Cutting even straps

[Maeshin]

Well, I recently acquired a strap cutter, figuring that it would speed up my projects a bit, but rather than speeding them up it seems to be slowing them down. I'm not sure what I am doing incorrectly, but the straps never turn out even unless I cut them really slowly (I could do it faster and more accurately by hand), and even then I can only cut them evenly if they are at least 4 or 5 oz (otherwise the leather slips, slides, and rolls up against the cutter, thereby messing up the line). Any ideas as to how to fix this?

[whinewine]

Well, I recently acquired a strap cutter, figuring that it would speed up my projects a bit, but rather than speeding them up it seems to be slowing them down. I'm not sure what I am doing incorrectly, but the straps never turn out even unless I cut them really slowly (I could do it faster and more accurately by hand), and even then I can only cut them evenly if they are at least 4 or 5 oz (otherwise the leather slips, slides, and rolls up against the cutter, thereby messing up the line). Any ideas as to how to fix this?

What strap cutter do you have? Some are total junk, some are quite decent. Some are fine for one job & not for another. And what are you cutting, & what weights? For example, thin garment & thin, soft temper veg-tan is better cut using a straight edge & rotary (olfa) knife...

It really helps to know what you're trying to cut before giving an answer.

[Andy]

I use a strap cutter for my slings/belts. Sometimes I have to put some support for the hide on the open end of the cutting machine to support the rest of the hide from making it turn (one way or the other). I have a "L" shaped table that I move around to do this it surrounds the deck and back of the machine so I can feed the leather in smoothly. Sometimes I will split my hide into 3rds before making belts instead of splitting in half.

I can send photos if needed.

Andy

PS what brand cutter? Are the blades and spacers tightened down on the shaft? Blades touching the roller?

[Jordan]

Always start with a straight edge, always use a very sharp blade, always keep the leather tight to the cutter handle (like a fence on a tablesaw) that is what I have found works with the basic wooden strap cutter from tandy, also going slow helps. Oh yea make sure all adjusting nuts bolts handles etc are tight.

Edited January 28, 2008 by Jordan

[Maeshin]

What strap cutter do you have? Some are total junk, some are quite decent. Some are fine for one job & not for another. And what are you cutting, & what weights? For example, thin garment & thin, soft temper veg-tan is better cut using a straight edge & rotary (olfa) knife...

It really helps to know what you're trying to cut before giving an answer.

It is not a good quality cutter by any means ($20 wood one, not brand name or anything). It could well be that it is just a junk strap cutter, but I didn't have the money to put down on one of the $60+ ones, so I figure I'll have to make do. I am having a great deal of difficulty cutting 2-3 oz leather and less of a hard time cutting 5-6 oz leather. All of the leather that I am using is fairly pliable (generally a mellow temperment). Basically thin garment leather is what I am having the most trouble with (maybe that's why I'm having so many problems with it). Sorry I wasn't more specific to start with ^_^

[Maeshin]

I use a strap cutter for my slings/belts. Sometimes I have to put some support for the hide on the open end of the cutting machine to support the rest of the hide from making it turn (one way or the other). I have a "L" shaped table that I move around to do this it surrounds the deck and back of the machine so I can feed the leather in smoothly. Sometimes I will split my hide into 3rds before making belts instead of splitting in half.

I can send photos if needed.

Andy

PS what brand cutter? Are the blades and spacers tightened down on the shaft? Blades touching the roller?

^_^;; It sounds like you have a far better cutter than I do. There aren't any rollers, though now that I consider it, that would probably result in much better cuts. I just grab the portion that has already been cut and drag it through manually.

[Maeshin]

Always start with a straight edge, always use a very sharp blade, always keep the leather tight to the cutter handle (like a fence on a tablesaw) that is what I have found works with the basic wooden strap cutter from tandy, also going slow helps. Oh yea make sure all adjusting nuts bolts handles etc are tight.

Well, the basic one's what I have ^_^ I did start with a straight edge on the leather, and the blade is new. The difficulty is keeping the leather from bunching up against the cutter handle (even when I go really slowly it still does that with the 2-3 oz leathers). I tightened down the bolts and such as much as I could without preventing the leather from fitting between the pieces altogether, but it doesn't seem to help much beyond preventing further bunching around the blade. I just don't know what to do with it : p

[rawhide1]

Maeshin

IMO ya need to get a good old osborne drawgauge. I mean a Osborne with wood handles not the all metal handles. I've picked them up off ebay for 50-60 dollars. Not very often but if you take your time and wait one will come along for that price. But you my also try sharping your blade just because it's new doesn't make it sharp. It still wont be easy to cut leather of that weight. But a good drawgauge and a very sharp blade will make it a heck of a lot easier.

Mike

[Luke Hatley]

Maeshin, get yourself a good cutting surface, check out the Offla cutting mat sold at the

fabric shops. while you are there take a look at the offla cutters.

Get a good straight edge.

Thin or light weght leather is not easy to cut with a Pull thru cutter.

you will like the roller cutter.

[bruce johnson]

Maeshin,

Are you trying to cut some time of leather like chrome tan vs. something more firm like vegtan or latigo? If so, any of the draw gauges or strap cutters are going to have some drag, stretch the leather, bunch up, and do what you are saying happens. Luke's suggestion of the roller knife and mat is right on for those flexible leathers. You can make templates from firm cardboard, printers press blankets or other relatively stiff material to use as cutting guides. Roll the blade right along the edge. For the stiffer leathers, the wooden strap cutters or draw gauges are the easiest for me.

I use razor blades in my wooden strap cutters. Cheap and pretty sharp to start with. I have found that the TLF ones are sharper and maintain their edges better than the Osborne bulk pack blades. For some really good ones, I go the platinum injector blades from the drug store. I use my wooden ones for the odd sizes. I have a few traditional draw gauges also, and the one associated "learning scar" on my knuckle most folks who use them can relate to. I use my old cavalry 6" for cutting blocks for reins. I have a wooden insert handled 4" also, both of those I put blades I got from Bob Douglas into. They are made by Bill Buchmann, and really are nice. Hold an edge and do the job. I had another draw gauge I was about to ebay away. One of the old local guys decided to take a liking to me. He told me he has gone to using utility knife blades in his. He only uses "Irwin" bimetal blades with the blue label. I haven't tried them in the other handles, but they fit exactly into my newer Osborne handle (keeping it now). I think a stropping would make them even better, but I am pretty impressed with them for now.

[Jordan]

The wood strap cutter I use is terrible for the thin stuff for that I use a straightedge and razor knife or a rotary cutter. Good luck with your quest, you will find a way that works for you just have to try a few different methods.

[Maeshin]

Thanks everyone ^_^ I appreciate all of your prompt and helpful replies. It looks like I will have to just go back to cutting the soft leather by hand and leave the strap cutter to the thicker leathers I work with. Good to know that I'm not using it improperly ^_^

[TZHunter]

When I needed precise thicknesses on thinner leather, I've had better luck by lightly glueing 2 pieces together, then cutting/splitting them with the cutter, then separating the 2 pieces. .. the thicker edge makes it less likely to curl.

[Maeshin]

When I needed precise thicknesses on thinner leather, I've had better luck by lightly glueing 2 pieces together, then cutting/splitting them with the cutter, then separating the 2 pieces. .. the thicker edge makes it less likely to curl.

Good idea ^_^ How do you get the glue off afterward though?

[TZHunter]

The only times I've done this (glueing together before cutting strips), I've always glued rough sides together and the rough sides would never be seen in the finished product so it didn't matter if a little glue residue was on the under side. . . for me glueing was also a little pain but it got the job done for that project. . . didn't know/think about the rotary cutters the others have suggested. .. they are pretty inexpensive and with a metal straight edge, should be able to cut pretty darn straight and pretty quick also on thin leathers. . . I'm gonna do this in the future rather than glueing together.

[Drac]

if you really really gotta stick 2 pieces together for whatever reason, instead of using glue use REMOVABLE double sided poster tape. that's what I use to hold a template down on some of my leather and it doesn't leave a residue on it. same if I'm using a template to paint something onto the leather. of course, I haven't used it on unfinished veg tan, so I'd check it on a piece of scrap first or have it stuck onto an area that's gonna get cut off. it does work on the underside of garment leathers though. at least the stuff that I use, anyway.

[HorsehairBraider]

Drac, that's a great idea to use 2-sided tape. I often have to cut extremly fine lace, so thanks for the tip!

[Maeshin]

if you really really gotta stick 2 pieces together for whatever reason, instead of using glue use REMOVABLE double sided poster tape. that's what I use to hold a template down on some of my leather and it doesn't leave a residue on it. same if I'm using a template to paint something onto the leather. of course, I haven't used it on unfinished veg tan, so I'd check it on a piece of scrap first or have it stuck onto an area that's gonna get cut off. it does work on the underside of garment leathers though. at least the stuff that I use, anyway.

That's a pretty good idea ^_^ I think I'll do that the next time that I need to cut around a template so it stops slipping and sliding everywhere. I seem to have a lot of issues with things sliding around when I'm trying to cut them : p