Juki 1508N Top Thread

[BMW]

I am trying to achieve a visual stitch look on a purse and need a larger thread on top.

I have a Juki 1508N. I know the machine is rated to use 138 in the bobbin but was wondering if I could step up to a 207 on top and keep the 138 in the bobbin.

Does anyone ever use different thread weights between top and bottom?

Is this a bad idea?

[Uwe]

Not a bad idea at all, in fact many folks do exactly that. I've seen user manuals also recommend using one size smaller thread in the bobbin than in the top.

[Wizcrafts]

You may have to tweak the latch opener and also widen the notch in the throat plate to give the shuttle and bobbin more clearance. But try it first. Some tweaks will be needed, but it is probably doable. The check spring will also probably need to be readjusted to keep tension on the stronger thread (to keep it taut on the beginning of the take-up lever's downstroke, but let go at the right moment). Document all changes so you can revert to the original setup if it doesn't work out, or to sew with lighter thread.

FYI: The Juki 1508NH is already setup to sew with #207, on top and in the bobbin. A trade up might be worth inquiring about.

[BMW]

Thanks for the info!

My 1508N is brand new. I think I got sales bamboozled!

I asked several times what the difference was between the N and NH model and never got a good answer.

I found out the NH can handle heavier thread too late. Oh well live and learn.

Actually 138 may do the trick for me. I am currently using 69 but it doesn't stand out enough for my liking.

Thanks again guys!

[Wizcrafts]

Ask the dealer what they will charge to upgrade you to an NH, or to readjust your machine to NH thread handling specs.

[BMW]

You can modify the N to an NH?

If that can be done easily I would be interested.

[Wizcrafts]

You can modify the N to an NH?

If that can be done easily I would be interested.

I didn't say that. You can modify the N thread handling capability and tension and pressure springs to NH specs. That is only a part of the difference between those models. The NH is built to sew thicker material (almost 1/2 inch) and uses a longer needle system (class 190 Pfaff system). There are both mechanical and physical differences between the two machines. That's why there is a big price difference to match.

[BMW]

Got it. Thanks Wiz.

I am only sewing thin material 3.5 to 4 oz. leather, so the height is not important to me.

[Uwe]

I doubt it can be retrofitted to NH specs. The NH version has a different feed dog movement and 2Kg worth of parts that the NS version does not have, according to the LU-1500 Series brochure which details the differences between the machines.

Edited February 18, 2016 by Uwe

[Wizcrafts]

Got it. Thanks Wiz.

I am only sewing thin material 3.5 to 4 oz. leather, so the height is not important to me.

You will have difficulty centering the knots of 207 bonded thread in such thin material. You are more likely to have success sticking to a maximum of #138 thread for this thickness.

[BMW]

Thanks again for all the advice guys. Wish you had been the salesman I worked with.

I think I will try and stick with the 138 for now. I have only used 69 so far and don't know what the 138 will look like or how much the stitching will stand out. My hope is the 138 will have much more visual effect than the 69.

Thanks again!!

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks again for all the advice guys. Wish you had been the salesman I worked with.

I think I will try and stick with the 138 for now. I have only used 69 so far and don't know what the 138 will look like or how much the stitching will stand out. My hope is the 138 will have much more visual effect than the 69.

Thanks again!!

If you want the top stitches to stand out in thin leather (or cloth), you must use a topstitch thread. This is similar to button thread. It is a heavy weight but soft thread that still forms nice tight knots inside the material. Wawak is your friend when it comes to all tailoring supplies, like this type of thread. You can test out button or topstitch thread by visiting your local Joann Fabrics' sewing department. Don't say anything about sewing leather or you'll lose the sales people. Just say you want a heavy topstitch or button thread that can be used in quilts, jeans, or overcoats. They understand that concept.

You may want to try using the same construction of thread, but a size thinner, in the bobbin.

[BMW]

Thanks Wiz!

I am an embroiderer by trade and know Rayon and Poly for the embroidery business. Leather is new to me.

Do you mean to not use bonded nylon?

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks Wiz!

I am an embroiderer by trade and know Rayon and Poly for the embroidery business. Leather is new to me.

Do you mean to not use bonded nylon?

If you are sewing into thin, soft temper leather, button or topstitch thread will hold it just fine. A lot, but not all, of the vests and jackets I repair are sewn with heavy polycore thread, not nylon. That said, 95% of my sewing is done with bonded nylon thread. I have machines set up with different sizes of thread. I switch machines to change thread sizes. All I change on most of my machines is the color of the thread. Most of my machines have thread stands holding 4 or 5 cones in different colors.

FYI: Bonded nylon thread is rated by its tensile strength. B69 is 11 pounds. B92 is 15 pounds. B138 in 22 pounds and thus. Dopuble the size, double the breaking strength. You also get bigger lockstitch knots once you exceed #69 thread. At #207, the knots are well over a half millimeter in folded diameter. Black bonded nylon is usually double dyed and even tougher to fold into small knots.