.38mm, 3.00mm, 2.70mm)
I find that the 0.8mm Tiger thread looks good at 3.38mm and 3mm, 0.6 looks good at 3mm. Not sure how I feel about the 2.7mm with 0.6 Tiger thread yet.

[SmokeyPoint]

Real nice. I like what you did there.

On your chart I really like the 0.6mm at 9spi, 8spi too. I like the 0.8mm at 8spi and 7 isn't.

I think I prefer the 1.0mm at 7spi over 8spi.

1.2 looks good at 6 and 7spi

The tines on your 5 and 6 spi irons are really big, eh?

I recently got a few sets of irons that are closer to 6.5, 7.4, 8.3 and 9.25 SPI (3.85mm, 3.38mm, 3.00mm, 2.70mm)

I find that the 0.8mm Tiger thread looks good at 3.38mm and 3mm, 0.6 looks good at 3mm. Not sure how I feel about the 2.7mm with 0.6 Tiger thread yet.

Thanks, actually the tines on the 5 and 6 irons are exactly the same: 3mm long. I just used a wider awl on those two columns. I wish I had used the narrower awl for the finer threads, but it's not likely that I'll ever use 0.6 or 0.8 at 5 or 6 spi, and i wanted each column to be consistent. Getting the 1.2mm and 1.4mm thread through the slits made by the narrower awl used for 7-9 required pliers.

Here are the original iron marks:

[soccerdad]

Sean,

Thanks for a really interesting post. Really helpful to see all this side-by-side.

Speaking of Blanchard ... I wonder who else has tried Amy Roke irons, which look to have teeth of similar shape as Blanchard but with a couple of key differences. They are made to punch all the way though the leather, and they are less expensive than Blanchard irons. I bought a 12-tooth and 2-tooth (size #8) in October and have found them to be absolutely terrific in use (they look cool, too). Other sizes and numbers of teeth are available. The holes are clean and maintain consistent size as you drive them though leather. I saw first them on the web somewhere -- possibly on the Peter Nitz Instagram account (http://www.instagram24.com/atelierpeternitz/p/1100197022223202417_239190925?page=1102144427680234455_239190925). I paid $236, inclusive of shipping from China, for the two irons, which arrived about three weeks after ordering.

Some photos of the irons: http://world.taobao.com/item/525594177341.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.jzA2AB#detail

I saw first them on the web -- possibly on the Peter Nitz Instagram account: http://www.instagram24.com/atelierpeternitz/p/1100197022223202417_239190925?page=1102144427680234455_239190925

I ordered via email: Atelier Amy Roke <atelieramyroke@hotmail.com>