Help With Pattern From Stohlman's Book On Holsters

[garypl]

I think on the previous page (22) there is a similar pattern for 4 or 6" k frames. I was going to see how this pattern (pg 23) fits my 3" Ruger SP101. If it is not a good fit it may work with my S&W J frame. If nothing else, this is a good learning experience for my first attempt at a holster.

[garypl]

Well, I finished my first holster. I made a few mistakes along the way (punched a few crooked holes along the seam, made the belt loop a little tight, and generally just didn't finish it as well as I should have.)

It does fit my Ruger 3" SP101 and it also worked with my S&W J frame. One of the hardest tasks was punching the holes for the edge seam through both sides of the holster and the welt. I started the holes with a 2 prong punch on each side and then finished the holes with an awl. Must be an easier way to do it?

I will appreciate any comments and criticism. Next project I want to try is a holster for a Ruger Blackhawk.

Thanks again to everyone for sharing all the helpful information on this forum!

Gary

[byggyns]

There really isn't an easier way to do it with hand stitching tools. You could use a drill press to drill the holes for your main seam, but I don't like the round hole look.

You just need to sharpen that awl really well so it slides through the leather like butter. Also, you really need a clamp / stitching horse when dealing with this weight of leather. Having the ability to press a cork to the back side when pushing the awl through is really helpful, and not having to juggle the holster, 2 needles, thread, and the awl all at the same time is nice.

For your first holster, your edges turned out a lot better than my first attempt. The stitching looks pretty clean as well.

[garypl]

Thanks for your comments! I wonder if drilling small holes first, followed by punching the leather with a punching awl would work? I will try this when I get some spare time.

I used a stitching pony to hold the holster while stitching, but some of the thicker areas required me to take it out and hold it down on the table while I used the awl to punch the holes. You are right about keeping the awl sharp.

I will learn from this attempt and try another holster soon.

[MalletMan]

What I do with holsters is punch a few holes, making sure the top and bottom line up (the middle should line up if the top and bottom do), then I stitch them with a small piece of thread, then I punch a few more holes and stitch them with another small piece of thread. I work my way up using small but strong spring powered clamps to keep the sides together straight, making sure the top is still aligned, punch a few holes at a time and stitch them, etc. Till I get to the top. I use 2-3 oz leather between the clamps and the leather to prevent them from leaving dents.

I just use small piece of thread to stitch the holes a few at a time so when I undo the bottom thread holding a few holes together I can start with my final thread and the rest are held together. Thread the few holes the first small piece of thread was holding together. Then undo the next small piece holding the next few holes together and stitch them etc.

This technique works great on long barreled holsters like the Python 375mag. But I imagine it would work on smaller ones too. Anytime I have like a long stretch of stitching to do, I line the sides up, clamp them together and punch a few holes, stitch them, then punch a few more, then go back and run the final thread.

Sometimes I have to use real small "C" Clamps, the kind with threads, to press the leather together and hold it until I can get the holes punched and threaded. My stitching pony only holds items, it won't hold them together while using an awl or something to poke holes, or to punch them. I did have to use a small piece of 2-3oz leather between the "C" clamp and the holster so that the discs on the "C" clamp don't leave dents.

I hope this helps...

Bob

[garypl]

Thanks for the tip Bob! Question: do you glue the pieces before you stitch the edges? Or do you just use the small pieces of thread to hold everything in alignment?

[MalletMan]

I typically stitch 4-5 holes so the stitches hold it in place w/o glue. I don't think even contact cement would hold a holster in place while I punched holes, or poked them. I use the clamps to hold it in place while I punch the holes and stitch small segments together. I usually use a very thick 8-9 or 10-11 ounce leather to make a holster, then I also use a pig skin lining so the rough flesh side of the leather doesn't rub the bluing off the gun. Here I live by a Tandy outlet. They have pig skin for $20, it is about 7-9 sf. It is very thin, but it just needs to keep the flesh side away from the gun, so It works great as a liner. I only glue the bend, where the holster is bent in half w/contact cement. Other wise it wrinkles when I bend it over. I first bend the holster, put the contact cement on both pieces, then slide the pig skin in with it about half way bent over. Then hold it bent all the way until it dries. Bending the leather and keeping it bent for a while helps to hold the holster in the bent position once your ready to stitch. But that is the only glue I use on a holster. Generally I will use an over sized piece of pig skin, then trim it once I bend the holster leather all the way shut. I can't get it to line up otherwise. I just use small scissors to cut it once I have it bent but before I stitch it or lace it.

Bob

[garypl]

Thanks for the additional tips Bob. I never tried this method, but I had the same problem trying to punch holes in thick leather without moving the glue joint - just too much stress pulling the diamond chisel out of thick leather.

I would have thought that the liner would bunch up unless it was glued over its entire surface. I guess it is only held in place by the stitches around the edge? I already started a second holster and used leather that is about 1/8" thick and lined it with some very thin veg tan leather. I made and cut a pattern, then glued the liner - I already see what you mean about the wrinkles. I will post some pictures as I progress with the new holster - I am learning new techniques every day!

[MalletMan]

Yeah, every time I made anything out of leather and glued the entire liner to the cover it wrinkled at the bend. What I do is pre-bend the cover, then glue the liner while it is bent. It can be 3/4 bent over and it will still not produce a wrinkle if you glue the liner to it while it is bent 3/4 over. I make a line of glue approximately 3/4 of an inch the whole length of the holster/checkbook what have you, and make a 3/4 inch wide strip of glue on the liner, then stick them together. Then bend it the rest of the way after your glue it and let it dry. Then the stitches will hold the rest of it because it has no where to go. The glue holds it at the bend and the stitches hold it at the ends. Tricky to figure out, but it seems to work on check books too. For wallets I use a different technique because they open all the way. I would have to send you some pictures of the wallet I am making now to show you how I do it. But it prevents the dreaded wrinkles too.

You're welcome. Let me know how it turns out. BTW, I "think" Sears had the very small "C" clamps I use, but you could probably find them on ebay or something. The ones I use are about 1-1/2" in length.

Best Wishes!

Bob

[Josh Ashman]

I hand stitched holsters, tack and saddles for years and my method couldn't be more different than you two are talking about. I glue the main seam with a good quality contact cement, usually Masters or Barge. If you use it per the directions it will generally hold. If you have a tight fold on a thick piece of leather you may have to wet the fold or put a few hand shoe tacks in the stitch groove to help hold it. Typically the only time I've had trouble is with saddle scabbards out of 12-14 oz leather down at the barrel end, usually the contact cement just holds. Anyway, once it's glued I place one of those rubber poundo boards that Tandy sells over a vinyl cutting board and stab all of my holes straight down through the stitch groove. The leather is stable while stabbing so it doesn't try to push out of shape. I never had a problem with the cutting board dulling my awl and the 1/4" or so thickness of the rubber poundo mat makes a nice depth to stab through the back side. Once all of the holes are stabbed put it in a stitching horse and sew it up with one piece of thread with a needle at each end using a saddle stitch. When I make a lined holster the lining is solidly cemented to the main piece then treated like a single layer. If it wants to wrinkle on the fold then wet it a little and smooth it out with a smooth faced hammer. With a sewing machine everything is the same until it's glued, instead of stabbing holes with an awl and then saddle stitching it just goes tot he sewing machine.

Different strokes for different folks, everybody should do what works best for them.

Good luck figuring out your way,

Josh