tardis86 Report post Posted February 3, 2016 So I'm trying to make my first wallet and i am using a thin sheep's skin for the interior and i cant figure out how to burnish the edges. When i get it wet and try to burnish the edges with my wood slicker its too flimsy and it seems like the leather is just stretching. Any ideas? thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thefanninator Report post Posted February 3, 2016 Most use edge paint on thin leathers like this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted February 4, 2016 goat and sheep skin, really any chrome tanned based leather, aren't going to burnish well. Use edge paint as thefanninator mentioned or you will have to get a heat sealer to burnish them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tardis86 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 Wouldn't dying the leather be enough? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted February 4, 2016 no because the dye will soak in but it won't protect the edge or give it smooth finish Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tardis86 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 how do you heat seal leather? a google search didn't turn up much Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted February 4, 2016 how do you heat seal leather? a google search didn't turn up much A fileteuse tool is used on edges and for creasing by high end bag/wallet people. They are not cheap, several users have cobbled together their own. Look up that word, "fileteuse" you will find the start of the rabbit hole...... The old way was to use special irons that were heated over a candle or an alcohol flame. Old time shoemakers would burn the stray fibers off over a candle when vamping uppers. This also slightly shrinks and hardens the remaining fibers in the edge. There are a couple hand made shoe vids on youtube that show and explain this. Btw candles leave soot and alcohol burners do not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted February 4, 2016 http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-electric-creaser Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted February 4, 2016 http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-electric-creaser I was playing around on the site, I found that they charge $180 dollars for the straight handle upgrade to one side of the dual handle option instead of the standard one? In the picture the only difference is the wood. The straight one is easier to make, it is just a cylinder..... I guess after they got you to pay $1000 for a temp adjustable soldering iron with a couple tips, why not bend you over and charge $180 more to cut less wood off of a dowel........Wow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tardis86 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 It looks like a glorified soldering iron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grmnsplx Report post Posted February 4, 2016 I have been able to accomplish a decent burnish on goat... This is a firm veg goat leather, lined with veg pigskin on the inside. When I burnish thin leather like this, I press it down on a flat surface and rub the edge with a cloth. Flip it over and repeat. I also place the piece down on the edge of a flat surface and rub against that (on the side). Get your moisture right, and you should be fine.The goat used in the wallet above is pretty firm so I had an easier time. A lot of goat skin out there is pretty soft so it's more challenging to burnish, but I think it can be done. I imagine the same for sheep. I have some veg sheep at home which I will try to use for wallet interiors also, so we'll see. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted February 4, 2016 It looks like a glorified soldering iron They are similar, but not the same. The temp of a soldering iron is too high and the tips are not right. I believe the tool in the link has the thermocouple and an induction coil in the head to better control temp as well. It has some advantages, however the price is crazy for how simple it is to build with the right tools. The base is a soldering base with the temp turned down electronically and the head is a piece of steel rod heated by a magnetic coil with a hunk of appropriately machined steel brass brazed on to the tip. Not hard in a shop, once you have a design worked out. Even with design costs, $1000 is alot. For that i would like a little less blobbyness in the brass braze and a little nicer handle than a hollowed out broomhandle. Premium products need premium materials. For 20-30 bucks in materials, you could have a very classy looking unit, with a nice etched brass faceplate on the box and a rosewood or something handlepiece. Make it worth the extra price. Make it look nice. It is not alot to ask for at that price range. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grmnsplx Report post Posted February 4, 2016 Also, I made another wallet with a softer goat leather and was able to achieve a decent burnish. This stuff was a bit spongy and difficult to burnish so I cycled my burnishing with water and synthetic gum trag (japanese stuff called tokunol or something like that) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
