Just Ruined My Project

[Spaceblues]

I've been lurking for a while and just joined after ruining a belt I was making for my son. I just got into leatherworking and bought a beginners kit from Tandy. I did the rounders, key fob, and coin purse and was feeling pretty good - for a beginner anyway. When it came to doing the belt I got a pattern instead of using the one in the kit and talked to the Tandy store about dyeing it.

They told me to use black dye on the background then Saddle Lac the belt lightly. Then use the Eco Flo dark brown antique on the belt after the Saddle Lac dried overnight. Finish with Leather Sheen. Well, I did all that and it was a disaster. I've attached a photo here. It basically left it all looking natural and then left a bunch of tiny black dots all over the belt. I wanted the belt to be dark brown with a black background and light highlights.

I'm so disappointed because my son was so excited to have this belt. Now it's ruined. I've watched Bruce Cheaney's video on antiquing leather and his end result is nowhere near what this turned out as. Instead of sulking about this I'd like to learn from the mistake so I can do it right the next time. Anyone have some advice for a complete newbie? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks for reading.

[Dwight]

If I did something like that, . . . tool first of course.

Dip dye it the overall color I wanted, . . . allowing that it would be the lighter color, . . . as the stampings would take the dye darker. Let that dry completely.

Then I would to the background in black. Let it dry completely.

I would then give it two light coats of Resolene, . . . cut 50/50 with water.

All in all you need 4 products: brown dye (I'd use saddle tan), . . . black dye (black oil base, . . . NOT USMC black), . . . Resolene, . . . and water.

I would also be very much inclined to take an old washrag with some Feibings thinner on it, . . . and rub that belt until I got the most of those black specks off of it, . . . or I ruined the belt completely.

Their thinner has saved my bacon a couple times, . . . taking stuff off that did not belong, . . . even after it was finished. You will not lose anything by trying, except the $5 for the 4 oz bottle of thinner.

May God bless,

Dwight

[TomG]

Yeah. I agree with Dwight.. But I think you said you wanted a dark brown with light highlights. I can only assume that you want the highest parts of the design lighter?

First, understand that you are mixing acrylic sealers with water based antiquing and who knows what black dye. I never use Saddle Lac for a resist, which is what you are trying to do. If you want the tops lighter here's how I'd do it.

I would use Neutral Leather Balm with Atom Wax and a block dye technique to quickly put a thin layer of LB on the peaks. Let it dry. Do it a second time. Again... Light coat applied quickly. Let it dry.

Then I would use a sponge and medium brown oil dye and apply the dye in a single stroke as much as possible. Then quickly use a pad of old tee shirt the rub across the strap to knock off the excess. You don't want to flood it or it will dye those peaks from the bottom up.

Let this dry.

Then I'd use a brush to apply the black oil dye.

Let it dry.

NOW you can saddle lac it lightly.

I'd forget the leather sheen. Hate the stuff, but lots of people use it..

Get you another strap and try again if Dwights cleaning tip doesn't fix it.

[Spaceblues]

Thanks for the info. Still brand new so I'll research what y'all said. Hopefully I can get some thinner this weekend so I can give that a go.

The steps I saw in that Bruce Cheaney video on antiquing were:

Neatsfoot oil

Two coats Tan Kote

Eco Flo antique gel

Another coat of Tan Kote

The result was beautiful so I may try that next time and try for the more complicated resists later down the road.

[gigi]

I think it's safer to test all this steps first on a small piece of leather from the same hide/batch; let it dry completely between steps. Buff the leather.

The results also varies depending on the tanning process and quality of the leather.

I also have a question: what finish it's recommended for the flash side of the leather?