Unravelling The Mysteries Of The 211G156.

[rac1812]

I am getting so much valuable information here that I have decided to subscribe to a one year paid membership

Thanks all.

Bob C

Edited February 5, 2016 by rac1812

[gottaknow]

Those supposed to be thread lube pads are pretty useless. It was a good concept by Singer, but if you need to lube your thread, lube it like a boss and soak the cone in silicone.

Regards, Eric

[rac1812]

Hi Eric

Under what circumstances would lubrication (silicone soak or otherwise) be needed....?

My heavy sewing needs will be to primarily deal with canvass tarp material referred to as 18oz. The tarp is made but will need some modification to repro a 1940 style tarp with roll up sides. That implies adding leather straps to allow the rolled up side to be held securely in the up position. Said leather straps will need some canvass reinforcements to be sewed in where the straps will attach.

In lighter canvass, probably in the range of 12 to 14oz, we will need to make individual seat covers and back covers with a small piping around the edges. We have original canvass covers but do not wish to actually use them but prefer to make new covers for everyday use/wear. Those NOS dated 1940 covers will be the basis for making patterns. Our first run will be using plain white canvass of same thickness so we can learn and possibly have proof the paterns are accurate...... then will tackle the real ones.

We also have numerous other canvass items to reproduce such as transmission shifter boots.... truck has 2 tranny towers, 2 emergency brakes and a starter lever that all need boots to control dirt/water from entereing the cab. Also need to reproduce bags to store the canvass side door windows and that includes reproduction the canvass side windows with new vinyl inserts. Will be wroking from some NOS and some tattered remains.

Any suggestions regarding thread type....size... needle style and size would be appreciated. We have ordered some small quantity of 18 to 21 regular point needles and some similar size leather wedge point which we will use for our set up and testing of the machine.

Trying to get it to work reliably before sinking more money for a servo........ which form what I have read should be brushless and at least 755 w to insure proper torque at the bottom speed range. I have already changed from a 3450 rpm motor to a almost new 1750 motor and it is still tooooo fast for good control.

Bob C

[shoepatcher]

rac1812,

You can either get a speed reducer to go with your new motor or get a servo motor that can be turned down as tot he speed without loss of torque.

As to thread, I would think you would want to use #92 or #138 for sizes. I would use a cotton wrapped polyester which is a more waterproof thread. I would use #21 or #22 round point needles. Size #22 is about the smallest needle you can use with #138 thread.

Just suggestions.

glenn

[Darren Brosowski]

Or just use high end bonded polyester which feels like it is lubricated!

Those supposed to be thread lube pads are pretty useless. It was a good concept by Singer, but if you need to lube your thread, lube it like a boss and soak the cone in silicone.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

Even when running bonded polyester in a 4000 spi chainstitch, there are times you still need to soak the thread in silicone. Last time was joining nylon flag stripes a 100 yards at a time without stopping. Air cooling helps as well.

Regards, Eric

[rac1812]

Thanks for all the advice guys. As they say information is priceless.

Will focus on #92 thread size to start with..... have a variety of needles coming off Ebay from 18 to 22 in regular point and leather chisel point.

I did not buy the round point needles as I was under the impression those were used with synthetic fabric and you would not want to pierce the woven threads.

Was I wrong???? Now is the time to find out before I bugger up good Olive drab material.

Following a suggestion for doing the set up using a 1/4 in drill depth guide I cornered a set of doeas at Lowe's.....now I can move on to the needle/hook/needle guide part of the process.

My sewing machine work is done in a heated garage/barn right now and the night time temperature willbe around -25 Celsius which means at least 4 hours of blazing fire in Lucifer to bring the ambient temperature to about 45 Farenheit........ hard to work on those small screws with gloves and wearign a parka.

So I am spending my time doing door skins on the 1940 Chev...... at least the heat from moving around and using the Oxy - Acetelyne torches helps a lot.

I have on order a needle bar thread guide and was thinking of modifying another NOS thread guide to fit the existing screw hole where the oiler felt was installed.

Looking forward to properly setting up the needle/hook/bobbin when the weather gets a little milder.

Still playing with setting up a knee lifter bar at the back at least so the lifter will actually release the tension on the front thread tension set up.

Will be down loading some of the videos and still pics that you have sent or found on ther web onto a laptop so I can have the information in the shop close at hand.

Again thanks for all the help and will post my progress or frustrations as they occur.

Bob C