Tallbald Report post Posted January 16, 2016 I always search tutorials and threads before asking but this time I'm seeing little to address my specific questions about holster lining. I'm teaching myself to line my holsters at the request of numerous customers. I use high quality 7-8 ounce vegetable tanned leather for holsters, and have on hand 2 ounce veg tanned pigskin for lining. I understand prep, cutting and such and feel confident. But what I am not so sure about is the exposed edges of the laminated combination. My holsters are machine sewn. I use Weldwood Contact cement for the gluing. With a lined holster, even though my stitch line is within 3/16 inch of the exposed edge (for example at the edge of the holster bucket where the handgun is constantly inserted) and I glue thoroughly right out to the very edge, isn't there the risk in time of the lining coming loose and separating from the 7-8 ounce layer? How is this prevented? Should I move the stitch line closer to the exposed edge? I do trim and use gum trag for burnishing exposed edges on my holsters and belts, and use Resolene top coat finish. Thank you as always. Don. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) Two things: 1) I don't like pigskin for a liner, . . . it just never worked for me as well as I wanted it to, and sometimes I could not get the edge to look good, . . . it seemed to pretty much stay together, . . . but looked funky, . . . and 2) try using suede leather, . . . I've never had any issues with the ones I've done in suede, . . . and the old wives tale about it rusting your gun because of the chrome salts, . . . it's so much hogwash in my opinion. Better yet, . . . use two layers of the same thickness of veggie tan, . . . my "better" grade western holsters are all made this way. It is the best lining you can do for the treatment of the weapons, . . . and it seems to be more indestructable. That said, . . . I pretty much use your process except for the gum trag. Had a bottle of it, . . . threw it in the trash. If you get any of it any place where it is not supposed to be, . . . forget dying that piece of leather. Gum trag is a wonderful resist for stopping dye in its tracks. But to answer the HOW??? I think it was John Bianchi in one of his videos, . . . maybe not, . . . whatever. When you are doing the forming of the holster, the last thing you do before you hang it up to dry, . . . gently take your thumb and flare the mouth of the holster slightly outward. It is not supposed to look like the fat end of a Bflat trumpet, . . . just ever so slightly flared, . . . giving the weapon a sort of "funnel" to guide it down in. The upside of that flaring is that it also adds incredible strength to that outside of the holster. It will seriously help it from crushing flat should it get really bad squeezed. I've never had a problem using this process. May God bless, Dwight Edited January 16, 2016 by Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tallbald Report post Posted January 18, 2016 Dwight thank you so much for your reply. I'll integrate some of your technique into my new venture farther into the craft. Don. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites