Lining The Rigging

[KGeorge]

I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I should line part of the rigging or the whole thing? I'm using the stohlman design so it wraps around the cantle and laces together. Im guessing lining the whole rigging would be ideal for strength but I know it would add a lot of bulk under the rear jockeys? I can't find anything in the saddle making material I have or the web so I'm not sure what to do.

[kseidel]

There are some variables depending on rigging style, however, best rule is to run linings to the swell and cantle, ensuring that you have doubled leather where the screws will be. You do not need to be full thickness, but I advise at least half thickness for lining and three fourths for top rigging leather. Once you get past the area where the cantle rosette will be a couple of inches, the balance of the rigging extending around the cantle can be single ply.

[KGeorge]

Thank you, that makes total sense. So if I'm using 13-15 oz skirting the top layer could be about 10 oz and the lining could be around 6-7 oz? And I've heard of lining the rigging with either veg tan or latigo. I would think latigo would be stronger but I know it stretches more. What do you line yours with?

[kseidel]

You should be using full thickness premium cut skirting for the outside of a flat plate rigging, and at least 10 oz for lining. You can skive it thinner, as I described before, where the rigging lays over the tree. I use skirting or harness for lining. I feel latigo has too much stretch over the long-term.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

I also do it the same way Keith describes when making a saddle with plate rigging.

Bob

[KGeorge]

Thank you very much! This is the pattern I have for my rigging so far. I know there is not a ton of room at the top where the stirrup leather goes through but I left that in the pattern so that when I get it lined and together I can skive it down to an angle to make a smooth transmission for the stirrup leather. What do you guys think? Please ignore the trash on the deck in the back ground lol.

[kseidel]

Sorry no one replied to your last post. I must have missed it. Your rigging looks like it is a good fit for position on that tree on that horse. Some concern regarding the rear rigging position height... It may be too high relative to your skirts/jockeys. As far as the front, cut an arc inside the ring, as opposed to the straight line. As far as the cut out for the stirrup leathers, your space is adequate. You can do all the skiving on the "inside" of the rigging parts and then not have to skive a big bevel on the surface. That always seems like a poorly planned after-thought to me. Curious how your saddle is progressing?

[KGeorge]

It's progressing well! I'm very pleased with it so far although it's not perfect. Thank you for the tip on skiving the inside of the rigging instead of that bevel. That seams like it would keep moisture/sweat out better as well. I fully plan on cutting an arc I just did the flat line on the pattern to save a little time. As far as the second rigging goes I was planning to do short jockeys and skirts. Something like this... but the rear rigging may still be too short?

Here are some pictures of what I have so far.

I'm hoping the ground seat angle is good. It feels good when I sit in it. I have one more piece to put on as far as the ground seat goes.

Edited February 29, 2016 by KGeorge

[kseidel]

Your ground seat should be good once you get the last piece in place. As far as the rear rigging, with rivet in dees, I like to keep the rivets below the tree. Keep it as high as you want, and keep your skirts and jockeys short, but consider trying to keep the rivets below the tree for the sake of the rivets damaging the rawhide.

Keep up the good work.

Keith