catsmith Report post Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) First post here. I have made a whopping total of 5 holsters now. This one I am not entirely happy with but the guy using it likes it. Please let me know what you think. Edited February 15, 2016 by catsmith Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwican Report post Posted February 15, 2016 I dont know much about making them but more wet forming and molding would have helped out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
longtooth Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Hoping this will help. From what I see in the pictures. Edges need to be smoothed and painted The stitching should be close to the trigger guard. From what I see the gun in time will fall in and and may interfere with the magazine release. As stated above, wet forming and a little detail would go a long way. When I mould my holsters then I sew the stitch line around the trigger guard. This helps me get really close and tight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catsmith Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Thank you both for the tips. You do bring up an excellent issue. This is the first Flock/block/flock I have worked with. Revolvers are easy to work with. You can get great detail. There is no real detail to mold to. He is a lefty so the ejection port is against the body. Past that there just is not much there. Any ideas? Here are a couple more pics. Yes I have to get better at edge dressing. I'm not real crazy about real dark edges though. I tried using beeswax this time. Yes my stitching did not end up as planned on the trigger guard either. the best laid plans of mice and men...... I will take any and all pointers. Thank you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snubbyfan Report post Posted February 15, 2016 Overall, I think it's a good design. I'm not a big fan of blocking a holster to death. Rather, just enough forming to securely hold the gun, like this Glock 43 holster. In my opinion, not only should the stitching come closer to the trigger guard but to the edge of the holster as well. I usually run mine somewhere between 3/16 of an inch and 1/8 of an inch. The belt slots need to be refined, finished and burnished on the inside. Burnishing an edge doesn't necessarily mean that it'll be substantially darker, just gives the whole piece a more refined, finished look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
malabar Report post Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) To mold, or not to mold, that is the question. Part of it is your style. Part of it is function. Part is what your customers expect. All of my holsters are wetformed to conform to the shape of the gun and then baked to hold the shape. The "fit" of the holster is part of what you become known for. I bone in details because it makes the holster more marketable. tk Edited February 18, 2016 by malabar Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Modad2010 Report post Posted February 22, 2016 Something I would suggest is to glue your front and back pieces together, then sand the edges square. Then use your edge beveller around the holster - front and back. Next burnish the edges. makes for a much more finished look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites